View Full Version : Rifle Headspace
March 12, 2002, 17:55
I have some C&R bolt action rifles that won't close on a go and no-go gauge. How safe is it to shoot these rifles? And how hard is it to fix?
March 12, 2002, 18:01
What kind of rifles? MN headspace can usually be changed by changing out the bolt head till you get one that allows HS to check good. Mausers, I believe, are a different deal.
Let us know.
March 12, 2002, 19:27
Originally posted by Stanley:
<STRONG>I have some C&R bolt action rifles that won't close on a go and no-go gauge. How safe is it to shoot these rifles? And how hard is it to fix?</STRONG>
Well first off you don't want it to close on a no-go guage. If it won't close on a go guage thats different, and a little unusual. If I were you I would take it to the range and see if it will chamber a round, if it will shoot it.
One thing, did you remove the extractor before you checked the HS? If not remove it and try again.
March 12, 2002, 19:30
Be sure the chamber is clean and free of any obstruction before you check headspace. It is very unusual that a bolt wouldn't close on a go gauge unless the rifle has been rebarreled.
March 12, 2002, 19:45
OK, Randy and I have talked about this but I would like some more opinions.
I understand that you are supposed to remove the extractor. What if you don't know how to remove the extractor. I bring to your attention the SKS and the SVT Tokerav rifle.
I have headspace gages for both of these calibers. I was unable to remove the extractor from the SKS and couldn't figure out how to remove it from the Tokerav. What I did was simply put the headspace gage under the extractor. Is the a good thing to do? They both headspaced OK doing this way.
March 12, 2002, 20:20
Do this at the range (not your basement).
Insert a live round in your mystery gun. Note how the bolt closes (or won't close). If it won't close, I don't think you need to be told not to shoot it.
If the bolt DOES CLOSE, measure the overall length with a caliper. Add a layer of tape to the bottom of the round. Measure again. Repeat until the bolt won't close. Do the math.
Make a decision as to how much slop in the chamber you can live with.
Isn't that what it comes down to?
March 13, 2002, 10:30
This is not that rare in the Turk model 38's. Bolts were removed from the rifle for storage. When issued a bolt was grabed from a pile for each rifle. If your guns are mausers, be sure to remove the firing pin assembly and extractor. Both can be done without tools and it only takes a second or two. If your headspace is short then see if it will chamber a round, if it soes then shoot it, if it doesn't then see about a replacement bolt.
March 13, 2002, 13:27
If your looking for opinions about removing the extractor I would say you should remove it. But I have heard of people using the method of sliding the HS guage under the extractor, and if your careful that will probably work.
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