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spatin
November 20, 2010, 09:18
I am having serious problems with reloads of my .45 ACP rounds in my Glock 30SF.

I have a Wolf barrel for the G30SF, the product number is LWD - 3045N is taken from the plastic case the barrel came in.

When I try to use my reloads - which is the entire reason I bought the barrel - one or two might fire and function ok then I get the mother of all jams. The round goes into the chamber almost all the way but not enough to go into battery. The pistol will not fire because it is not in battery. But the round is jammed into the chamber such that I can not eject it by pulling the slide back. So I have to travel home from the range and put the gun into a padded vise and give the back of the handle a whack or two with a rubber mallet to free up the round enough to eject it.

To answer the question you must be asking at this point, yes, the gun and this barrel shoots factory ammo just fine. I use Blazer target ammo and Winchester white box ammo and there is never a failure to feed and never a problem on ejection on the factory ammo.

I have other .45 ACP pistols that use my reloads without a problem. I have a 1911A1 that digests my reloads without any hesitation at all. A friend of mine used some of my reloads in his SIG yesterday without a problem.

I used my digital caliper to measure the finished reloads against the size of a new factory round and they seem to be the same. I recently purchased a Lee factory crimp die that is supposed to resize the entire finished round to factory specs and I ran some of my reloads through that die. They still got stuck in the Wolf barrel. I have not tried the reloads in my Glock barrel - they say not to use lead bullets in Glock's barrel - which is another reason why I got the Wolf barrel.

Could there be a problem with my Wolf barrel? Maybe it is too tight on the tolerances for feeding into the chamber?

Do you have any suggestions? Thank you for your comments.

spatin

kennaquhair
November 20, 2010, 10:48
If you take the barrel out of the pistol, do all of your reloads drop into the chamber, or is it sometimes a press fit? I would guess that the chamber is a little tighter, but I doubt that this is what is causing your problem.

What bullet and bullet shape are you using in your reloads? I assume that you are using uncoated lead bullets which is why you bought the after-market barrel. From your description of the failure, I'd want to guess that the ramp geometry in the Glock might be causing you to get a smear of lead from the bullet nose in an already tight chamber as the bullet is chambered from the magazine.

spatin
November 21, 2010, 11:02
Thanks. I'll have a look at those.

It could be the bullets. I'll measure some unused ones from the box.

the gman
November 21, 2010, 11:27
Firing a 50 or so rounds thru the factory Glock barrel shouldn't produce problems for you but might just show if the ammo or barrel is at fault.

GIshooter
November 21, 2010, 19:38
I also recommend pulling the barrel and checking the rounds for fit in the chamber. I had slight bulges in the loaded cases when I first started loading lead for mine as well. I also got the Lee factory crimp die. Workes like a champ after you get it adjusted right. I had to crimp the cast loads a lot more than I thought.
Specs: Lyman 452374 mould- double cavity 230 grain round nose
Sized: .452 diameter with Lee push thru sizer
Lube: Tumble lubed with Lee liquid Alox
Lead: Lyman No 2 alloy made from wheel weights and 50/50 solder.
I water drop the bullets. The barrel I use is a KKM in my G21. Works great after I got the Lee crimp die. I have Lee crimp dies for all of the calibers I load for now.
Almost forgot: The first lead bullets I used were some commercial cast bullets. The bullet profile sucked for that KKM chamber, but worked well out of a 1911 clone.

spatin
November 21, 2010, 23:44
Yeah, I thought about loading up a few in the original Glock barrel, but then if something goes KABOOM they will blame me for putting my reloads in the Glock barrel after they (Glock) told me not to do that.

Hi gman, nice to hear from you. Hope you can get up to CS CO some time for dinner and some home brew on me.

Sidney

Originally posted by the gman [/i]
Firing a 50 or so rounds thru the factory Glock barrel shouldn't produce problems for you but might just show if the ammo or barrel is at fault. [/QUOTE]

spatin
November 21, 2010, 23:46
I just wanted to say thanks for those who have made some suggetions to help me solve my problem with the reloads in the G30SF. The FAL Files was the first place I thought of to ask for help on the problem and you guys came through. I haven't figured it out yet but I really appreciate your input on this issue.

spatin

:beer:

W.E.G.
November 22, 2010, 01:18
Are you using a case gage to confirm the correct spec of your loaded rounds?

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rkba2da/reloading/casegage45.jpg

spatin
November 22, 2010, 08:45
No on the case gauge. I thought just putting them into the barrel (disassembled from the pistol) would do about the same thing.

Timber Wolf
November 22, 2010, 11:21
Just brain-storming here: Could it be that you are reloading rounds previously fired in the Glock and they have the “Glock Bulge” near the base that is not getting completely ironed-out by either the sizing die or the Lee factory Crimp die? Maybe in addition to the different rifling the new barrel supports more of the chamber and is binding the bulge? You might try finding a Lee “Bulge Buster” .45 set to push a few through and try that. The Bulge Buster set is not expensive, I think I paid $15-$18ish from Midway for my .40 S&W set. Good Luck!

W.E.G.
November 22, 2010, 14:13
Originally posted by spatin
No on the case gauge. I thought just putting them into the barrel (disassembled from the pistol) would do about the same thing.

Your barrel chamber is a poor substitute for a proper case gage.
People keep ignoring this element of reloading, and I will continue to give them major shit over it.

Now, as for the specific nature of your detected-too-late problem:

I bet you are getting some of the bullets cock-eyed enough that some rounds are caddywampus. You can get caddywampus bullet-seating when you have a seating stem that does not properly conform to the shape of the bullet nose, and/or you are not belling the case DEEPLY enough. Either condition allows the bullet go cockeyed when you try to mash it into the case with the ram.

Other possibility is that some cases are longer than others, so you end up with too much crimp on some cases. This causes the excess brass to form a "knob" around the circumference of the case mouth. In extreme cases, it pushes the bullet caddywampus to the point that you have another cockeyed round.

Deltaten
November 30, 2010, 10:18
A combination of a snug chamber and differing brass wall thickness might be it.

I've had plenny of trouble with certain brass cases and nominally sized .45 lead ball. Fed brass comes to mind. Springfield Armory tends to have minimal spec chambers.... actually a good thing ;) as ya can lap and polish to suit.

Only problem with the Lee full length/factory crimp die in these cases is that it *will* reduce the size of the lead (depending on alloy) enuff to make accuracy suffer. Had the same happen with some off-the-wall brand FMJ using Fed cases too.
A switch to Remington or WW cases solved the problem until I went thru the balance of the bullets.

A couple half-thousandths here and there add up! ;) What works with .451 FMJ/ball sometimes will not work with .452 (+) lead !!!!!!!! Differing specs most/sometimes; but chambers are set up to run mil-spec ball. Iff'n yer gonna run reloads thru it regular like; set it up for those reloads. Buff'n'fluff ta yer heart's content and the rounds work like ya want :D

HTH,
Paul

spatin
November 30, 2010, 11:12
Hi Paul. Thanks for the comments. Right now the cold weather here is keeping me from going out to the range to try out a few things, but I will resurrect this thread after I have had a chance to try out some ideas with new reloads.

Sidney

1stSSPZ
November 30, 2010, 20:18
I have 5 different Glocks and all are fitted with Lone Wolf barrels. Lone Wolf barrel chambers ARE tighter than factory Glock chambers. The only Glock I have ever seen have problems with the bulged cases are the .40 cal versions, (I use the Redding version of the bulge eliminator) although I would not rule that out for the .45. I think that of all the potential problems mentioned an inadequate crimp is the most likely culprit. If factory ammo drops in the chamber freely while holding the barrel muzzle down (you should hear a nice "kerplunk") then the Lone Wolf barrel is not the problem.

spatin
November 30, 2010, 23:07
I don't remember a "kerplunk". I'll have to try that again!
But thanks for your comments. I feel vindicated! Wolf chambers are tighter!
(no jerky comments about that one please)


Originally posted by 1stSSPZ
I have 5 different Glocks and all are fitted with Lone Wolf barrels. Lone Wolf barrel chambers ARE tighter than factory Glock chambers. The only Glock I have ever seen have problems with the bulged cases are the .40 cal versions, (I use the Redding version of the bulge eliminator) although I would not rule that out for the .45. I think that of all the potential problems mentioned an inadequate crimp is the most likely culprit. If factory ammo drops in the chamber freely while holding the barrel muzzle down (you should hear a nice "kerplunk") then the Lone Wolf barrel is not the problem.

Shootability
November 30, 2010, 23:15
I had this problem with my 21SF and a LW barrel - called them and they said send it back with some inert handloads of the type I wanted to shoot - they extended the chamber and no further problems - fast too - they are good folks to work with, but I have no idea why they make the chambers so tight and short. I shoot IDPA/USPSA and find the Glock barrels accurate - the LW are just to let me shoot lead without issues.

BTW you can shoot moly coated lead in a Glock barrel - BBI/Precision etc..

Try the Glock vs LW barrel and let me know if you see any accuracy advantage to the LW barrel.

spatin
November 30, 2010, 23:52
I did notice an advantage in accuracy with the LW barrel over the factory Glock barrel. That was with factory rounds, white box ammo mostly. Never could check the accuracy with handloads, as they never get past the load and lock part.


Originally posted by solvability
I had this problem with my 21SF and a LW barrel - called them and they said send it back with some inert handloads of the type I wanted to shoot - they extended the chamber and no further problems - fast too - they are good folks to work with, but I have no idea why they make the chambers so tight and short. I shoot IDPA/USPSA and find the Glock barrels accurate - the LW are just to let me shoot lead without issues.

BTW you can shoot moly coated lead in a Glock barrel - BBI/Precision etc..

Try the Glock vs LW barrel and let me know if you see any accuracy advantage to the LW barrel.

1stSSPZ
December 01, 2010, 18:40
Anytime I shoot a big match with my Glock-34, I put the factory barrel back in and shoot WWB or CCI blazer factory ammo. The only LW barrel I thought was more accurate than the factory Glock barrel was the one in my G-24 open gun.

Thunderin300
December 09, 2010, 10:21
I have a LWD threaded barrel for my 17L i got over a year ago. I had the same problem you did. I just sprent many hours with some very fine metal polishing sand paper, and one of my reload rounds. Just put on the game and take you time and pre prepared to be made fun of by your wife as i was lol.

hope that helps


Mark