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View Full Version : Ruger 22 issues,,,,or what to try next.


yovinny
February 05, 2015, 11:35
Talking about the CZ452, finally got me off my ass to try out the new ruger I had acquired.
It's a bolt action ruger american 'varmint special'. Should still be viewable under 'specials' at the whittakers link in the CZ thread.

Bolt action, uses 10/22 mags, has a 18" semi-bull threaded barrel, oversize bolt handle, rugers lacking attempt at a savage type 'accu-trigger', all in a green tupperware stock.

Put it together with a known good burris 3-9 in leupold rings, and the damn thing throws fliers at 50yds.

Checked everything was tight (actually got out and used the torque wrench for the 35 IP spec on the stock bolts) checked the crown, checked bolt nose wasent hitting barrel, checked everything I could think of.
Mounted a brand new leupold 3-9 in brand new leupold rings,,,Same result.

Shoots good 5rd groups,,,,sometimes. Sometimes goes 6-8 good shots, sometimes throws first shot, but havent got through 10 shots yet without throwing a flier and inch away. No pattern as to 'where' the flier goes, it just goes.

Anyone heard of issues or have experience with these ? Thoughts appreciated, as i'm out of ideas except to call ruger....TIA

Cheers, YV

1911Ron
February 05, 2015, 11:44
How is the barrel attached to the action, is it like the 10/22s?

fnogger
February 05, 2015, 12:46
What ammo are you using? Just for giggles, spend the $$ on some Ely Tenex, Lapua Center-X, RWS R50, etc. Or even some of the low end target ammo like SK Std+ or SK Rifle Match (same as Wolf MT and ME), Norma TAC-22 or Norma Match-22 (the norma is rebranded RWS offerings).

SAFN49
February 05, 2015, 13:11
I had a Ruger 10/22 that had a similar issue. Every once in a while it would damage/shave lead off the bullets nose while feeding. Are you seeing any lead shavings in the action?

yovinny
February 05, 2015, 14:10
Ammo,,,I've tried cci mini mag, cci stingers, rem blue label target and some promo fed or win I had loaded in some mags already..
All about the same, the stingers actually shot the best, had some 5rds into under 1/2" od hole.
Did'nt notice any lead shavings, I'll keep an eye though...
I believe barrel is just cross pinned to the action. It has a V milled notch that sits into a matching V steel block in the plastic stock. Also has a round rear block it sits on, but I believe that one is plastic.

I looked at the targets again at lunch and I believe there actually is a pattern I must have missed earlier. It seems none of the fliers are 'Higher' than the group itself. In other words, their all from like 3 O'clock to 9 O'clock position.

Thanks :)
Cheers, YV

catmguy445
February 06, 2015, 00:16
Vinny,

I have the same rifle that you do. It's a Distributor Exclusive, ordered/sold by Sports South, and at least up through December, almost nobody, including a Ruger VP that I e-mailed to ask a question about where to get one, knew what it was or where to buy one. I finally got mine from Bud's Gun Shop in KY. For the rest of you guys, the rifle is called a Ruger American Rimfire Predator, and the Ruger model number is 8334. Everything I've read about them on Rimfire Central are raves about how accurate they are.

I haven't shot mine yet. I ordered a Vortex Crossfire II 4-12x40 AO scope for it, which has been delayed in shipping by weather in the midwest. As soon as I get the scope mounted (and it stops raining and/or snowing here), I'll find out about the accuracy and post results here. I did put a gauge on the trigger, and mine breaks at 3 pounds even, with no real creep and virtually no overtravel. I like the trigger a lot, even if Ruger did copy it from Savage.

The only thing I can think of that would tend to give you horizontal flyers like you described is possibly how you're working the trigger. Do you have your finger straight across the trigger and are using the center of the pad of the first joint of your trigger finger to press the trigger, or do you have your finger curled around the trigger when you apply pressure to it? Believe it or not, that will make a difference in your group.

Other than that, or possibly ammo (and from what you said, it doesn't sound like an ammo problem), the only thing I can think of is that your barrel has a tiny bit of side to side play, but that's kind of doubtful because of the way Ruger installs the RAR barrels. However, it's not impossible, even if it's unlikely. There's also a possibility that your stock module isn't completely tight. Check to make sure that the rear sling swivel stud is screwed down nice and snug. If your stock module is a little loose, that could affect your group size.

Let us know what you find.

Cheers,
Zeke

yovinny
February 06, 2015, 08:44
Guess I got the model name wrong, my bad, it did'nt matter much to me.

I'll have to look closer at the 'stock module', I did'nt notice any movement there, but I havent really looked or payed any attention to it either.

I havent put a gauge on the trigger, but I did follow the instructions and tried to turn the pull weight down. Adjustment did'nt seem to matter or do much, trigger still seemed heavy with creep, but not much over travel.... While it's a decent trigger, it's about terrible compared to the pair of savage rim fire's I have with accu-triggers. Those both break much lighter and like glass.

While this rifle is very light and I'm far from flawless, my bench technique is usually pretty good. I've shot bench rest and lots of other stuff off the bench for years. I also havent had any flier or other issues with the AR blackout that I've also been spending lots of time testing lately....And it's trigger is even worse :facepalm:

13* here today... I'll try to look better at the rifle later, but I probably wont be getting any trigger time in. Thanks for the info :)

Cheers, YV

1911Ron
February 06, 2015, 11:01
Ammo,,,I've tried cci mini mag, cci stingers, rem blue label target and some promo fed or win I had loaded in some mags already..
All about the same, the stingers actually shot the best, had some 5rds into under 1/2" od hole.
Did'nt notice any lead shavings, I'll keep an eye though...
I believe barrel is just cross pinned to the action. It has a V milled notch that sits into a matching V steel block in the plastic stock. Also has a round rear block it sits on, but I believe that one is plastic.

I looked at the targets again at lunch and I believe there actually is a pattern I must have missed earlier. It seems none of the fliers are 'Higher' than the group itself. In other words, their all from like 3 O'clock to 9 O'clock position.

Thanks :)
Cheers, YVCould the barrel be loose and move side to side?

catmguy445
February 07, 2015, 12:42
Guess I got the model name wrong, my bad, it did'nt matter much to me.

I'll have to look closer at the 'stock module', I did'nt notice any movement there, but I havent really looked or payed any attention to it either.

I havent put a gauge on the trigger, but I did follow the instructions and tried to turn the pull weight down. Adjustment did'nt seem to matter or do much, trigger still seemed heavy with creep, but not much over travel.... While it's a decent trigger, it's about terrible compared to the pair of savage rim fire's I have with accu-triggers. Those both break much lighter and like glass.

While this rifle is very light and I'm far from flawless, my bench technique is usually pretty good. I've shot bench rest and lots of other stuff off the bench for years. I also havent had any flier or other issues with the AR blackout that I've also been spending lots of time testing lately....And it's trigger is even worse :facepalm:

13* here today... I'll try to look better at the rifle later, but I probably wont be getting any trigger time in. Thanks for the info :)

Cheers, YV

From what you've said, it really does sound like there's some kind of problem with the rifle, not the shooter. You could try removing the tension spring in the trigger housing that controls pull weight (there are directions on how to do that in the Ruger American Rimfire section of Rimfire Central in the Ruger - Other forum) to reduce the trigger pull weight. As for the horizontal stringing, I'm as baffled as you are. As a last resort, sounds like contacting Ruger might not be a bad idea.

ALL FAL
February 07, 2015, 23:00
Pinning barrels into actions: SUCKS.

Any makers still do it right and screw them in?

I bought an Anschutze once, brand new, found the barrel pinned and sold it.

yovinny
February 08, 2015, 08:24
I've gone over it all again last night, havent found very much.

I'll have to check out the trigger spring info mentioned, it could use some help.

I was mistaken earlier, both front & rear bedding blocks are metal and seem to fit well. I did find a small burr 'high spot' on the rear block that I cleaned up. But I dont think it was enough to cause what I'm seeing.

I'm starting to think maybe safn49 hit it, and it's shaving lead when feeding from the mag. The chamber lead-in seems sharp and could have been broken much better. Plus I've found a few small bright specs, that appear to be lead, when brushing out the barrel face & mag well.

I'm going to try it again and single feed it by hand, but it's been windy out here and I've had other stuff going on, so hopefully soon. Thanks again.

Cheers, YV

gunplumber
February 08, 2015, 08:49
Since Ruger 77/22s are stupid expensive for what you get, I was interested in a bolt action rifle taking 10/22 mags for shooting with a silencer. So After reading this thread I looked it up, and noticed the last line on the webpage says "threaded barrel models now available".

http://www.ruger.com/products/americanRimfire/

Almost got a 77/22 from my buddy in a trade, but then he traded it for a 10/22 MAG instead.

I don't understand why the 77/22 would cost much more than a 10/22. Maybe this new "American" will fill the gap. I just love the rotary mag.

yovinny
February 10, 2015, 10:52
Update; Found time to single load and fire a few groups.

Found two things...The fliers seem to have gone away, and single loading this thing is a major PITA through the tiny ejection port and mag well. I really need to correct the mag feeding/shaving lead issue before I can go much further.

I really dont want to pull the barrel and will post what I come up with when time allows me to dig further into this.

Cheers, YV

fnogger
February 10, 2015, 12:18
Update; Found time to single load and fire a few groups.

Found two things...The fliers seem to have gone away, and single loading this thing is a major PITA through the tiny ejection port and mag well. I really need to correct the mag feeding/shaving lead issue before I can go much further.

I really dont want to pull the barrel and will post what I come up with when time allows me to dig further into this.

Cheers, YV

I'd head over to rimfirecentral - they have an American dedicated sub-forum where they solve these types of issues. Personally I'd be checking w/ Randy @ CPC or Que (google for Que's Barrel service) to see what they can do.

yovinny
February 12, 2015, 09:40
On closer inspection, I found two feeding issues I'm going to address.

First is that when the chamber was chamfered, a small burr was displaced above the barrel face. It seems the best way for me to clean that burr and polish the chamfer better, is with the brass lap/compound method. I'll spin a lap to fit and hit what I want, mount it on a rod and tackle that through the action.
It dosent need much, probably just work a little by hand without power.

Second issue is the mag would probably work better if it released the bullet a little earlier and smoother. I'll pull a mag apart, get at it with the die files and stone it into submission. A single or maybe pair of 10rd dedicated mags is all I need, as I plan for this to be my new 4-wheeler/squirrel 22.

As it sits, if I work the bolt slowly & carefully, watching the round feed, I could probably get away with just using it as is.
With a little attention, it should be much better and not require that observation and extra care.

I also changed out the trigger spring with a much lighter one already. It made the trigger much better and removed the creep. While it seemed to work fine with the trigger spring just removed (the insert blade has a second spring) I feel the added safety is better for a field rifle. I did'nt even stone any of the surfaces or edges in the trigger group, they all looked great. It's now well the equal of any accu-triggers I own.

All easy peasy stuff for anyone who's hands on with guns :)

Otherwise, I'm very pleased with how this rifle shoots, handles and looks in green,,,,IMHO, it's well worth the $265. price and I'm very glad I decided to give it a try.

If anyone finds themselves in the same boat and needs to borrow the lap when I'm done, drop me a line.

Cheers, YV