View Full Version : Mauser Cocking piece

April 13, 2015, 07:43
Well this is interesting - I have had a Mauser 98 pattern that was modified to use 7.62x39 ammo feeding from WASR mags. Shoots good, not much kick, cheap ammo, so got a lot of use.

Took it out to a meet up to let Dave's kids shoot it along with my other low kickers (.357 Puma, .223 Ruger#3, assorted 22LR) and had some issues.

If you loaded it gently it acted normally - if you work the bolt briskly the
firing pin would sometime go to half cock. After I got home - detail cleaned it
and figured the Timney trigger must have moved - so no manual went on
you tube found video's - followed along - actually made my trigger worse but it still didn't fix my problem.

Called up Timney (they in my neck of the woods) - they said bring it on by and they would look at it. So I did - they gave it a little more sear engagement and they tested it at 2 lbs - I said raise to 2 1/2 pound release which he kindly did.

Took it out and test fired it and after 10 shots or so it started doing it again!
I went back to the house and looked at everything which looked OK - then I went and got another mauser bolt - took it down and removed the cocking piece and then replaced it on the bolt that was having trouble - test fired it this weekend and it's working fine now - but I went to put the cocking piece from the troubled bolt onto the turkish bolt and it won't go - I'm guessing mfg tolerance stack is working against me, but this is the first time I've run into it with mauser bolts.

Anyone else ever seen this? :facepalm:

April 23, 2015, 16:35
Anyone else ever seen this? :facepalm:

Not exactly the same problem, but similar. You have to keep in mind that Mauser 98s were made by more manufacturers in more countries over more years than any rifle before or since (with the possible exception of the AK-47). As a result, parts interchange will never be 100%, especially when it comes to trigger / sear / cocking piece / safety function, where the interaction and precise fit between parts is the most critical. Not only are you more likely to encounter tolerance stack there, but other problems caused by wear, non-factory modifications, and subtle design differences that can throw things off. The miracle is that most combinations of Mauser 98 parts work together at all, which I consider a testimony to the brilliance of the design.

Having said that, over the years of working on Mauser 98s I have ended up with an wide assortment of fire control parts that I can choose from, until I find a combination that works smoothly and safely together (basically just a lot of swap and trial). Timney triggers are pretty much the standard aftermarket choice and give you some good adjustment points that can overcome a lot of the "slop" seen with a typical surplus action. However, I have found that they don't always work with some cocking pieces, so I end up just swapping them around until I find one that works.

For whatever reason, I've often had good luck with pre-war Czech-made CZ cocking pieces (marked with a circle-Z stamp) with aftermarket triggers (Timney, Jaeger, Bold, etc); they generally seem to have more consistent alignment and a crisper edge where they contact the sear when compared to other surplus parts. Depending on the trigger and safety combo being used, you may also want to look at using a commercial Mauser cocking piece (FN, Mark X, or Parker-Hale) with a flat bottom edge rather than the inverted "V" shape found on military cocking pieces; the contact edge of the commercial ones often seem to align better with the sear on adjustable triggers.