View Full Version : Thinking of getting a suppressor

April 08, 2013, 10:12
So lately ive been toying with the idea of getting a suppressor. My local gun shop has lots of them for sale. But im trying to decide what i should put it on. One of my pistols, or one of my rifles. Does it matter what i put it on initially? What i mean is, once i install it on something, can i take it off and put it on something else? Or legally does it have to stay on one weapon? Im sure these are stupid questions, but i have never gone through this process and have just begun to look into it. I was thinking of getting a suppressor for my Beretta 96. Any thoughts on the subject would be appreciated.

April 08, 2013, 11:01
Ya can't really supress a supsesonic rifle all that much. It will still be pretty noisey

Definately get a supressor for a handgun and a supressor is a stand alone item and can go an any gun.

For optimal performance be sure to shoot a heavier bullit, one that is subsonic. For 9mm for example, most any ammo that has a 136gr bullet or heavier will be subsonic. My MAC 11/9 is very quiet with a can and heavier bullets. The damn bolt slapping back and forth is by far the loudest noise heard when I shoot it.

April 08, 2013, 11:32
So I was thinking about doing my .40 cal beretta 96 or possibly my C93 rifle in .223. I'm a total noob with this, so what brands are good and what should I stay away from? What do I have to buy to thread it onto my pistol? My C93 has a muzzle brake with a retaining Device, do I need a retaining device for the can if I decide to put it on there?

Is it like building a SBR where you buy the 200 dollar tax stamp?

April 08, 2013, 16:25
Get a suppressor which can be switched between as many firearms as possible. The $200 tax stamp is on the suppressor so getting one which will suppress many firearms is cost effective.

In my case I got a Knight's Armament Quick Detach suppressor for the 5.56mm round. I have a semi-auto. AR15 and a registered selective fire AR18 which it will suppress both effectively. They both can be shot without earmuffs - sounds like a .22LR going off. Since the bore diameter of the suppressor is 5.56mm, I have put Quicik Detach adapter on a S&W pistol and a Ruger 10/22 rifle also. When firing the pistol, the only sound heard is the slide slapping the rear of the frame and plop of the round hitting the dirt berm. The rifle is just a tad more noisey but ear protection is not needed when shooting .22LR with a suppressor.

A special suppressor is needed for semi-auto. firearms which have a barrel that recoils when fired. In a semi-auto pistol in which the barrel recoils, adding the weight of the suppressor to the barrel affects the dynamics of the operation cycle. There is a much larger mass which must be moved to the rear when the suppressor is attache. This will cause ejection problems and to be sure, the pistol is turned into a single shot pistol. (Look what the Air Force did to the M9 pistol on which they attached the suppressor.)

Several companies make special suppressor which will use some of the gas from the firing and use it to assist the suppressor and barrel to move to the rear, over coming the ejection/loading problem. However, these become "one gun" suppressors.

In my estimation, get a suppressor and put it on a firearm which does NOT have any barrel movement when fired. Most .22LR rifles and pistol have fixed barrels which make them ideal candidates for a suppressor. Any bolt action firearm would also work. Also, gas operated rifles such as the AR15 and AR18 make ideal suppressor platforms.

April 08, 2013, 17:13
Oh wow, i didnt know of that problem with using a suppressor and having cycling issues. Makes sense though. I dont own an AR15 anymore. Now im wondering what i should do to get the most bang for my buck. Hmmmm.... Would a semi auto HK be a good type of rifle for that?

April 08, 2013, 18:14
Oh wow, i didnt know of that problem with using a suppressor and having cycling issues. Makes sense though. I dont own an AR15 anymore. Now im wondering what i should do to get the most bang for my buck. Hmmmm.... Would a semi auto HK be a good type of rifle for that?

Rifle supressors are a different animal. They need to be made of steel/stainless steel to hold up to the much higher pressures of a rifle round. Most pistol supressors have an aluminum can with meybe the insides of SS etc.

There is something you might think of and something that I might do now that I know more. Get a Steel/SS can with a capacity of whatever PISTOL caliber you fancy and if it is heavy duty enough you can use it on anything. I have no pistol of larger bore than the 9mm and .357 so I (NOW) would get a STEEL/SS can that would handle the size of that bullet but still be strong enough to handle being put on the end of a rifle in 308 or 30-06. I think asking a can that was light enough to handle being on the end of a gun that fired 9mm but still strong enough to handle the 338 Lapua mag would be just to much. Yes, a can that would supress a 9mm would not supress a 308 nearly as good as a dedicated can that was built for a 308 would supress a 308 but than you can't really supress a 308 rifle. If money was no object then there would be a can for everything but for most of us, money is definately an object.

One can actually buy a supressor designed and built for the 50BMG but it is probably not practical to use it on any other gun.

April 08, 2013, 18:25
I can get a can that will work for any pistol round? Are suppressors not like barrels in that its chambered for something specific?

April 08, 2013, 18:49
I can get a can that will work for any pistol round? Are suppressors not like barrels in that its chambered for something specific?

Well, yes. You can get a can that will accomidate a 45 cal bullet and you can put that same can on a gun chambered in 9mm. The can will still supress that 9mm, it just won't supress that 9mm as good as a can that was built for a 9mm would.

Cans are usually threaded as per what caliber they are designed for. A can built for a 45ACP usually can not just be screwed onto the barrel of a 9mm. Adapters to adapt to just about every situation are available.

April 08, 2013, 20:32
Ohhhh. Ok. I'm learning all kinds of stuff. Haha. I appreciate the info

April 08, 2013, 21:32
The Beretta is a good suppressor host, but the .40 caliber is going to be an oddball. 99% of centerfire pistol cans are probably 9mm. You would think that the .40 would be a natural as the 180gr loads are all sub-sonic, but it's just not a popular round to suppress. The .45ACP is also naturally sub-sonic, but the larger bores are noisier than the 9mm's. Tilting barrel pistols of the Browning type will need a booster or LID(linear inertial device), but the Beretta style generally does not, unless you're using an abnormally heavy can.

Your second choice is also not a very good one. The HK 9x series are notoriously poor suppressor hosts. They get really nasty to fire once a suppressor is added; the suppressor holds enough pressure in the bore that the backblast from the chamber is extremely dirty and loud. You would want a fully locked action and the HK isn't it.

Pistols will generally need new(longer)barrels for threading, although the Berettas often have just enough muzzle to get by. Rifle barrels will generally need to be threaded specifically for the can,......FH threads are usually not a common size(excepting the 1/2x28 of the AR) and often not precise enough to prevent baffle strikes.

Also, you're going to need to talk with someone knowledgeable about suppressors in WA state. Last I knew, they were technically legal to own, but illegal to actually use. There was a push last year or the year before to allow their legal use, but I don't believe it passed.

Look into .22 cans,.......by far the easiest to do and best bang for the buck. I used to think that suppressing a .22 just wasn't worth the effort; not edgy enough. I was wrong. I've got lots of suppressors(I was a dealer for years). Rifle cans in .223 and .308 and integrals in .44Mag. Lots of pistol cans in 9mm and .45 along with a bunch of subgun cans. All my favorites are .22's. You really get to USE .22 cans. All the other stuff is pretty much for special occasions(and lots more work).

April 08, 2013, 21:41
I looked into that weird WA state law about owning but not being able to use a can. From what I've read it's been fixed so you can actually use one now. As for what I want to suppress, I guess I'll have to do more research. I only own FALs and hk style rifle at the moment (besides hunting type rifles) and that beretta is my only pistol besides a little Keltec .380. I'm thinking I should get something specifically with adding a suppressor in mind

April 08, 2013, 23:30
Locked breach pistols present a problem and only the blowback .22's suppress well. The centerfire blowbacks are a disappointment(I believe it's due to the relatively short case; adding a suppressor increases the pressure in the barrel when a blowback opens and there's an increased ejection port blast. Doesn't seem to affect the .22 as much).

The favored pistol models for suppression are the HK P9S and the Berettas. The HK's were easier to find a couple of years ago. The Beretta is the current go-to, but only in 9mm. My favorite is the Benelli B76, but those are now nearly impossible to find.

You can suppress Glocks and Brownings and such, but you need a LID to do it and that adds several hundred dollars and makes the whole package a couple of inches longer. Better to stick with what works.

The .22's are so much easier and cheaper,....both cheaper pistols and cheaper suppressors(even $100 .22 cans sound good)and they're so much more useful, I can't recommend them highly enough. There's really not that much more you can do with a suppressed centerfire, and it's going to cost at least 3x as much and be much more trouble procuring ammo. You don't need to know too much to do a good .22, but there are a hundred bad ways to do a centerfire. Rifle caliber stuff is similar. The same .22 can you put on your pistol will work fine on your .22 rifle(w/sub-sonic ammo,....the shorter pistol barrels are usually sub-sonic with typical bulk .22). Most first-timers are deeply disappointed with the noise of a full caliber rifle after spending nearly a grand to suppress it. Even suppressed, they're still loud. .22's, both pistol and rifle, can come very close to 'Hollywood' quiet.

April 09, 2013, 01:16
I agree with the above post. The simplest and best way to go is with a fixed barrel pistol. In addition to the 5.56mm QD suppressor which is made from Titanium, I have a small aluminium suppressor which is specifically made for .22LR. Again, I have multiple fixed barrel .22LR pistols onto which this suppressor will fit.

One has to ask, what are the reasons for getting a suppressed weapon? I can see getting a hi-power rifle suppressed for some who is a sniper and doesn't want to give his position away. But how much practical use would something like that be? If you can't hunt with it, what use is it? With a suppressed .22LR, you can practically shoot in your back yard with out upsetting the neighbors.

April 09, 2013, 09:59
Can you recommend a good .22 pistol and rifle for this?

April 09, 2013, 11:16
THE .22 rifle to have is the 10-22. Lots of mag-fed bolt guns for more money(for decent quality), but don't let anyone convince you that they're much quieter. Very hard to tell the difference for me. If you muzzle mount a can on a rifle, you will be shopping for sub-sonic ammo. All the bulkpak stuff will be super-sonic. I personally much prefer the integral suppressors since they look nicer, they're shorter overall, and they slow down the super ammo to sub-sonic, but it's not what I recommend for most people. If you're rich or in the business and transfers are free,......then go with the integrals. If you're starting out with one or two suppressors and trying to maximize the utility, go with a can. Most guys will tell you to spend as much as you're able on the suppressor and get the best available, but again, in .22 cans there's amazingly little difference between a $100 suppressor and a $500 suppressor. Again, I'm looking at it from my own perspective where the transfers were free and I bought up a couple dozen cheap cans,......and a few of the better ones. That worked for me, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend you go too cheap. As an individual it probably makes more sense to go with a more expensive can since you're paying the $200 tax either way and you're pretty much stuck with it for life. There's NO resale value in a used suppressor. Plan on having it buried with you.

Also, many people will insist that the suppressor be easily disassembled for cleaning. Yeah, CHEAP .22LR is dirty stuff, but I've never had any problems with decent quality ammo. Again, I have enough suppressors that I'm not likely to run 10,000rds through any particular one, but some guys do. For those guys it might be important.

The pistols are easy. The Rugers are good. The Brownings are good. I Like the old High Standards. All good quality guns; the Brownings and High Standards are particularly easy to clean and the HS generally have removeable/replaceable barrels, so they're easy to thread. One of the easiest is the Walther P22. All you need is a $40 thread adaptor, but in my opinion the guns is a throw-away POS. Still makes a nice suppressor host, but you won't be passing it down to your children. Look around,.......lots of pistols are available now factory threaded if you're looking to buy new.

Old, poor quality pic. Quite a few have been added. I've been sucking up and threading .22 pistols for several years.


April 09, 2013, 21:17
I am not an expert. I have two 9mm suppressors, one is integral to the firearm and pretty quiet. The other, a CAC9 I move between several firearms. With the right load in the right gun it is usefully quiet in 9mm, 38 spl (carbine) and .22 LR. IThe lead vapor from very rapid fire 22lr condenses inside and is nasty.

There are lots of good options for suppressors out there and most folks will have a favorite suppressor/firearm pair. I would suggest you look at Subguns.com. The site owner, Tom Bowers, is a very nice guy with fabulous customer service who will clean leaded suppressors for a reasonable fee. Do look at the video of his "wet" .45 can. Your local dealer may be just as good but I have had great experience with Tom and his product. He is from WA I think.

For general layman's knowledge, you can imaging cans work in three ways.
1. Muzzle gas expands into the volume of the suppressor, that reduces pressure and heat, gas exhausts m,ore slowly making less of a bang. Large volume can result in more suppression.
2. Gasses flow through small passages following a circuitous route, some gasses end up in dead end chambers and flow reverses increasing the time the muzzle gasses take to run through the suppressor and out the muzzle. Well designed baffle stacks result in more suppression.
3. Contact with the baffles or liquid cools the gasses and that decreases the volume and pressure. Wet can designs can be very impressive

There are other factors, changing the frequency of the sound waves to other frequencies that are harder to hear and even getting sound waves to go 180 degrees out of phase and cancel each other out but for most of us the first three explanations work pretty well.

Having said that, modern small volume suppressors can be more effective than older design large volume suppressors. Some suppressors work best with a particular caliber and load but almost all will reduce noise on other (smaller) To reiterate some important information given earlier. any handgun suppressor can be used on a rifle with pistol velocity loads but only rifle suppressors should be used with a full power rifle. Only suppressors designed for fully automatic fire should be used for fully automatic fire.

Good Luck, have fun.

April 09, 2013, 22:36
A lot of information to digest. Thanks for the replies. I think I'm going to get a .22 pistol and suppress it. Need to save up some money.