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boomerdog1
January 18, 2012, 16:58
I picked up a "ban-era" DR200 a little while back. It has Ace stocks already on it and I wouldn't mind changing that stupid dummy muzzle device for something a bit more useful. I've read on here that it's silver soldered on, but what I haven't seen, is does it junk the parkerizing on the barrel when you get it hot enough to remove. I've seen M-60's and M-249's barrels hot enough to glow a dull red, and it didn't seem to hurt the finish on them. I don't want to just go for it though, and then need to re-park it. Got any advice/opinions?

s0b3
January 18, 2012, 20:01
I picked up a "ban-era" DR200 a little while back. It has Ace stocks already on it and I wouldn't mind changing that stupid dummy muzzle device for something a bit more useful. I've read on here that it's silver soldered on, but what I haven't seen, is does it junk the parkerizing on the barrel when you get it hot enough to remove. I've seen M-60's and M-249's barrels hot enough to glow a dull red, and it didn't seem to hurt the finish on them. I don't want to just go for it though, and then need to re-park it. Got any advice/opinions?

FWIW, the threads are a lot longer on a daewoo than an AR15 so most of the flash hiders/brakes you would replace it would leave a lot of exposed threads. What a lot of people do is get it cut down to 16" and threaded to AR15 specs. That way no worries about the finish being damaged, theaded to a standard size so you have more options, and a shorter carbine.

If you wanted to go the heat and remove route, you can use a check nut to take up some of the extra threads. Use a wet towel over the rest of the barrel to protect from the heat, parkerizing usually holds up pretty well to heat.

jerry704
January 18, 2012, 21:27
i removed mine and it was pretty easy. i picked up a tube of heat trap grease and coated the barrel about 4 or 5 inches i also squeezed some down into the bore the best i could. then used map gas to heat the muzzle device only i had my wrench ready and would check it every few mins while moving the the flame around when i felt movement i quickly removed device. i then hit the threads with the torch again to reactivate the solder and wiped it with a rag and then a wire brush. i cut down my factory fake hider to cover the extra threads but may get it shortened soon. i did not damage my parkerizing BUT when they attached these devices i believe the barrels were already park'ed, so i could see they touched up the solder joint with paint or something. i have seen others with this same characteristic since learning about my woo!

N4KVE
January 19, 2012, 08:55
Have the barrel shortened a few inches, then there is no heating involved. Have the barrel threaded 1/2x28, & any AR f/h can be used. On my 200 I am using a 3 prong Viet Nam era f/h. GARY N4KVE

boomerdog1
January 19, 2012, 08:56
Thank you so much guys. I'm going to heat it and use a jamb nut, I think they look just fine that way. I'll post pics when I do it, I know we all love pics. :) Thanks again.

IslandTimes
January 20, 2012, 16:22
I removed the dummy flash hider off mine and thought I had messed up the finish because there was some discoloration near the end. But now that you mention it, it does look more like paint than the actual finish.

boomerdog1
January 25, 2012, 19:01
I got the dummy hider off with relative ease, there was just a little silver-solder right at the end of the barrel, and even less on the threads. :cool: I ordered a jam-nut and I also like the idea of cutting the dummy down to use as a spacer. I have an "A2-birdcage" on the way, I kinda like 'em, simple, but effective.

Now, a question about sling mounts. I hate the way the ACE skeleton stock has the sling mount on top. I don't have a folder. I like the simple GI type M-16 sling, has anyone added a "swivel" to their ACE stock? I have a couple of ideas on how to add one, (drill and tap). Any suggestions?

boomerdog1
January 31, 2012, 20:01
As promised, pics of my 'woo...

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r43/winifredevw/IMG_2843.jpg

I wound up cutting down the dummy hider to use as a spacer, I cut it at the rear groove, filed it square, used a stone to polish it up a little, then cold-blued the raw metal. It works nice as a jam nut, plus it covers the end of the barrel where the silver solder still shows.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r43/winifredevw/IMG_2844.jpg

The sling swivel didn't turn out like I had hoped, the way I did it lets the swivel, well, swivel. I would rather have it stationary, it works, but it's not what I wanted. I'll probably re-do that.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r43/winifredevw/IMG_2845.jpg

darkest2000
January 31, 2012, 21:15
Wow, that looks very tastefully done. I like it!:)

Dare I say that stock looks more stylish than even the original K2?

boomerdog1
March 04, 2012, 18:19
Well, I re-did that rear sling mount. I used a sling mount for a Garand,
http://www.ammogarand.com/m1-garand-winchester-butt-plate-2s-marked-ww.html

I filed a recess into the stock to give it somewhere flat to sit on, and drilled several shallow holes on the "shelf" that I made. I then filed some rather deep grooves in the Garand sling mount where it mated to the stock. I used J-B weld between the stock and the sling mount, a few drops of blue Loc-tite on the mounting screw, and then built-up J-B around the mount. After some filing, sanding, and a few shots of flat black paint, this is the result.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r43/winifredevw/IMG_2850.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r43/winifredevw/IMG_2849.jpg


I didn't take any pics along the way, sorry. I'm much happier with the way it turned out this time! :)

black sheep
March 08, 2012, 16:23
Very nice work! congrats!

tiblow
March 15, 2012, 23:48
Yes, nice job on your Woo fixes, she looks good I like the FH :smile:;)