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View Full Version : Ruger 10/22 Take-Down, QD sling swivels


Whydah
June 30, 2015, 17:10
After getting home with my new purchase I was unpleasantly surprised to find that my new Ruger 10/22 Take-Down was void of a swivel stud in the butt stock.
Searching on the internet produced a number of suggestions on how to install a stud, but most were from people who had actually not done it.

Anyone install QD swivels on this model rifle? How did you do it?

Whydah
July 02, 2015, 08:46
Wow. That got a lot of responses!

The stock is hollow, which means that the normal method of drilling and inserting a swivel stud may not hold securely enough. Just was asking if this is a issue or have others found a way to do this installation.

MAINER
July 02, 2015, 13:14
Well shoot Whydah, Ruger engineers couldn't figure out how to put one on that stock and you only give us a day to come up with something? :sad:

How about a Hollow Wall Anchor? :D

OK, can you remove the Butt Plate and get access to the inside? A block of wood, plastic or aluminum could be J B Welded to provide additional support for a Swivel Stud.

Second method would be buying a Swivel Stud for wood stocks, but drill the hole undersize and ream a bit at a time until the Stud will thread itself in. Squirt some Epoxy into the hole for additional strength before installing the Stud.
I've used wood screws to attach stuff to plastic and it works quite well as long as the Orangutan doesn't get a hold of it.
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Swivel-1-Inch-Hardware/dp/B000VYQAZE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Last idea;
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2526335115/wilderness-tactical-giles-sling-ar-15-collapsible-stock-round-handguard-nylon

moonbat60
July 02, 2015, 17:08
I've got a 10/22 takedown as well. Bought two AR15 sling attachments by Blackhawk ( short strip of nylon webbing with a metal D-ring) and a sling with two hooks.

Done without any drilling, tapping, epoxying etc.

moonbat60
July 02, 2015, 17:10
Browse on rimfirecentral.com or so. They got a section dedicated to 10/22s, and a subsection for 10/22 takedown.

Lots of useful information and pictures.

Whydah
July 02, 2015, 17:47
The butt plate is epoxied on and can't be removed. I really would like standard swivels rather than webbing of some sort. I would like to use a 1" military sling of the kind Appleseed uses.

I think I'll try the epoxy method for the butt stock stud. As long as I don't butt stroke someone maybe the plastic is thick enough to hold. Thanks for that suggestion Mainer.

You would think Ruger would have worked all that out by now!

D P Six
July 03, 2015, 20:05
......

You would think Ruger would have worked all that out by now!

What Ruger has figured out is how to make a 10/22 for the least amount of money but turning wood stocks, trigger housings and assorted parts into plastic. They probably would make the barrels out of soda straws if they could figure a way to do it.

Whydah
July 04, 2015, 06:37
What Ruger has figured out is how to make a 10/22 for the least amount of money but turning wood stocks, trigger housings and assorted parts into plastic. They probably would make the barrels out of soda straws if they could figure a way to do it.

Point taken. Its not just Ruger, however. All manufacturers are doing the same thing regardless of what the product is.

I'm having to order replacement components - hammer, trigger, etc. - due to the trigger pull being pretty nasty. By the time I'm finished, I will have dumped several $100 more into this new rifle just to make it acceptable. Shouldn't have to do that!

MAINER
July 04, 2015, 08:28
For about $75 you can buy a BX trigger ass'y from Ruger. It doesn't rank up there with the fancy ones, but it's considerably better than stock and fairly cheap. I have only tried a sales display myself, it felt very nice and reviews are good.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/534496/ruger-bx-trigger-guard-assembly-ruger-10-22-25-30-lb-polymer-black

I agree, shouldn't have to buy parts to improve a new rifle. The 10 22 LVT model I bought did come with a better than usual Ruger "Target" trigger, but it's not as good as the BX.

Whydah
July 04, 2015, 20:15
I went ahead and ordered a Volquartsen set that included most everything including the bolt release and extended mag release. I have a set on an older 10/22 and it really improved trigger pull and overall operation. Since the take-down came with an extended mag release, I think I'll use the new one to replace the stock mag release on a 77/22. I used the bolt-gun in an Appleseed course recently and its a PIA switching mags using the stock release.

pjpjr
July 04, 2015, 21:13
Folding stock which allows for sling swivel attachment. Pricey but makes stock 10/22 takedown much better. Also make sure to add the 1" buttpad along with the front end forend. I have this set up and although $$$ very nice quality!!
http://www.agparms.com/agp-arms-10-22-folding-stock-kit-gen2/

moonbat60
July 05, 2015, 01:06
On my 10/22 I took the trigger system out of its housing and smoothened all the areas that were engaging with each other, and while doing this, I also took the bolt hold open piece and enlarged the hole, from a heart shape to a rounded oval. Pictures are available online.

It got me a somewhat better trigger and a crisp release.

The 10/22 is by no means a match gun, I see it more as a refined .22cal. copy of the old US carbine, .30, M1, of WW2 and Korea.

I love my takedown for the ease of cleaning and disassembly, and it is plenty accurate. Mine does a great job with CCI minimags and Target.

hangfire762
July 05, 2015, 09:29
I did what member MAINER referred to. I drilled the hole, squirted a little epoxy in the hole, then screwed the post in. It's held fine with no issues. For the front, I just ordered a barrel band that had a sling swivel attachment already provided.

MAINER
July 05, 2015, 10:04
I went ahead and ordered a Volquartsen set that included most everything including the bolt release and extended mag release. I have a set on an older 10/22 and it really improved trigger pull and overall operation.

I may end up doing this. Found a 18" 10/22 in a local GS for $150. It was a former Mall Ninja with a Chote stock, vented Hand guards and some kind of Flash Supressor attached to the end of the barrel. :facepalm: Turns out to have been made in 1991. Bought a walnut Carbine stock from Numrich with some nice tiger stripping on it. Now, I'm working on the trigger. I did the same as Moonbat and got all the parts nice and shiny which eliminated most of the creep and made it slicker, but it still take a fair amount of determination to get the thing to fire. :redface:

Was thinging of ordering the Volquartsen hammer kit, but will hold off until I ruin the one I have first. :D

catmguy445
July 05, 2015, 13:40
There's an even better solution for getting a light, crisp trigger pull in a 10/22 than putting either Volquartsen or Power Custom parts in it. Yes, they will give you a lighter trigger pull weight, but there will still be noticeable creep in the trigger, and the letoff will be somewhat mushy.

I know this because I've installed both VQ and PC kits in some of my 10/22's, and both makes resulted in a lighter, but creepy and mushy trigger. And both cost between $70-$80. Not my idea of an ideal solution, but better than a stock trigger.

Then I found out about Brimstone. You can send you trigger group to Brimstone, and for $38.50, he will do a Tier 3 trigger job that gives you a 2.5 pound trigger pull that is crisp and creepless. Check out his website at http://www.brimstonegunsmithing.com and take a look at the 10/22 section. I have no financial connection to Brimstone nor do I get anything from them for posting this. I just know that they do VERY good work for a reasonable price. Their turnaround time is also quick.

If you want a really super light target grade trigger, they can also do that. Their Tier 2 and Tier 1 trigger jobs cost more and include replacing parts in your factory trigger group, where the Tier 3 trigger job is just modifying the factory parts to make them work properly.

MAINER
July 05, 2015, 16:39
Thanks for the link, may just do that. I can get a PC Hammer for $30 and a Volq for $33, but as you say it will most likely give me the creeps. :facepalm:

Whydah
July 05, 2015, 17:11
$38.50 is a good price for the results you list.

I added aftermarket parts to an older 10/22 and the trigger pull is excellent without any 'creep'. The over-travel was adjustable, which may have helped a lot.

I did WESOG the bolt release in the older rifle. Neither 10/22 seem to be as accurate as my 77/22, however. A recent Appleseed resulted in many groups of less than 1/2" with some holes touching at 25M, even on the "400 yd." targets.

I'll check out he stock suggestions, but I do like the Multi-Cam on the factory stock.

TXscout
July 07, 2015, 01:00
These guys are semi local to me, have great parts, and do great work.

http://clarkcustomguns.com/parts-category/ruger-1022/

Whydah
July 09, 2015, 07:12
Installed the Volquartsen parts set into the Ruger TD this morning. I must say, the instructions leave something to be desired, but I got everything swapped out in about 30min. The trigger pull is now clean and crisp at @ 2 - 2.25lbs. BIG difference from the factory 'mush'. Still, the kit was overpriced, IMO.

I checked out the folding stock, TXscout. It won't work for me. I want to be able to use the military sling that I learned to use in Appleseed. I'll just install the swivel studs like we've discussed here and see how that works out.

MAINER
July 09, 2015, 09:40
Congrats on the crisp trigger. Which kit did you get? I am thinking of buying the Hammer alone. I agree that most of the aftermarket 10/22 stuff is overpriced, but the stuff seems to sell well, so can't blame them for charging what the market will bare.

I'm seeing good reviews on Ruger's BX trigger, and selling for around $70, it looks like a deal. Some shooters object to the composite Trigger ass'y, but at least one custom shop says they have better dimensional accuracy. I have one of each, but not long enough to form an opinion.

I am determined however, to whittle on the factory parts to success or failure. So far, I've only trashed the trigger by squeezing it just a little bit too much in a Drill Press vise. :facepalm:

Next, I'll work on the Hammer, wish me luck. :D

Whydah
July 09, 2015, 11:02
I bought their performance kit. Trigger assembly, hammer, extended mag release (didn't need it), new bolt hold-open, hammer spring, etc. Total $ was almost twice what the BX trigger costs. Anyway, I'm satisfied with the results. I'm not going to think too much on what it cost me.

MAINER
July 09, 2015, 13:41
I bought their performance kit. I'm not going to think too much on what it cost me.

Yeah, that works for me too! :biggrin:

MK ULTRA
July 13, 2015, 21:17
I put a butler creek folding stk on my 10-22. I like it better than the TD. It's also older and better made. I do need to work on the trigger.

MAINER
July 14, 2015, 08:54
I put a butler creek folding stk on my 10-22. I like it better than the TD. It's also older and better made. I do need to work on the trigger.

It's most likely easiest to drop a Power Custom or Volquarson hammer in, but I'm going to take a crack at it using the following instructions. There may be good reason not to do this, but I haven't discovered why yet. :whistling:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122386&highlight=cletus+hungwell

I figure that info from a dude with the handle of Cletus Hungwell must be true. What could go wrong? :biggrin: