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View Full Version : Question for Glock guys


Jaxxas
June 22, 2015, 23:05
My Daughter has a Glock 9 mm, not sure of the exact model but it looks similar to Model 26 and she loves it. Probably has 2-3000 rounds through it and it has been problem free during that time, zero issues. She thinks hubby bought it used for her off of GlockMeister. So they now live in Texas where her husband has joined the BP. They recently went to some underground (literally) shooting range combination pharmacy (drugs and guns?) in Corpus Christi and it pretty much started doubling with every 2nd or 3rd trigger pull. Doubling, not tripling or full auto. So they took it to the range guy who basically told them that people are known to 'shave' the trigger in order to make it an 'automatic'! I told her it was much more likely somebody tried to smooth or lighten the trigger with some failed WECSOG. She thought the guy was very knowledgable and was being fairly straight up with them. He fixed it for them, don't know what he did, but he is a stand up guy, didn't charge 2 VETS, one a Purple Heart for his services!

I know F'all about Glocks (or most anything), so what say ye? Bad trigger job or full auto attempt?

gunplumber
June 23, 2015, 07:45
Sounds like someone tried to smooth the trigger pull bu reducing the height of the striker dog-leg. I think this is foolish. Breaking the corners of it will reduce drag. Can polish, but but maintaining full engagement depth with the cruciform is important.

I suppose the problem could be on the bottom end as well, something causing the cruciform to rise up erratically on trigger release.

The only full auto I know of adds a trip that strikes the cruciform, forcing it down on slide closure. My full auto also uses a cross-button to switch between semi and full. Without it, it's full auto only.

This is a factory 18, not my converted 17. https://youtu.be/Arp6JvzmFTU?t=50

VALMET
June 23, 2015, 07:55
GP likely knows more about what could cause that than most of us here. You may also want to contact some of the folks over at Glocktalk as some of them will likely have some good input as well.

notfrommt
June 23, 2015, 08:25
I was having that exact issue with a Ghost Disconnector on a G20. Turns out giving it a thorough cleaning fixed it.

Jaxxas
June 23, 2015, 10:17
Thanks Guys, I'll pass it on.

Cool video GP!

W.E.G.
June 23, 2015, 10:28
Glad it got fixed.

For what a Glock is supposed to be, the is no reason to dick with the trigger.

If you want a "precision" pistol, buy one that was designed that way.

Glock is a "battle pistol" (if there is such a thing).

douglas
June 26, 2015, 14:34
Hey Jaxxas,
That would be Nichols Pharmacy. They are located in my area of operations while at work. Good solid folks to deal with. They have lots of high end black rifles for sale. I wander in there once in awhile just to drool on their merchandize. They are also stocking dealers for Glock, Sig, H@K, Beretta, and Nighthawk semi-custom 1911 pistols. Great place to fondle the newest pistols on the market. The only negative thing about them is that they don't sell used firearms. Not enough floor space to keep them there.
http://www.nichols-guns.com/
The pharmacy has been around forever, they added the indoor range and gun sales area onto the original pharmacy about 2 years ago. Great business idea as a lot of family owned/operate pharmacies are struggling to stay in business competing against the likes of Walgreens, CVS, Walmart, and the other big box stores.

Impala_Guy
July 14, 2015, 20:19
What GP said. First Glock 17 I bought at a gun show used would double or sometimes fail to catch the trigger bar at all. This only led to some self congratulatory back slapping as a 1911 guy who was right all along about that plastic widget.

Then I took it down to see how it actually worked. Somebody had thinned down the engagement on the striker and the normal slide to frame play combined with the vibration during the firing cycle would cause the striker to release when the slide hit home. Sometimes the trigger bar would pop and slide under striker and fail to fire at all. It was that bad. The gun was completely useless but all it needed was a new striker and its fired 1000s of rounds since.

Most of the G's trigger pull weight is from compressing the striker spring anyway, not releasing it. That's the distinctive second stage. When taking a 25 - 50 yard precision shot, I treat it the same way I would the trigger on my 1917 US Enfield rifle...take up that long first stage, then take your sight picture and fire.

I like my 1911s and Smiths, and the Block inspires only a fraction of the pride of ownership. Like the M4, its ugly, has the aesthetics of a fat chick on a unicycle, and I wouldnt pay more than $500-$600 for either. They're both also lightweight, accurate, reliable, and eminently practical. When I'm out in the boonies chopping firewood or setting up a tree stand, the 1911 is back home in the safe and I'm packing Tupperware. But its still a . 45 ACP.

Jaxxas
July 14, 2015, 21:36
Hey Jaxxas,
That would be Nichols Pharmacy. They are located in my area of operations while at work. Good solid folks to deal with. They have lots of high end black rifles for sale. I wander in there once in awhile just to drool on their merchandize. They are also stocking dealers for Glock, Sig, H@K, Beretta, and Nighthawk semi-custom 1911 pistols. Great place to fondle the newest pistols on the market. The only negative thing about them is that they don't sell used firearms. Not enough floor space to keep them there.
http://www.nichols-guns.com/
The pharmacy has been around forever, they added the indoor range and gun sales area onto the original pharmacy about 2 years ago. Great business idea as a lot of family owned/operate pharmacies are struggling to stay in business competing against the likes of Walgreens, CVS, Walmart, and the other big box stores.


Interesting reinvention of themselves! Good on them! Thanks for the info!




What GP said. First Glock 17 I bought at a gun show used would double or sometimes fail to catch the trigger bar at all. This only led to some self congratulatory back slapping as a 1911 guy who was right all along about that plastic widget.

Then I took it down to see how it actually worked. Somebody had thinned down the engagement on the striker and the normal slide to frame play combined with the vibration during the firing cycle would cause the striker to release when the slide hit home. Sometimes the trigger bar would pop and slide under striker and fail to fire at all. It was that bad. The gun was completely useless but all it needed was a new striker and its fired 1000s of rounds since.

Most of the G's trigger pull weight is from compressing the striker spring anyway, not releasing it. That's the distinctive second stage. When taking a 25 - 50 yard precision shot, I treat it the same way I would the trigger on my 1917 US Enfield rifle...take up that long first stage, then take your sight picture and fire.

I like my 1911s and Smiths, and the Block inspires only a fraction of the pride of ownership. Like the M4, its ugly, have the aesthetics of a fat chick on a unicycle, and I wouldnt pay more than $500-$600 for either. They're both also lightweight, accurate, reliable, and eminently practical. When I'm out in the boonies chopping firewood or setting up a tree stand, the 1911 is back home in the safe and I'm packing Tupperware. But its still a . 45 ACP.

Thanks Impala, I will pass it on!

tac-40
July 22, 2015, 15:36
Another thing I have seen is the introduction of oil or other lubricants into the striker channel. This causes a buildup of burnt powder, dust, grit etc. This build up can interfere with the movement of the striker. It can keep it from moving forward to fire the pistol or keep it from moving back causing a slam fire.