PDA

View Full Version : Best 22 rimfire suppressor


451Detonics
April 27, 2011, 19:27
I have been on several websites, read through dozens of posts, watched countless you tube videos and still don't know the answer to this rather basic question. I dropped my class III dealer FFL 20 years ago and haven't really kept up on things so in today's market I am somewhat lost. I want a good 22 can, my main criteria are very simple

Level of suppression
Ease of cleaning

Size isn't a major issue other than I don't want to be hanging a .223 can off the front of a Browning Buckmark so the bigger centerfire cans are not wanted. So far I think the Thompson Machine Zephyr XL is what I think I want.

So tell me who's suppressors I should look at and not just a link but tell me why it should be considered...thanks for the info all.

Stranger
April 27, 2011, 20:05
The Thompson is a great design. However, I don't like having baffles that aren't the same material as the tube.

The 22Sparrow is the can I would get now. Its easy to disassemble and it is all stainless. That being said, there are so many good .22LR suppressor designs on the market right now you could throw a dart to decide and not come out disappointed.

I have been using a TAC65 for the last six years. It still works great. My newer AAC Element is pretty nice and easier to clean than the TAC65, however, it was four times as expensive.

BlasterLP
April 27, 2011, 20:25
SWR Spectre is SMALL, includes the pusher rod to assist with disassembly and has the tool for the end caps and its very quiet!

Like Stranger has said, there are many good designs out on the market.

partisan50
April 28, 2011, 05:00
Silencerco SS Sparrow (I got one pending, an awesome design)

Gemtech Alpine

SWR Specter

CG&L
April 28, 2011, 19:06
The Sparrow is the hot ticket. It may not be the most quite but cleaning a mono-core is easy

I have several mono-cores myself and will probable get a Sparrow sometime soon. 22s are very dirty and the lead vapor solidifying in them doesn’t help


451Detonics
Suppression wise, the sparrow runs with the good cans.
I don’t know if you’ve used a 22 suppressor before but, if you want real suppression, you need to shoot sub-sonic ammo. Also, the sound coming out of the ejection port might be louder than you expect
Realistically, you need to use a bolt gun to get great suppression
The bullet hitting the target can be much louder than the suppressed shot as well

Because of these factors, I don’t look for what is the ultimate in quite but for something that works good and is easy to clean

PhatForrest
May 04, 2011, 03:21
Check out the Liberty Constitution. All steel, take apart monocore, and you can shoot 223 through it as well.

idsubgun
May 04, 2011, 13:28
Tactical Solutions Cascade.

TS Cascade (http://www.tacticalsol.com/products/22-lr-conversions?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=34&category_id=16)

AlaskanMBR
May 04, 2011, 20:12
I have a TS Cascade TI and it rules. It's light AND quiet!

Stranger
May 05, 2011, 12:01
I love TacSol and have a couple of their barrels but that can is one I would stay away from. Any company that claims you never need to clean a 22LR can is full of crap.

AlaskanMBR
May 05, 2011, 12:06
I cleaned mine once- filled it with foaming bore cleaner and let it sit. Once dry, tapped it against a piece of wood and the lead/carbon/crap buildup fell out in chunks. It worked good, haven't felt the need to do it since.

idsubgun
May 05, 2011, 21:55
Originally posted by Stranger
I love TacSol and have a couple of their barrels but that can is one I would stay away from. Any company that claims you never need to clean a 22LR can is full of crap.

I was going to reply to this last night but I wanted to check with the company before I did. Tac Sol has never said you never need to clean it, it states you don't need to disassemble it to clean it.

From the web site:

"No need to disassemble for cleaning; just spray with an inexpensive carbon cleaner and walk away."

Maybe that's what you heard/read.

cgmees
May 05, 2011, 22:24
Personally, I have had excellent results from AWC's versions of all suppressors.


http://www.awcsystech.com/

I have a few models in 22LR, 5.56, 9MM and 45ACP and have always been very happy with their customer service and the design.

Stranger
May 06, 2011, 10:13
Originally posted by idsubgun


I was going to reply to this last night but I wanted to check with the company before I did. Tac Sol has never said you never need to clean it, it states you don't need to disassemble it to clean it.

From the web site:

"No need to disassemble for cleaning; just spray with an inexpensive carbon cleaner and walk away."

Maybe that's what you heard/read.

Sorry, I meant "disassemble to clean", not just "clean". However, there isn't a lot of difference. You must be able to disassemble a 22LR can in order to clean it. It requires manual removal of the carbon and lead deposits (e.g. scraping, blasting, etc.). Dipping it in a solvent isn't going to do squat. Trust me, I've tried lots of different solvent combinations.

Molten/vaporized lead that hardens on the baffles and interior surfaces isn't going to just dissolve away. Gemtech claimed that about their 22LR cans as well, but after 10K rounds there is a significant drop in performance (i.e. it starts getting louder and louder) and the can weighs twice as much as it did new. That is great for Gemtech because now the user has to send it back and pay to get it cleaned, or better yet Gemtech says they can't clean it and you have to buy a replacement.

bykerhd
May 06, 2011, 11:37
I'm envious of you folks that can own suppressors. Illegal in my state.

But, the comment about the .22 silencer gaining weight as it fouls up is interesting.

I wonder if by weighing it when new, and then keeping track of rounds fired and weight gain, if you could come up with a reasonable schedule for when maintenance would be required ?

Just a thought.

idsubgun
May 06, 2011, 15:16
We did an experiment at work about a month ago. We took one of our .22LR cans apart and soaked the baffles in a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. It soaked for about 12 hours. It completely cleaned the lead off the baffles.

Don't do this with a can with aluminum parts. It will attack the aluminum. But it cleans the hell out of stainless, Ti, Inconel, etc.

AlaskanMBR
May 06, 2011, 20:06
That was my understanding... The idea that you can't dissolve the lead buildup is completely unbelievable to me. That's why the only Al can I'd ever buy would have to be disassemble-able. I only have one Al can, for my .45, and yes I can take it apart.

Stranger
May 06, 2011, 22:02
Originally posted by idsubgun
We did an experiment at work about a month ago. We took one of our .22LR cans apart and soaked the baffles in a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. It soaked for about 12 hours. It completely cleaned the lead off the baffles.

Don't do this with a can with aluminum parts. It will attack the aluminum. But it cleans the hell out of stainless, Ti, Inconel, etc.

We will have to disagree about this. There is no way in hell a solvent will remove the residue in a can without destroying the can. I have tried it on my stainless cans. It just doesn't work.

I know that you work for them, but please do not spout bullshit as gospel.

Stranger
May 06, 2011, 22:09
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR
The idea that you can't dissolve the lead buildup is completely unbelievable to me.

If you believe that you are an idiot.

You can dissolve the lead but you will also compromise (i.e. destroy) your suppressor.

Unless TacSol has come up with a new, Nobel-prize-worthy metal coating I say they are full of shit.

AlaskanMBR
May 06, 2011, 22:17
Originally posted by Stranger


If you believe that you are an idiot.

All I know is that my can is made from titanium, and I have cleaned the lead/crap from it using a bore cleaner purported to dissolve lead, copper, and fouling.

I may be an idiot, but you are NOT definitely an internet know-it-all dickhead. :wink:

Stranger
May 06, 2011, 22:19
Originally posted by bykerhd

I wonder if by weighing it when new, and then keeping track of rounds fired and weight gain, if you could come up with a reasonable schedule for when maintenance would be required ?

Just a thought.

That is the great thing about suppressor manufacturers who care about their customers... they TELL YOU HOW OFTEN YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO DISASSEMBLE and CLEAN THEM.

Any 22LR suppressor supplier who tells you their suppressor doesn't need disassembly and cleaning is FULL OF SHIT.

They want to make money off of you.

Stranger
May 06, 2011, 22:33
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR


All I know is that my can is made from titanium, and I have cleaned the lead/crap from it using a bore cleaner purported to dissolve lead, copper, and fouling.

I may be an idiot, but you are most definitely an internet know-it-all dickhead.

You are a suppressor neophyte who doesn't know any better. For that I will forgive you.

AlaskanMBR
May 06, 2011, 22:43
Originally posted by Stranger


You are a suppressor neophyte who doesn't know any better. For that I will forgive you.

:bow: Thanks for your forgiveness, all knowing suppressor master. Now do you have any backup for the shit you're spouting?

Sig220
May 06, 2011, 22:45
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR speaking of stranger


All I know is that my can is made from titanium, and I have cleaned the lead/crap from it using a bore cleaner purported to dissolve lead, copper, and fouling.

I may be an idiot, but you are most definitely an internet know-it-all dickhead.



+1 :rofl: :rofl:

Stranger
May 07, 2011, 14:15
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR


:bow: Thanks for your forgiveness, all knowing suppressor master. Now do you have any backup for the shit you're spouting?

You don't have to believe me. Go look through Suppressor Talk, or even post on the forums and ask. Unless you are dipping your suppressor in a solution of nitric acid the lead is not being removed. Even supposed "lead removing" solvents like Hoppes don't really do much of anything to remove lead. Its your elbow grease that does it all.

Or, you can prove it yourself. Go weigh your suppressor. Shoot 5K rounds through it and "clean" it as you have been doing. Weigh it again. You will find that your can weighs a lot more. Can you guess why? Yep, your cleaning method isn't sufficient. Start saving for a new can.

But, hey, what do I know? Its not like I have shot tens of thousands of rounds of ammunition suppressed. Oh, wait. I have done that. :rolleyes:

Powderfinger
May 07, 2011, 14:18
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR
I have a TS Cascade TI and it rules. It's light AND quiet!

Our Governor just signed a bill for allowing suppressor use (They could be owned but not used according to a quirk in state law-go figure).
Can the TS Cascades units be dissaembled if needed?

Stranger
May 07, 2011, 14:27
Originally posted by Powderfinger

Can the TS Cascades units be dissaembled if needed?

That is the rub. They are sealed cans. You will have to send it back to Tac Sol for a rebuild when it fills with lead and carbon.

Stranger
May 07, 2011, 15:02
Originally posted by Sig220

+1 :rofl: :rofl:

From the "Glock Armourer" who doesn't know how a Glock works. :rolleyes:

I figure its better to know a lot about a little than be a know-nothing-about-anything like yourself.

Sig220
May 07, 2011, 16:33
Originally posted by Stranger


From the "Glock Armourer" who doesn't know how a Glock works. :rolleyes:

I figure its better to know a lot about a little than be a know-nothing-about-anything like yourself.

Haven't messed with Glocks since you were about 21 and still wet behind the ears........so what is your point........not that it matters...........just funny to see someone call you by your nickname..........

"an internet know-it-all dickhead"

well done, AlaskanMBR!!!! :rofl:

idsubgun
May 07, 2011, 17:21
Originally posted by Stranger


We will have to disagree about this. There is no way in hell a solvent will remove the residue in a can without destroying the can. I have tried it on my stainless cans. It just doesn't work.

I know that you work for them, but please do not spout bullshit as gospel.

I don't spout BS as gospel. I can only state what I've seen.

Don't buy TS's cans. There, problem solved.

AlaskanMBR
May 07, 2011, 18:25
Titanium is renowned for being relatively chemically inert, and corrosion resistant. Cleaning methods that may not work on stainless may work on Ti? What about ultrasonic cleaning in a solution that will dissolve Pb but not Ti? Something has to work, and if there is no known way to do it right now then there's a market waiting to be tapped, however niche.

Just saying it can't be done doesn't cut it in my book, unless all avenues of problem solving have been explored- which I highly doubt is the case in this instance.

When I cleaned my cascade Ti with foaming bore cleaner and a bunch of crap flaked out, that may not have been a total cleaning but it did in fact remove some of the fouling/lead residue. It's a start anyways...

AlaskanMBR
May 07, 2011, 18:33
Originally posted by idsubgun

Don't buy TS's cans. There, problem solved.

YEAH! TS's cascade Ti TOTALLY SUCKS! (except for being lighter and quieter than all the other 22 cans I've handled, which is why I bought it in the first place)

But then again I am a suppressor neophyte who doesn't know any better! :biggrin: I should probably quit my part time job with the SOT II I work for and find one where I can get more experience with different models of suppressors

AlaskanMBR
May 07, 2011, 18:41
TS PORN!

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff244/akmbr/CIMG0286-1.jpg

Sucks, doesn't it?

The can on the beretta is the TS cascade Ti. The 10/22 is integrally suppressed from TS, the integral ruger is not TS at all...

Stranger
May 07, 2011, 18:51
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR
TS PORN!

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff244/akmbr/CIMG0286-1.jpg

Sucks, doesn't it?

The can on the beretta is the TS cascade Ti. The 10/22 is integrally suppressed from TS, the integral ruger is not TS at all...

I had more respect for you before I saw the TAPCO 10/22 stock. :tongue:

I suppose you could sum up my opinion with the following:

Disassemblable 22LR suppressor = good

Sealed 22LR suppressor = not so good

Take it for what it is worth.

Stranger
May 07, 2011, 18:55
Originally posted by idsubgun

Don't buy TS's cans. There, problem solved.

If TS would make a take-apart suppressor I would consider buying it. I don't like seeing companies BS about not needing to take apart 22LR suppressors to clean them.

AlaskanMBR
May 07, 2011, 19:01
Originally posted by Stranger


I had more respect for you before I saw the TAPCO 10/22 stock. :tongue:

I suppose you could sum up my opinion with the following:

Disassemblable 22LR suppressor = good

Sealed 22LR suppressor = not so good

Take it for what it is worth.

I wasn't a fan of TAPCO anything until I tried that stock. Now I know there is one thing that TAPCO makes that I like.

Yep, you hit it on the head Stranger- opinions are like assholes! :rofl:

P.S. The integral on that TS 10/22 is a removable monocore.

Bruce Allen
May 07, 2011, 19:59
Originally posted by 451Detonics
....So tell me who's suppressors I should look at and not just a link but tell me why it should be considered...thanks for the info all.

Call or email my brothers store and ask.. they sell both silencers and full auto weapons:

http://www.allenarms.net/

Feel free to ask for Frank, my brother, or either Curtis or Andrew (his sons) and tell them you are from the FAL Files and I recommended them to you

Bruce Allen

Stranger
May 07, 2011, 21:05
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR


I wasn't a fan of TAPCO anything until I tried that stock. Now I know there is one thing that TAPCO makes that I like.

Yep, you hit it on the head Stranger- opinions are like assholes! :rofl:

P.S. The integral on that TS 10/22 is a removable monocore.

Does that make the opinion of an asshole more or less worthy? :smile:

Your 10/22 looks WAY too clean and pretty. How many rounds do you have through it? Have you had a chance to take apart the Sawtooth? That is something I have had my eye on since they came out with it.

JOHN E
May 07, 2011, 23:25
Baking soda and air to clean an aluminum suppressor works for me
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=59554

I've upgraded the Sparrow to stainless since that post, so it will be dipped from now on. I do have a Gemtech Alpine out there on a Form 3 somewhere, so my large supply of baking soda won't go to waste.

AlaskanMBR
May 08, 2011, 00:03
Originally posted by Stranger


Does that make the opinion of an asshole more or less worthy? :smile:

Your 10/22 looks WAY too clean and pretty. How many rounds do you have through it? Have you had a chance to take apart the Sawtooth? That is something I have had my eye on since they came out with it.

That 10/22 is a company gun- not my personal gun (It's a double tax stamp gun and the suppression level isn't impressive enough for me to want one- the full length version is way quieter). I get to handle and try a lot of stuff before I decide which one I want to buy- just one of the reasons I LOVE working for an SOT! I've only put a couple thousand rounds thru it. The sawtooth is hard to take apart after about 500 rds due to the way crud builds up on the interior surface of the tube and you have to fight it to unscrew it. That's my beef with the sawtooth (and most monocore) designs, I like the way the silencerco sparrow has the two part sleeve- WAY easier to take apart. If I was going to get a 22 can that disassembled that's the way I'd go.

CG&L
May 08, 2011, 07:28
The two part sleeve on the sparrow makes all the difference. I build my Form 4s with two part sleeves
It doesn’t make any difference how dirty and fouled-up they get. Everything is contained. You lose a little bit of volume but I’ve found that design trumps volume

Detonics 451
As you may have gathered, there’s been a awful lot of contention about cleaning
With a stainless steel, mono-core such as the sparrow, cleaning is very simple.
I pocket knife clean mono-cores, Scrape them out a little and go back to shooting
Life is too short to be that concerned about suppressor cleaning.

partisan50
May 08, 2011, 10:32
Originally posted by idsubgun
We did an experiment at work about a month ago. We took one of our .22LR cans apart and soaked the baffles in a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. It soaked for about 12 hours. It completely cleaned the lead off the baffles.

Don't do this with a can with aluminum parts. It will attack the aluminum. But it cleans the hell out of stainless, Ti, Inconel, etc.

Yes it works great, but be careful because once you soak and clean the parts in that solution it becomes lead acetate, which is haz mat.

Stranger
May 08, 2011, 21:50
Originally posted by partisan50


Yes it works great, but be careful because once you soak and clean the parts in that solution it becomes lead acetate, which is haz mat.

+1 The peracetic acid produced during the reaction between vinegar (acetic acid) and hydrogen peroxide is a potent oxidizer.

Lead acetate has a very sweet taste. Keep it away from your dogs. They will eat paper and cloth contaminated with it. If you have kids make doubly sure you wash your hands a few times before picking them up.

One last note I will make concerns the action of peracetic acid on steel. It will oxidize iron.

jaykden
May 09, 2011, 01:45
knock off the insults stranger.

Stranger
May 09, 2011, 11:18
Originally posted by jaykden
knock off the insults stranger.

What the hell are you talking about? :?

Stranger
May 09, 2011, 11:33
Originally posted by jaykden
knock off the insults stranger.

Wait, do you think that the term "peracetic acid" is an insult? 'Cause its not. Its just the chemicals name.

If anyone took offense at my use of the term peracetic acid I apologize. It was not meant to be insulting.

idsubgun
May 09, 2011, 14:11
Originally posted by partisan50


Yes it works great, but be careful because once you soak and clean the parts in that solution it becomes lead acetate, which is haz mat.

Yes, I know but thank you for the warning as others probably wouldn't have known.
I was doing this with an engineer and he told me about it becoming lead acetate. I didn't know that before. But then, I had never done this before! LOL ;)

jaykden
May 09, 2011, 17:53
Originally posted by Stranger


What the hell are you talking about? :?

really? you really don't know what i am talking about? how about this:

Originally posted by Stranger



"If you believe that you are an idiot." (this is when YOU started with the insults)


"You are a suppressor neophyte who doesn't know any better"


"From the "Glock Armourer" who doesn't know how a Glock works.
I figure its better to know a lot about a little than be a know-nothing-about-anything like yourself."





now do you know what i am talking about, or do i need to spell it out better?

:skull:

Stranger
May 09, 2011, 20:54
Originally posted by jaykden


really? you really don't know what i am talking about? how about this:

now do you know what i am talking about, or do i need to spell it out better?

:skull:

If someone comes on the Files and states that they are buying shares of the Golden Gate Bridge I am going to tell them they are stupid if they believe it. Its just us adults taking here. It is tongue in cheek. Perhaps you wouldn't have minded if I had said, "If you believe that, I have a bridge to sell you."

Concerning that I know, I now know that you are incredibly thin-skinned. Perhaps a fellow Alaskan getting ribbed doesn't sit well? :?

jaykden
May 09, 2011, 21:21
you had the option of backing down when i warned you to stop with the insults.

now, enough is enough.

AndyC
May 09, 2011, 22:33
I have a few comments here:

1. Stranger - mind your manners as per Gary's rule and quit jumping down peoples' throats.

2. As for the rest of you, Stranger holds advanced degrees in chemistry - so if he says that some liquid won't dissolve lead (which I didn't know either), I'm going to take him at his word because he knows his shit and I for one would like to know more.

Stranger
May 09, 2011, 23:11
Originally posted by AndyC
I have a few comments here:

1. Stranger - mind your manners as per Gary's rule and quit jumping down peoples' throats.

2. As for the rest of you, Stranger holds advanced degrees in chemistry - so if he says that some liquid won't dissolve lead (which I didn't know either), I'm going to take him at his word because he knows his shit and I for one would like to know more.

Andy, thank you for your comments. I bow to your opinion that I was being too harsh. I apologize.

I apologize to anyone and everyone who took umbrage after reading my statements to and concerning AlaskanMBR. I did not intend to personally offend him or anyone else. As I reflect on my initial statement to Alaska, it was in haste and unduly harsh. I should have chosen my words more wisely.

I remain steadfast on my assertion that that lead fouling of 22LR suppressor should/must be removed via physical methods from removeable baffles and not chemical methods from sealed suppressors.

AlaskanMBR
May 09, 2011, 23:46
Originally posted by Stranger

I remain steadfast on my assertion that that lead fouling of 22LR suppressor should/must be removed via physical methods from removeable baffles and not chemical methods from sealed suppressors.

You're saying ultrasonic cleaning with a solvent won't work on a sealed can?

You perplex me with your "it can't be done" attitude. I'm sure you know tons about chemistry, but seem to lack a problem solving mindset. It seems that either you've tried every plausible method known to man and failed or you're one of those guys who likes to say it can't be done.

AndyC
May 10, 2011, 00:08
Question:

Could it be that it's the ultrasonic vibrations that are doing the cleaning ie. physical "abrasion" due to ultrasonics (for want of a more technical term) - and that the solvent is just carrying away the debris?

AlaskanMBR
May 10, 2011, 00:12
Originally posted by AndyC
Question:

Could it be that it's the ultrasonic vibrations that are doing the cleaning ie. physical "abrasion" due to ultrasonics (for want of a more technical term) - and that the solvent is just carrying away the debris?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrasonic_cleaning

Google ultrasonic suppressor cleaning. Apparently people have been doing it for some time, just don't do it with an aluminum can.

AndyC
May 10, 2011, 00:44
An ultrasound generating transducer built into the chamber, or lowered into the fluid, produces ultrasonic waves in the fluid by changing size in concert with an electrical signal oscillating at ultrasonic frequency. This creates compression waves in the liquid of the tank which ‘tear’ the liquid apart, leaving behind many millions of microscopic ‘voids’ or ‘partial vacuum bubbles’ (cavitation). These bubbles collapse with enormous energy; temperatures and pressures on the order of 5,000 K and 20,000 lbs per square inch are achieved
So it's basically a physical scrubbing effect, albeit at the microscopic level.

So what would happen if one used water as the solution? How does that compare in terms of the efficiency of removing lead versus other solutions?

jaykden
May 10, 2011, 11:34
is there ANY advantage going with a sealed .22 can over one that can be disassembled and cleaned?

i like the idea of the silencerco sparrow myself.



man, i haven't even got my .30 phantom yet and i'm already wanting another...

Stranger
May 10, 2011, 13:20
Originally posted by jaykden
is there ANY advantage going with a sealed .22 can over one that can be disassembled and cleaned?


The manfacturer can arrange the baffles in such a way as to maximize efficiency. That will give you lower first round pop and conceivably reduce the sound signature. They can even "tune" the suppressor so that its tone is lower or higher. If your customers dick with the baffles then it could affect performance. With the new mono-core designs it isn't so much of an issue. The baffle is already arranged.

Stranger
May 10, 2011, 13:30
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR

You're saying ultrasonic cleaning with a solvent won't work on a sealed can?

You perplex me with your "it can't be done" attitude. I'm sure you know tons about chemistry, but seem to lack a problem solving mindset. It seems that either you've tried every plausible method known to man and failed or you're one of those guys who likes to say it can't be done.

Horn sonication will work to remove the deposits (the term is cavitation). Bath sonication didn't work worth a crap. Even horn sonication takes a long, long time to remove anything. The thing about sonication is that it also does a number on surface coatings (i.e. paint). Unfortunately, it appears that lead likes to stick to steel even more than paint.

You are right. I have a shitty attitude. Perhaps that comes from spending ten years trying to find a good (perfect?) solution phase method to remove lead from metal objects. I'm getting burned out. I don't even want to get started on what mercury will do to aluminium.

Oh, BTW, Ti does a great job of resisting corrosion from acetic acid, water, hydrogen peroxide, and peracetic acid. So, if your can is all Ti you are good to go using the 1:1 mixture of 5% acetic acid:3% hydrogen peroxide. I just looked at my sample and there has been no activity on the Ti test subject. However, steel will rust.

idsubgun
May 10, 2011, 14:27
Originally posted by Stranger

With the new mono-core designs it isn't so much of an issue. The baffle is already arranged.

But they aren't as quiet as stacked baffle cans. A stack of K baffles is way quieter then any mono-core design.

AlaskanMBR
May 10, 2011, 17:31
Originally posted by Stranger


You are right. I have a shitty attitude. Perhaps that comes from spending ten years trying to find a good (perfect?) solution phase method to remove lead from metal objects...

Well why didn't you say that before, when I asked if you had any backup? It now appears that your smart/ass ratio is 3:1, and the ass component seems to be diminishing with every post! :D

I assume you tried a relatively wide frequency range with the bath sonication?

Timber Wolf
May 11, 2011, 13:03
[i]smart/ass ratio is 3:1[/B]

I am going to remember and steal that one use at just the right time...... "Yes, I hear you good and kind Sir, but it appears that your smart to ass ratio is dangerously out of balance".:uhoh:

Stranger
May 11, 2011, 15:27
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR


Well why didn't you say that before, when I asked if you had any backup? It now appears that your smart/ass ratio is 3:1, and the ass component seems to be diminishing with every post! :D

I assume you tried a relatively wide frequency range with the bath sonication?

I have personal and professional experience, but no journal articles or published research to cite. Typically, that does't cut it as evidence/support. (It doesn't for me anyway.)

Do you know how much multiple transducer array sonicators cost? :eek:

To answer your question, yes I have tried everything from 20 to 300 kHz using anywhere from 50 to 650W. Typically, at high frequencies you can remove smaller particles (frequency is tied to particle size removal). However, at higher freq. the cavitation implosions lose a significant amount of energy. It is better to use a higher amplitude (power) at a single frequency than an variable array of frequencies.

saltshaker
May 11, 2011, 16:27
http://image.sportsmansguide.com/dimage/173876_ts.JPG?cvt=jpeg

Has some field expedite uses....... Is sold as a patch catcher for gun cleaning.....Sportsman's guide product.......Salt

AlaskanMBR
May 11, 2011, 17:10
Originally posted by saltshaker
http://image.sportsmansguide.com/dimage/173876_ts.JPG?cvt=jpeg

Has some field expedite uses....... Is sold as a patch catcher for gun cleaning.....Sportsman's guide product.......Salt

Looks like an ATF raid waiting to happen... As long as your house, wife, and kids are fire and bullet proof you should be ok...

saltshaker
May 11, 2011, 17:16
Agreed..... No one should pollute the hunting grounds of our beautiful country with old oily Hoppes soaked debris.....
We in my family are law abiding and we wear hearing and eye protection and sometimes gloves when at the range or in the field.....
I lead my children by example so they never are exposed to anything that would give them ideas that might blossom into thoughts of lawbreaking of any sort.....My duty as the Dad......It comes first.........

partisan50
May 13, 2011, 16:08
I don't know whay you guys are worried so much about sealed cans. My buddy has a Gemtech Outback II with over 10K on it and it's still quiet. When it stops being quiet he will send it in to Gemtech to have it upgraded to a servicable can.

AlaskanMBR
May 13, 2011, 22:43
Originally posted by partisan50
I don't know whay you guys are worried so much about sealed cans. My buddy has a Gemtech Outback II with over 10K on it and it's still quiet. When it stops being quiet he will send it in to Gemtech to have it upgraded to a servicable can.

Asked like a true suppressor neophyte. :tongue:

Stranger forgives you...


:biggrin:

Stranger
May 24, 2011, 12:09
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR


Asked like a true suppressor neophyte. :tongue:

Stranger forgives you...


:biggrin:

:tongue: :wink: