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D P Six
September 11, 2011, 08:42
My son just tool transfer on an AWC Odyssey 22 can. This suppressor cannot be disassembled. Considering the crud buildup factor of the 22, would capping a section of PVC just larger than the suppressor, filling it with Kroil and letting the can soak for a day after each shooting session be a good way to minimise buildup. Any suggestions? Thanks.

W.E.G.
September 11, 2011, 10:48
Good luck removing molten lead splatter in a sealed container by sloshing oil on it.

hagar
September 11, 2011, 11:56
Kroil would probably work as good as anything, but the stuff is poisonous. It creeks as good under your skin as lifting fouling, so be careful.

jaykden
September 11, 2011, 12:22
my recommendation with a sealed .22 can, is when you start noticing more noise while shooting, send it off to the manufacturer and have them disassemble and clean it.

this is what i've read on silencertalk anyway...

riffraff2
September 12, 2011, 04:33
Use an air hose and tip to blow air through it to remove all the fluid and whatever crap the soaking has loosened up. Works pretty good on my 9mm can.

W.E.G.
September 12, 2011, 05:57
Originally posted by riffraff2
Works pretty good on my 9mm can.

Do you shoot super-sonic bare-lead bullets through your 9mm can?

riffraff2
September 12, 2011, 11:59
Originally posted by W.E.G.


Do you shoot super-sonic bare-lead bullets through your 9mm can?

No, only jacketed bullets, both supersonic and subsonic. I realize my cleaning method would probably do little clean out the lead splatter problem already mentioned in the thread. The first time I did the dunk,soak, and blow out to my can I was really suprised at the amount of gunk that came out and I had probably only shot less than 400 rds through the can up till that point.

akajun
September 12, 2011, 14:44
You can always use an outers foul out.

2barearms
September 12, 2011, 15:06
A good friend who has lots of supressors suggested that I dunk mine
in water prior to shooting them, he says it helps to keep the suppressor
clean and aids in NR. You might try some Balistol also, it's some good stuff
for cleaning guns, leather and lubricates like nothing else I've used.

stimpsonjcat
September 12, 2011, 15:40
Mmmmm!!! Suppressor goo!

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/41190821/gunstuff/dirtycan.jpg

greenpeas
September 14, 2011, 12:28
I mostly just clean mine like you would a gun and apply a thin coat of high-temp bearing grease and put it back together. I mostly run FA .22 through a 9mm silencer, it gets real dirty real quick.

That .22 is some dirty, dirty stuff.

idsubgun
September 16, 2011, 15:12
If you're going to soak it, you'd be better off soaking it in Ed's Red, then Kroil. I swore off Kroil years ago because if allowed to remain on whatever you use it on, it will turn into a shellac coating.

If you remove all the Kroil, then you should be good to go. But Ed's Red is way better then Kroil.


CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or
equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA
approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use
HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate.
The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to
collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the
lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking
precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and
stirring until it is all dissolved.

I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the
50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.
This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining
mix.


LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician
immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with
water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.

3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist.
It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner
inconsistent with its labelling. Reports have associated repeated and
prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and
nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced
air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or
equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.


INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING "Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is
most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch
from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale
on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch
should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it
back into the bore.

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the
breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes
and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting
approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its
action.

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded
revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be
used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth,
target-grade barrels in routine use.

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out
loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag
without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing,
leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average
conditions.

5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the
firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I
recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will
readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.

6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun.
While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it
contains is harmful to most wood finishes).

7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry
the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag.
First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if
the bore is cleaned as described.

8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used
exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after
use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not
wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked from black powder
fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy
fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush
with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual
moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART
whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all
the corrosive residue out.