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View Full Version : Advice on chamfer


andresere
December 20, 2014, 11:42
Does this look about right for the plunger tube leg holes? I tried for about 1/3 of the thickness of the receiver.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll166/andresere/PTS2015_zps66b3c1e8.jpg (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/andresere/media/PTS2015_zps66b3c1e8.jpg.html)
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll166/andresere/PTS2003_zpsbfa0761b.jpg (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/andresere/media/PTS2003_zpsbfa0761b.jpg.html)


Here's how I did it. It's a 3.1MM diamond bit from Lasco. You have to cut about .25" off of the shank to get it to fit out through the in hole. Then I used a pin vise.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll166/andresere/PTS2002_zps2dcf2274.jpg (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/andresere/media/PTS2002_zps2dcf2274.jpg.html)

tdb59
December 20, 2014, 11:52
Looks pretty good.

What brand plunger tube are you using ?

I now only use Ed Brown's, as the studs are longer. After crimping they may have to be dressed slightly in the mag well, but they do stay in place.

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/frame-parts/frame-hardware/plunger-tubes/1911-auto-plunger-tube-prod1350.aspx



$.02


.

andresere
December 20, 2014, 11:57
That would be the one I have. It requires minor fitting of the gunrunner plunger tube staking tool. Unless I got a tool that was out of spec.

andresere
December 20, 2014, 16:24
While I'm kinda on the subject, I bought an AMSH. Looking closer, it has an extra hole. Can anyone tell me what this is? Never mind, I figured it out. A key for a mainspring housing lock. Can I still use this, or does it take a special plunger?
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll166/andresere/MSH006_zpsa66e1bf5.jpg (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/andresere/media/MSH006_zpsa66e1bf5.jpg.html)

SAFN49
December 20, 2014, 16:41
While I'm kinda on the subject, I bought an AMSH. Looking closer, it has an extra hole. Can anyone tell me what this is? Never mind, I figured it out. A key for a mainspring housing lock. Can I still use this, or does it take a special plunger?
]

You can use the standard plunger.

andresere
December 20, 2014, 16:44
You can use the standard plunger.

The plunger retaining pin on an RIA is too large for the hole on the Springfield MSH. Guess I will look further for an AMSH with lanyard loop.

andresere
December 22, 2014, 07:44
Here's how it ended up. The Gunrunner tool is awesome.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll166/andresere/together001_zps68b65bec.jpg (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/andresere/media/together001_zps68b65bec.jpg.html)
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll166/andresere/together003_zpsbc27a63b.jpg (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/andresere/media/together003_zpsbc27a63b.jpg.html)
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll166/andresere/together004_zps06a76fff.jpg (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/andresere/media/together004_zps06a76fff.jpg.html)

MAINER
December 22, 2014, 08:43
Neat job. :bow:

Any chance you have a Colt Thumb Safety on that RIA? That's a favorite style of mine.

andresere
December 22, 2014, 08:46
I don't think it is, unless "Atilla the Grinder" put it on before I bought it from him. This is why I switched frames. Old frame on top. It is lighter than the new frame, though. :rofl: Looking closer at these two, the original is a very early RIA frame. The new one is marked 1911A1-FS. What's the deal with the difference right in front of the feed ramp? The newer one has what looks like a T cut out, while the old one does not. :?

When I got it all back together, the grip safety didn't work, but would if you held up on it. Some searching on 1911.com and I took the sear spring out and bent the right leaf to TLAR. Put it all back together and it works fine. I know that headspace is a relationship between the lugs on the barrel and the grooves in the top of the slide, along with the barrel hood. But since the barrel is held by the slide stop pin, and this is a different frame, would that not affect headspace as well? Not trying to be an idiot, just asking a question.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll166/andresere/1911004_zps05942bed.jpg (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/andresere/media/1911004_zps05942bed.jpg.html)
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll166/andresere/1911003_zpsca549923.jpg (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/andresere/media/1911003_zpsca549923.jpg.html)

gunplumber
December 22, 2014, 10:08
very nice. It made my stomach turn when you brought the original frame over. All too common from those who have a Dremel, and more enthusiasm than skill. Maybe a candidate to machine out for a ramped barrel, but that's probably throwing good money after bad.

andresere
December 22, 2014, 10:28
very nice. It made my stomach turn when you brought the original frame over. All too common from those who have a Dremel, and more enthusiasm than skill. Maybe a candidate to machine out for a ramped barrel, but that's probably throwing good money after bad.

Thanks Mark, I wasn't looking forward to showing up out there with a dicked up plunger tube and asking you to fix it. :D I was nervous as hell, but it came out pretty good. As soon as I know if it's going to be reliable, I would like you to do an ARS Metacol 4 job on it.

I was thinking the same thing about the frame. A couple of people said to keep it and turn it into a dedicated .22, but this is a $119 frame to begin with. I have had a guy ask to buy it so that he could practice checkering on. That or a guy that is learning how to do an insert to fix pistols like this to begin with.

TerryN
December 23, 2014, 13:40
EGW makes a feed ramp insert for just such situations. Seems like it'd take longer to set the mill up for the job than the frame is worth, though.