View Full Version : Kit Build Parts ID help

May 31, 2015, 20:41
I've had a Imbel on Coonan Type 3 FAL for a little while and have had a bear of a time getting it to cycle. I've posted a few times about the gun in the past and run through a number of possible fixes from recoil springs, gas plug, and just about every other fix people could suggest.

I had the opportunity to meet with a great guy at my club who has a ton of experience with FALs to take a look at what the problem might be. We tore the gun down and he checked the gas block, headspacing, gas plug, and heavily lubed the gun. Still, the gun fires, cycles barley just enough to reset the trigger, but no ejection. So he has offered to take a peek at it at his office sometime where he can get the right tools to get a better read on what is happening.

When I told him that this gun was built on an Imbel parts kit he didn't think that the parts were Imbel. I had bought this kit over 10 years ago from someone advertising the kit as an unissued Imbel kit. The parts all appeared to have the same finish and went together easily. However, he saw parts on the gun that he thought were made by different manufactures. So in order to pick up a spare gas plug or other parts, I'd like to know what I have. I just have a few questions:

1) Is this an Imbel kit, a parts kit from a different manufacturer or a number of parts from different manufacturers?

2) The person looked at the muzzle brake kind of funny and pointed out an issue with the condition of it. I took a close up of it to ID it and to get an opinon if this is something normal or should I replace it.

Let me know if additional pictures would help:



May 31, 2015, 21:00
Lower is Steyr, Lock lever is wrong for a Steyr lower.....functional but a sign that internals may not be Steyr, selector is Steyr, Carry handle is Imbel. Pix don't tell much else. Lock lever may be Argy, Combo device is likely Imbel, hand guard is likely Imbel too.

May 31, 2015, 21:31
Is your trigger cracked?

May 31, 2015, 21:32
That is pretty much what he said about the lower. I'm wondering if I got a bunch of parts that were parkerized at one point to build a gun. What other pics might help in the ID?...With the uncertanty of the origin of the parts, I might just have a really good FAL smith take a look at this rather than put this gent at my club through a nightmare.

May 31, 2015, 21:34
Trigger isn't cracked actually....it is a stray dog hair that stuck to the CLP I used. It was raining today and I wanted to get something on the surface of the gun to avoid rust.

June 01, 2015, 13:07
Have you pulled your butt pad off and removed the recoil springs from the guide tube in the bust stock? If they are covered in crud, cosmolene, grease, etc, your rifle may be having a hydraulic lock when it operates. Works fine when hand cycling but not while shooting. Clean the guide tube while you are at it.

Looks good for a FrankenFal.:wink:

June 01, 2015, 19:01
I've pulled of the handgaurds this evening and there are no markings on the barrel that I can find. I've posted a pic of the front gas block and regulator ring. The gent I was working with said that it was unusually easy to turn. He also thought I had an STG gas plug. I can post a pic of it out of the gun if needed.

Tac40: I've replaced the recoil spring with a DSA spring set. I'll give cleaning out the tube a try though.


June 01, 2015, 23:12
Is your gas plug in the A position? The A or notch should be at the 12 o'clock position. If it isn't then you are in the grenade position which stops the bolt from cycling.


Picture taken from the ARS website

June 02, 2015, 06:19
Hi Tac40...I've made sure the gas plug is in the A position...even flipped it around on purpose to fire it in G. Here is what I've done so far:

1) , I have screwed the gas regulator sleeve all the way forward and the gun does not cycle on any setting (1-7).

2) I have checked and the gas plug and set it to A...I actually experimented and set it to G and fired it and got the expected results of not cycling.

3) Installed New Recoil springs from DSA. They were actually about 3 inches longer than the springs in the gun, but went in fine.

4) Lubed rails and everything seems to be cycling fine.

5) Made sure gas tube pins are at 4 and 8 o'clock

6) The gas piston is traveling fine in the receiver and gas tube...no apparent damage to the piston as well.

7) I've used the gas plug that was in unissued condition and it was bottom was shinny when I first used it.

8) Threads on the gas tube seem to be OK...I don't see any threads that are deformed.

9) Pulled the front sight and had the gas port checked to see if it is alligned correctly. We didn't have a correct size drill bit to see if the port is open enough. However the person I was working with eye balled it and felt like it was pretty much OK and felt I was getting enough gas.

I notice when I fire it, the gun does not cycle but the hammer resets, which seems weird. I fire a round then pull the trigger again and hear the hammer fall and hit the firing pin.

I've noticed some residue build up on the end of some of the channels on the gas regulator sleeve particularly on numbers between 2 and 4. I'll clean out the tube the butstock tonight to see if there is any obstruction. I was wondering if that there must be a mismatch of parts in the lower that is screwing up something just enough to keep it from cycling.

June 02, 2015, 08:30
What you are describing is the bolt is extracting the empty, but not far enough to eject it, but enough to reset the hammer. Then the bolt slams the empty back into the chamber.

When you pull the regulator off, make sure the gas tube retaining pin is installed. I have had them fall out as I was mucking about trying to get the regulator screwed on. Also, make sure your gas tube is screwed all the way down and the slots in the end align with the gas port.

Check your piston to see if it moves freely in the tube. Take the spring off and tilt the rifle up and down about 45 and see if the piston slides back and forth all of the way.

June 02, 2015, 13:04
Going along testing the gas piston. Pull the bolt back and let it lock back.
Drop the gas piston into the gas tube with the spring out. Make sure it comes cleanly through the hole into the receiver. If not you may have a bent gas tube or a carbon build up.

June 09, 2015, 20:58
Tried a few more things and the piston is moving freely. I was taking things appart for more pictures wanted to give folks a look at the gas plug and lower to see if there is anything that doesn't look right in the picture that would be causing the function problem.