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AlaskanMBR
April 16, 2010, 22:53
I've always wanted to do it.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff244/akmbr/CIMG0512.jpg

It's about f*cking time!

:whiskey:

With the gas system opened up all the way, the carrier just barely kisses the lower. I've got a buffer on order, and plans to open the gas hole on the block a little on the breech side under the adjustment nut. When there's no can the gas setting is perfect (strong ejection) at fully closed.

It's not hearing safe but at least there's no concussion. :)

On the 21" barrel it is hearing safe, but just too damn long.

The barrel is 11.5" chromed, so I'm hoping the slick and short will help a lot with subsonics, which I hope to get to run in semi with the can.

:P

I may be dreaming, but we'll see just as soon as I can get my hands on some Trailboss.

The adapter is 9/16x24LH to 5/8x24 made by hi-desert dog- very nice but my one gripe is no wrench flats.

The can is a tactical solutions Karma 7- I got it to go on this gun:

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff244/akmbr/CIMG0493.jpg
FN PBR XP 308! Yes it is hearing safe, and even quiet, but not nearly as when I get some subsonic loads in it.

Scope is a Nikon Buckmasters 6-18x w/ BDC

Tnguy
April 16, 2010, 23:18
What type of scope and power on the FN?

I have a YHM suppressor on my FAL Para, only get bullet crack. I haven't tried subsonic ammo in it yet.

Thanks!

AlaskanMBR
April 17, 2010, 08:24
16" barrel on your para? How do you change your gas setting for suppressed and how well does it work?

I edited the original post- scope is a Buckmasters 6-18, I like it a lot.

jaykden
April 17, 2010, 14:45
EXCELLENT!!!!!!!


i think it would be kickass to get a .35 cal suppressor for my .358 FAL.

AlaskanMBR
April 17, 2010, 16:45
Oh yessss.... Anything suppressed is cool to me. I just got a 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adapter so I could mount that can on an 11.5" barrel AR, I just tried it, works like a charm! Nothing but sonic crack. Hm... Crack. Is that why it's so addictive?

:rofl:

Hey Jake- you recognize that shorty front end?

gman
April 18, 2010, 07:09
guns.connect.fi/rs/Reflex.html

For when you want the 21" barrel too.

Artful
April 18, 2010, 11:59
Originally posted by gman
guns.connect.fi/rs/Reflex.html

For when you want the 21" barrel too.

You do know that those European cans, can't be imported except for .GOV buys - right.

I think OPS is the only one still making reflex cans in USA
http://opsinc.us/category.php@catId=30.html
but I could be wrong - keep in mind the barrel profile may have to
be changed to work with the reflex design. and OPS doesn't use
industry standard sound measurement for their "40 db reduction" either. :eek:

Nice looking gun - I doubt you'll get trailboss to cycle a FAL - only time mine cycled was when a bullet stuck in the barrel with the gas turned off - so watch for hole in the target. :]

but they are nice and quiet loads even if don't work the action
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMIomwkvyBQ

AlaskanMBR
April 18, 2010, 14:24
I've heard rumors of FALs cycling subsonic with one of the recoil springs removed, but they're just rumors. I'll get to see first hand soon...

...and hopefully without getting a bullet stuck in the barrel...

jaykden
April 18, 2010, 15:42
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR


Hey Jake- you recognize that shorty front end?


i thought it looked familiar...

:wink:

Tnguy
April 19, 2010, 15:14
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR
16" barrel on your para? How do you change your gas setting for suppressed and how well does it work?

I edited the original post- scope is a Buckmasters 6-18, I like it a lot.

My FAL para is an 18" and it slings the brass 20 or more feet from the gun!

AlaskanMBR
April 19, 2010, 20:55
Originally posted by Tnguy


My FAL para is an 18" and it slings the brass 20 or more feet from the gun!

How's your lower doing? You using a buffer? Do you adjust your gas when the can is on?

stimpsonjcat
April 21, 2010, 16:57
I modded a spare gas plug to a smaller hole and tuned it to get normal extraction when installed.

It's hearing safe as near as I can tell.

5/64" was the magic number IIRC.

AlaskanMBR
April 21, 2010, 21:32
You drilled it out and used it on grenade setting?

stimpsonjcat
April 22, 2010, 14:55
Sorry, no, welded up the existing hole and then redrilled it smaller.

W.E.G.
April 22, 2010, 16:11
Originally posted by AlaskanMBR
I've heard rumors of FALs cycling subsonic with one of the recoil springs removed, but they're just rumors. I'll get to see first hand soon...

...and hopefully without getting a bullet stuck in the barrel...

Be REAL careful about that.

Rifle projectiles can get real squirrelly at low velocities.

Goes without saying that you don't want to sacrifice an expensive suppressor to baffle strikes to "re-discover" that.

AlaskanMBR
April 22, 2010, 21:11
No doubt. Just like my precision loads I'll only ever hand measure the charges, and use them at the same ambient temperature range they were developed for. Things are getting busy, it'll be a while before I get a chance to work any loads down.

I will get another gas plug and get it welded and drilled so I don't have to worry about carrier slap with full power ammo.

gunplumber
April 23, 2010, 09:45
Originally posted by stimpsonjcat
I modded a spare gas plug to a smaller hole and tuned it to get normal extraction when installed.

It's hearing safe as near as I can tell.

5/64" was the magic number IIRC.

That's been my recommendation. What I haven't come up with yet is an adjustable one.

jaykden
April 23, 2010, 11:40
if (more like when) Sean Parnell signs off on the AFFA (Alaska Firearms Freedom Act), i just might find some way to end up with a "made in alaska" supressor!

it is one thing going through all the crap for a MG. doing a transfer requires a ferry to juneau (nearest class3 dealer) , staying in a hotel for a night, paying the dealer HIS cost of $200 for the NFA transfer (very expensive, but still cheaper than flying alaska airlines up north for a cheaper transfer) plus the $200 to the BATFE.

all that plus the cost of a can kinda kills it for me.

skuld
April 30, 2010, 14:18
Just make sure every thing is nice and concentric before pulling the trigger.

First shot out of my brand new suppressor, my first one, on my metric FAL and it hit the end cap!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gandalf23/4311825120/

:(

TCustoms
May 02, 2010, 13:27
That sucks. Doesn't mean it wasn't concentric to the bore though. Easily could have been your ammo.

Great thread for me though as I'm considering a SBR PARA style build. Thanks

ActionYobbo
May 02, 2010, 15:16
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm9/ActionYobbo/L1A1-1.jpg

AlaskanMBR
May 02, 2010, 18:12
That shorty FAL started out as a para, but I never really could get a good weld on the para stock so I got rid of it.

srv656s
September 07, 2010, 13:51
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/srv656s/Fal-can-standing.jpg

So I posted a few pictures of my FAL with the suppressor attached and I'm glad I did:

http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=295389

Apparently the consensus is that I won't be able to open up the gas system to bleed off enough energy and I'll beat the rifle to death with the standard gas system no matter how I set it.

I emailed Gunplumber and he Gunplumber suggested that I might be able to have someone make a custom gas plug with a smaller hole that would let less gas through. Unfortunately he hasn't done this before and didn't have any suggestions on who I could talk to.

Would anyone know anybody or anywhere I could talk to for this? I have no way of doing something like this on my own.

Thanks

Shawn

shlomo
September 07, 2010, 15:11
Stuff like this always intrigues me.

What about sleeving the original hole, instead of making a new plug?

tac-40
September 07, 2010, 15:20
What about sleeving the original hole, instead of making a new plug?

Playing devil's advocate here, since 50,000 psi does strange things to parts that may move. Would it be a possiblility that the sleeve could be forced loose and blow up into the gas block port? This would effectively lock the gas plug and block together until you could drive the sleeve back into the plug.

A simpler method would be to just drill and port the grenade side of a standard plug to a smaller than normal size. So instead of having a grenade setting, it would now be a suppressor setting. This would be very similar to what is being to gas piston AR's today.

J. Armstrong
September 07, 2010, 15:21
Why not just drill the grenade side of the stock plug with the smaller hole. Instead of "semi/grenade" you'd have "standard semi/suppressed semi" positions.

shlomo
September 07, 2010, 15:38
Originally posted by tac-40
A simpler method would be to just drill and port the grenade side of a standard plug to a smaller than normal size. So instead of having a grenade setting, it would now be a suppressor setting.

I thought this suggestion was elegantly simple and brilliant at first blush. But then I got out a barrel with a stripped block, and tried the plug in it. The original hole on the "A" side lines up with the access hole under the spring well and sight flange. My guess is that the gas coming up under the sight flange would do ugly things to it in short order.

Tac, my original suggestion was to sleeve the hole in the plug, not the one in the block. I imagined it as being something like a small cap screw shape inverted and pressed into a countersink drilled in the plug hole. Then the desired gas hole could be drilled.

richbug
September 07, 2010, 15:53
Drill and tap the port in your existing gas plug to 8-32 or thereabouts. Install a set screw that has had an appropriate sized hole drilled through it. Test fire, if it works as intended, solder in place.

The setscrew will give more "bite" than a simple pressed in sleeve.

shlomo
September 07, 2010, 15:56
Yep. Just been thinkin' the same and gauging hole to determine screw size.

ETA: the sample hole I have here (imbel plug) is right at .156. A #21 tap drill for a 10-32 screw is .159. Not sure that i wouldn't run the tap into the .156 hole, as I believe the #21 gives a 75% thread. Could be in error here, though, and would welcome a correction.

BTW--might be good to anneal the screw. Some are too hard to drill with HSS bits.

Slow
September 07, 2010, 15:57
a thought


use a piston with a smaller diameter head. grind an extra for use with a can.

i think a plug is fairly hard materiel to tap

p.s. might need a short tube as well

tac-40
September 07, 2010, 16:25
shlomo, you are right. Hadn't looked at it to see what you mean. So what about drilling a port 90 degrees out and adding a ball detent like a selector to the gas plug shoulder.? No impact on the sight flange and still a lot easier than making a new one. And I think a lot more secure than adding a sleeve/plug that could come loose.

tac-40
September 07, 2010, 16:28
Or even simpleer yet, get a smaller diameter gas piston and let the pressure vent around the head. Or for the machinist guys, make a smaller one. Sort of reverse engineering a fix for an FTE. Slap on the supressor and toss in the correct piston. Viola, no problem.

srv656s
September 07, 2010, 20:39
Thanks for all the great ideas. I'm still at a loss on how to get any of the suggested things. I think the smaller holed gas plug or a smaller diameter piston sound like great ideas, but don't know how I'd go about getting something like that.

Anyone have a contact that would be able to do something like that?

Thanks

Shawn

mountainman
September 07, 2010, 20:51
I might try but am very very very backed up.

shlomo
September 07, 2010, 20:53
There's a whole bunch of people on this board who could tackle this one way or another, including at least three of us in this thread.

Matter of fact, I have a stainless gas plug blank about half-finished in the lathe chuck as I write this. Turns out worth a flip, I'll report.

Meantime, 'splain to me what the issue is (residual back-pressure dwell on the piston from the effect of the can?), and how much smaller the port needs to be.

Discuss.

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 07:02
Originally posted by J. Armstrong
Why not just drill the grenade side of the stock plug with the smaller hole. Instead of "semi/grenade" you'd have "standard semi/suppressed semi" positions.

This is what I was planning originally, but think that it needs to be plugged first.

-T

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 07:07
Originally posted by srv656s

Apparently the consensus is that I won't be able to open up the gas system to bleed off enough energy and I'll beat the rifle to death with the standard gas system no matter how I set it.


Nah. It is not that bad with the standard plug as far as recoil goes. Try it and you will see, recoil is no where near HK-91/CETME levels. Probably two reasons for this: silencers act as great brakes, and the force on the bolt carrier was not terribly higher.

My intent for the small-hole was to help with the massive gas-in-the-face issues,

-T

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 07:33
null

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 07:41
Originally posted by shlomo

Meantime, 'splain to me what the issue is (residual back-pressure dwell on the piston from the effect of the can?), and how much smaller the port needs to be.

Discuss.

I've got the same can on my FAL. One of the problems we're trying to fix is to quiet down the FAL. The venting of gas straight to the atmosphere from the gas-block makes it a poor silencer host (but still worth it for shits and grins :D :D ).

The working theory is that a smaller hole in the gas-plug will still provide plenty of pressure to operate the action, and yet be quieter as we're venting less. I suspect there is something we've missed though and need in addition to the small hole gas-plug. We need a way to block or limit the venting to atmosphere from the adjustable collar.

Port size would probably need to be determined experimentally, starting very small, and going up until the rifle cycled reliably with the "silenced" setting on the collar.

I propose:

1. smaller gas-hole plug
2. a setting on the collar that provides complete blockage, meaning no gas vented to the atmosphere

With those two changes I think the FAL would make a kick-ass silencer host.

Your thoughts, gentlemen?

-T

shlomo
September 08, 2010, 07:51
Originally posted by Tyris


I've got the same can on my FAL. One of the problems we're trying to fix is to quiet down the FAL. The venting of gas straight to the atmosphere from the gas-block makes it a poor silencer host (but still worth it for shits and grins :D :D ).

The working theory is that a smaller hole in the gas-plug will still provide plenty of pressure to operate the action, and yet be quieter as we're venting less. I suspect there is something we've missed though and need in addition to the small hole gas-plug. We need a way to block or limit the venting to atmosphere from the adjustable collar.

I propose:

1. smaller gas-hole plug
2. a setting on the collar that provides complete blockage, meaning no gas vented to the atmosphere

With those two changes I think the FAL would make a kick-ass silencer host.

Your thoughts, gentlemen?

-T

Well, for one thing, the notch in the end of the plug could be eliminated. That's what directs the excess gas to the vent hole. It would render the custom plug that much simpler to make.

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 08:13
I love design simplifications :D :D

-T

gunplumber
September 08, 2010, 10:56
Originally posted by richbug
Drill and tap the port in your existing gas plug to 8-32 or thereabouts. Install a set screw that has had an appropriate sized hole drilled through it. Test fire, if it works as intended, solder in place.

The setscrew will give more "bite" than a simple pressed in sleeve.

This has been done on garands and may be fine for determining size, but if it turns out there is an ideal size, it seems to me that welding would be easier.

gunplumber
September 08, 2010, 10:59
another option it to change the focus to the piston (or combine with piston). One of the pistons POF prototyped for suppressors on their .308 AR had holes in it to vent any gas after it started moving.

shlomo
September 08, 2010, 11:18
GP--

Would the piston venting have the same noise problem as the vent hole/gas adjustment sleeve venting that is the cause of the discussion?

I am not a "can" man myself, and am not really sure what the cause of the excess gas is. Again, is it the retention and backpressure of the can that amplifies it? Or just that these guys close down the sleeve all the way to prevent the noise of venting?

This is a bit intriguing, but I don't really have time to waste by running in the wrong direction.

gunplumber
September 08, 2010, 11:42
Originally posted by shlomo
GP--

Would the piston venting have the same noise problem as the vent hole/gas adjustment sleeve venting that is the cause of the discussion?

probably, but I was thinking just about abating the over-pressured piston, not the sound.

Vent it into baffled handguards.

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 11:46
Originally posted by shlomo
Would the piston venting have the same noise problem as the vent hole/gas adjustment sleeve venting that is the cause of the discussion?

I am not a "can" man myself, and am not really sure what the cause of the excess gas is. Again, is it the retention and backpressure of the can that amplifies it? Or just that these guys close down the sleeve all the way to prevent the noise of venting?


All silencers hold a volume of compressed gas for a moment, and dump it in both directions: back up the barrel via gas port, out of the chamber during extraction, and out of the front. In the FAL, addition of the silencer really did not make much of a difference as far as function, and I can deal with the gas-in-the-eye caused by the scope mount in other ways via plugs, or wrapping it with a cloth. The internals get dirty quickly, but I like the fal action as it is robust enough to tolerate this, ditto for an AK with a silencer. Both just keep on chuggin'.

My interest is completely in noise abatement for the time being. Mine ran just fine with no changes to the regulator settings when using the silencer, I found no need to open or close it. Function was excellent and I did not notice any big increase in recoil (I run mine a little hot on the gas anyways).

I am starting to doubt that a switchable gas plug (normal / silenced) can be made. As you pointed out above, gas hitting the under-side of the sight assembly would probably be bad.

Right now I think the easiest solution is a suppresed-only simplified gas-plug with smaller hole and no vent notch.

An ideal solution might be some method to incorporate a tune-able screw into the gas-system so it can be set from normal to reduced-gas. Like a noveske switch-block.

I don't have my FAL handy, so no idea if there is any room for such a solution to work, but it would solve the vent problem, and retain the tuning features of the fal gas-system.

Anyone want to hazard a guess if this is plausible?

-T

ggiilliiee
September 08, 2010, 11:59
vent it into the suppressor...rite at the back of the unit ...give ya the back pressure ya need for cyclic ...

..and ya cant "silence" anything over 700FPS ...and yer not holding anything ..yer just slowing the gasses ...not trying to contain them ...gasses coming out are fine if they are below 700FPS ..
bet yer action makes more noise than the vent hole ...

shlomo
September 08, 2010, 12:09
Originally posted by Tyris

An ideal solution might be some method to incorporate a tune-able screw into the gas-system so it can be set from normal to reduced-gas. Like a noveske switch-block.

I don't have my FAL handy, so no idea if there is any room for such a solution to work, but it would solve the vent problem, and retain the tuning features of the fal gas-system.

Anyone want to hazard a guess if this is plausible?

-T

One possible way would be to thread the main gas hole (the one in line with the piston axis) for a hollow setscrew that is drilled thru its own axis. The screw would be run in or out in the gasplug bore, so that its end partially occludes the gas vent hole. This would not be "field convenient", but it would be no big deal to set the gun up prior. The other trick would be keeping the screw from backing out. Maybe a jam screw on top of it, like the Schuster plug for the Garand that GP mentioned.

Was that clear as mud?

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 12:11
Originally posted by ggiilliiee
vent it into the suppressor...rite at the back of the unit ...give ya the back pressure ya need for cyclic ...

..and ya cant "silence" anything over 700FPS ...and yer not holding anything ..yer just slowing the gasses ...not trying to contain them ...gasses coming out are fine if they are below 700FPS ..

The only way to vent back into the silencer would be to encompass the gas regulation system in a large integral silencer. While that would be all kinds of kick-ass goodness from an engineering standpoint, it is not within the scope of my immediate project which is to quiet down the gun with a removable can.

Regarding the 700 ft/sec -- Any time you add a silencer to a gun it makes a notable difference. It turns a ear-drum shattering 308 boom into a 1/4 second hiss from an air hose along with a supersonic crack. Well designed silencers work and I've found them worth the trouble.

I don't know where in Oregon you are Ghilliiee, but join me at the range for a day and you'll see why I like cans so much.

-T

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 12:15
Originally posted by shlomo
Was that clear as mud?

No, that was fine, I follow you.

How about this: What happens if we incorporate the screw mechanism into the notchless gas-plug itself? Basically add an adjustable screw into the front of the gas plug. This avoids the necessity of drilling the gas-block, and retains the ability to adjust the gas on the FAL, just in a different manner than using the collar.

sound plausible and relatively painless with no major mods to the rifle?

-T

shlomo
September 08, 2010, 12:19
...if ya don't line-bore yer silencer, it'll sound "off"... everybody knows that except Dubya and GP...hehe...vent yer bleed hole into the can with some rubber hose, like a water-cooled sheen gun... hehe...


:wink: :devil:

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 12:20
Originally posted by ggiilliiee
bet yer action makes more noise than the vent hole ...

The noises are different. I experienced this when my local 07/02 dealer and I silenced my 5.45 AK. The loudest noise by far was the gas venting from the 4 holes on the AK gas block. Action noise was not nearly enough to ring my ears, but the venting gas was.

We ended up welding the gas vent holes and beefed up the recoil spring with a Wolff +15%. The gun still functioned fine with and without the silencer.

-T

shlomo
September 08, 2010, 12:24
Originally posted by Tyris


No, that was fine, I follow you.

How about this: What happens if we incorporate the screw mechanism into the notchless gas-plug itself? Basically add an adjustable screw into the front of the gas plug. This avoids the necessity of drilling the gas-block, and retains the ability to adjust the gas on the FAL, just in a different manner than using the collar.

sound plausible and relatively painless with no major mods to the rifle?

-T

That's pretty much what I was saying. Hollow setscrew in the custom notchless plug. Only diff was that I was thinking installing the screw and stopscrew from the rear, as opposed to the front--which is what I think you're describing. The front actually makes more sense in a certain way, since the screw(s) wouldn't have to be hollow.

Lemme think on this a while.

gunplumber
September 08, 2010, 12:28
I've been thinking about a 5.45 can just for kicks. Just trying to decide between a PBS-5 style for looks or a PBS-1 for convenience. What are you using on your 5.45?

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 12:33
Originally posted by gunplumber
I've been thinking about a 5.45 can just for kicks. Just trying to decide between a PBS-5 style for looks or a PBS-1 for convenience.

I used a 223 can for availability. It does triple duty on my AUG, rem700 and 545 AK :D :D

-T

Tyris
September 08, 2010, 12:38
Originally posted by shlomo


That's pretty much what I was saying. Hollow setscrew in the custom notchless plug. Only diff was that I was thinking installing the screw and stopscrew from the rear, as opposed to the front--which is what I think you're describing. The front actually makes more sense in a certain way, since the screw(s) wouldn't have to be hollow.

Lemme think on this a while.

I think we're on the same page now. I think I misread the part about threading the main gas-hole in your post.

The reason I favor the front for the screw is it will allow some degree of field adjustment, even if it requires a small screw driver or some tool.

-T

gunplumber
September 08, 2010, 12:55
The only thing making the front inaccessible is the spring loaded plunger. The only reason for the spring loaded plunger is to index the plug. So with a different method of indexing the plug, the cylinder is free for modification. At that point, almost easier to make a new one from scratch.

I am looking for a better picture, but since POFs use a FAL type piston (Frank prototyped them in my shop from StG components) they are worth looking at. Here the end of the piston is reversible. Need a better pic, but IIRC it was a tappet system like the SKS/G36/tokarov '38

http://www.pof-usa.net/technical/correctorientation.jpg

shlomo
September 08, 2010, 13:03
Originally posted by Tyris


I think we're on the same page now. I think I misread the part about threading the main gas-hole in your post.

The reason I favor the front for the screw is it will allow some degree of field adjustment, even if it requires a small screw driver or some tool.

-T

Well, the chief obstacle to the front adjustment is the springloaded retainer button, which has a shaft that crosses thru the front of the plug right in front of the area we're talking about. That's what I'm pondering right now-- how to lock it in the block.

ETA--looks like GP and I crossposted the same thing.

I'm actually working on a scratch made plug right now.

gunplumber
September 08, 2010, 13:31
there was once an adjustable galil gas piston - two piece threaded. Supposedly the OAL length of the piston would control the amount of gas pressure. Not sure how well it worked. Problems with 2 piece pistons on the FAL are pretty well documented. Although maybe it was shoddy workmanship not the principle.

Dopavash
September 08, 2010, 14:11
Originally posted by shlomo


Well, the chief obstacle to the front adjustment is the springloaded retainer button, which has a shaft that crosses thru the front of the plug right in front of the area we're talking about. That's what I'm pondering right now-- how to lock it in the block.

ETA--looks like GP and I crossposted the same thing.

I'm actually working on a scratch made plug right now.

An oval cut in the shaft of the button would allow a sleeve/screwshaft to be mounted in it and retain the motion of the button. I bet it still conflicts with the spring, however.

shlomo
September 08, 2010, 18:38
Well, here's the plug blank, sans vent holes and lock button. Already tried it in the Imblel block, and it fits like the original. Soon as we figure out which way to jump with the vent system, I'll get on it.

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/8596/021qn.jpg (http://img199.imageshack.us/i/021qn.jpg/)

stimpsonjcat
September 08, 2010, 19:48
How did I miss this thread?

I have made several of these now. I grind out the area around the hole in the plug, weld it over, anneal, and then redrill with a smaller bit. I also weld up the notch that normally allows gas to escape at the collar.

The gas piston idea will work, but the problem is the high-pressure gas coming out the bleed hole makes NOISE. So the best solution IMHO is to limit the gas getting into the gas system and try to use it all to move the piston.

The new hole I settled on was about half the size of the original...somewhere around 0.06" IIRC.

My FAL functions fine with my home brewed can with this plug, but even so I think it is borderline hearing safe. It is still noticeably quieter on the grenade setting.

The ultimate solution would be a custom gas tube with no bleed holes and a custom plug with a hole only just big enough to cycle.

shlomo
September 08, 2010, 19:57
So, Stimp,

Are you saying that even with the notch welded shut and the gas ring closed down, you still get gas out of the regulator? Enough to be a noise problem?

stimpsonjcat
September 08, 2010, 19:57
Oh Shlomo the plug is niiiiice!

I like the idea of the front adjust gas plug!

I'll spend some clock cycles on the retention method also.

stimpsonjcat
September 08, 2010, 20:00
Maybe, not sure where it escapes, my bet is at the gas tube holes, as I thought it was fairly quiet and the guy to my right thought it was loud.

So I probably need to try a smaller plug hole with a holeless tube.

I think this is like standing to the right of a suppressed AR, you get high pressure gas out of the bolt holes and it is louder there.

Oh hey, I wonder if I could make a tube with an xternal sleeve that could close over the holes in suppressor mode? Take an existing tube, add 2 notches, then make a sleeve that has a part outside the handguard joint for adjustment.

I'll F with this after I get the Bren refinished.

stimpsonjcat
September 09, 2010, 19:21
http://home.windstream.net/jbperry/4dl/Izzywcan.jpg

stimpsonjcat
September 09, 2010, 19:48
I thought up a solution for the gas plug I think would work.

http://home.windstream.net/jbperry/4dl/gasplug.jpg

Essentially we make a piece that is cyndrilical, fits inside the existing cylinder in the gas plug, has a smaller diameter shaft that extends thru the front of the plug that allows it to be rotated to one of two positions for minimal or standard gas.

Of course this omits the hard part of making the inner device stay put and the plug itself stay put, but it solves the gas selection criteria externally and follows the WECSOG rules of modifying the cheap part.

shlomo
September 09, 2010, 22:14
Way more complicated than what I had in mind, Stimp, but along the same line.

I had just thought of boring the hole all the way thru, and tapping the front part. Then make and install a sort of rod that is unthreaded on the back end, and has a section of threads on the front end. Kinda like a 1" hex pocket setscrew with the threads turned off the rear part, leaving a cylinder to match the bore of the plug where the gas port is. It could be turned in and out of the plug with an allen wrench, to partially occlude the gas port.

tac-40
September 09, 2010, 22:35
Why try to make a dual purpose plug. You have to install and seat the supressor and that is not very fast if it is threaded on, faster if you are using a QD brake/hider. Just make a dedicated plug for use with the supressor. Add one of the DSA levers actuators for a tactile indicator of which way it needs to go.

stimpy's idea of an outer sleeve on the gas tube is great and it can be vented towards the rear to keep the gas from blowing in your face. Moving it can be simple. Weld a small handle to it perpendicular to the axis. Cut a corresponding slot in the hand guards with notches on either end. Rotate the hand up into the slot and slide the sleeve forward or back and then rotate the handle in to the other notch to lock it into place.

brunop
September 10, 2010, 02:18
If there is a cooler place on the entire internet, I've never heard of it.

Y'all kick ass, and I love this place.

Peace.

shlomo
September 10, 2010, 04:33
Originally posted by tac-40
Why try to make a dual purpose plug. You have to install and seat the supressor and that is not very fast if it is threaded on, faster if you are using a QD brake/hider. Just make a dedicated plug for use with the supressor. Add one of the DSA levers actuators for a tactile indicator of which way it needs to go.

stimpy's idea of an outer sleeve on the gas tube is great and it can be vented towards the rear to keep the gas from blowing in your face. Moving it can be simple. Weld a small handle to it perpendicular to the axis. Cut a corresponding slot in the hand guards with notches on either end. Rotate the hand up into the slot and slide the sleeve forward or back and then rotate the handle in to the other notch to lock it into place.

Tac,

Mine ain't dual purpose. It's just for this app. Hence, the scratch-built plug above with no notch. We're just hashing out the details of the (necessary, IMO) gas adjustment design.

Stimp,

Seems like a good way to test whether the noise is coming from the piston tube vent holes is to wrap a beer coozie around the grill area and see what, if any, diff it makes in the sound volume.

Brunop,

I don't know why they even let a guy like me hang around.

:rofl:

shlomo
September 10, 2010, 06:12
I think I have an idea for the retainer button. Gonna do some dimension checking this evening to see if it's workable.

I do all my best thinkin' on the Throne. :shades:

stimpsonjcat
September 10, 2010, 11:24
Well *I* already have a 'simple' solution...was just trying to make life easier for those following along.

As to the sleeve, it'll be even easier for me as my modified HB handguards already have a lovely opening on the top letting me access the gas tube.

Just had another thought. Same design I had above, but with the half-cylinder set to move IN or OUT on the plunger, then cut two hlaf cuts in the shaft where it passes the existing rod in the spring detent, then cut the rod in the spring detent to match the shaft cuts for position retention.

So to adjust normal or suppressed, depress the existing detent on plug and push or pull on the shaft to adjust the position of the half-cylinder.

gunplumber
September 10, 2010, 11:44
sketch?

tac-40
September 10, 2010, 19:19
stimpy, that sounds like a good idea. How is the recoil on a canned FAL? I know they say a can reduces it significantly. The reason I ask is how will you keep the pin in the proper position (min or max) under recoil since you can't spring load it like a normal plug.

shlomo
September 10, 2010, 19:45
Hmph. Jilted.

Ya'll three kin smooch my pimply butt. I'm gonna go it alone then, and we'll see who laughs last.

:wink:

tac-40
September 12, 2010, 09:48
I had to make nice with him since he was coming to moses' match. You could have come along too. You sure missed some outstanding shooting. We didn't talk too much gun stuff except for the Bren build and his Kfal.

OBTW, if you ever shoot with Rob, don't use his sight dope. It ain't right.:D :biggrin: :rofl:

L Haney
September 12, 2010, 10:55
Originally posted by tac-40
The reason I ask is how will you keep the pin in the proper position (min or max) under recoil since you can't spring load it like a normal plug.

Tac, re-read what he said above. He's gonna' put recesses in the plunger shaft that will get captured by the existing button. That is simple and most elegant. Got some smart fellers on here. Meanwhile, Shlomo sits on the porcelain lazyboy and cogitates swarf. I think the world is revolving smoothly again.

stimpsonjcat
September 12, 2010, 18:36
Originally posted by L Haney


Tac, re-read what he said above. He's gonna' put recesses in the plunger shaft that will get captured by the existing button. That is simple and most elegant. Got some smart fellers on here. Meanwhile, Shlomo sits on the porcelain lazyboy and cogitates swarf. I think the world is revolving smoothly again.

That is a fine piece of summation there El.

'cogitates swarf' I LOLZD...ain't that the truth.

Don't get all butt-hurt big guy, your from scratch plug has me drooling.

shlomo
September 12, 2010, 19:37
:D ;)

tac-40
September 13, 2010, 11:18
Yep, it was late and I was tired. Reread it and it is perfectly clear. My confusion stemmed from his drawing of the rotating cylinder and his description of the sliding cylinder. I was trying to combine the two in my thinking. Didn't workl.

And lay off the literary imagery of shlomo at rest. I think I popped a few brain cells when that picture came into the mental view port.:rofl:

stimpsonjcat
September 13, 2010, 18:58
Oh I finally see why Shlo was upset.

Top post this page was pointing out that the parts I already made work fine...not trying to say the new nonsense I am spouting is better than your designs.

Heck at this point I don't even have a spare plug to butcher.

shlomo
September 13, 2010, 19:10
I warn't upset. Hence the winky-face.

But you're right--I thought you were talking about the drawing you showed on the previous page. I just figgered all three of ya's were hot on that design, which did make me wonder a bit...

In any case, since that wasn't the case, ya'll kin UNsmooch my pimply butt.

I have not yet made a trip to the ironmonger for some suitable setscrews, but I have been measuring and mulling....

lew
January 22, 2011, 11:57
Any suppressors out there that fit on the combo device? I really don't want to alter the rifle's current state. Figured I could throw a combo device on a planned bolt action as well to be able to switch between the two. Once I move out of this God-forsaken state, a couple of cans are on the list.

Scott V2
January 23, 2011, 09:51
Yankee Machine has a can that has an adapter to fit standard FAL threads.

I have been in OH for over a year now and am considering a can. The county I am in requires the LEO to sign permits regardless of their personal feelings, unless you have a record of some sort:shades:

I want to try a suppressed FAL before I spring for a can. I have been told it helps with noise levels, but that hearing protection is still necessary. If that is the case, I will probably pass

lew
January 23, 2011, 16:41
I welcome any sound reduction. My hearing is very resilient. Loud music doesn't bother me one bit, but a gunshot even with muffs and plugs is still slightly uncomfortable to me. Plus, I could whip up some subsonic loads to help out.

Do you know how solidly they mount, i.e. suitable for precision shooting with the bolt gun?

LAFAL
January 23, 2011, 22:34
I have a YHM 7.62 stainless and a 5.56 coming- hopefully will go pending in a few weeks. I ordered the M1-A, FAL and standard adapters for my .308s. The FAL one is wicked- has sharp pointy teeth on the end. The M1A one has a standalone front sight base that I'm assuming you have to index to 12 Oclock and will nest against the back of the adapter. I've found some subsonic load data on the web and there are some nice Utube vids of suppressed FALs, bolt guns etc with the YHM units.

Artful
January 24, 2011, 01:24
The Yankee Hill Machine replaces your combo flash suppressor - It should be good for precison shooting - I use my AAC Cyclone on both my FAL and my Remington 700V bolt action - mine is threaded 5/8x24 so I had adaptor made from standard FAL 9/16 to 5/8 - the main advantage of YHM is quicker thread on and off than standard 24 or 28 TPI.

As far as noise reduction it goes from standard 160+ impluse to 120+ impluse but still louder than a unsupressed 22 pistol - the smaller the cartridge the less powder the less nose and the smaller the diam of the bullet hole the less noise will be also.

Subsonic load data can be found but just be careful of powder position in the case as velocity can vary much between shooting uphill and down hill.

LAFAL
January 24, 2011, 06:33
So your powder should fill the case or can you use a fiber filler on top of the powder? Would the unburned filler fill or clog the baffles?

lew
January 24, 2011, 08:44
Originally posted by Artful
The Yankee Hill Machine replaces your combo flash suppressor - It should be good for precison shooting - I use my AAC Cyclone on both my FAL and my Remington 700V bolt action - mine is threaded 5/8x24 so I had adaptor made from standard FAL 9/16 to 5/8 - the main advantage of YHM is quicker thread on and off than standard 24 or 28 TPI.

As far as noise reduction it goes from standard 160+ impluse to 120+ impluse but still louder than a unsupressed 22 pistol - the smaller the cartridge the less powder the less nose and the smaller the diam of the bullet hole the less noise will be also.

Subsonic load data can be found but just be careful of powder position in the case as velocity can vary much between shooting uphill and down hill.

Well shit. I'm trying to keep the combo device in place. I hate to alter an original piece (the rifle) if I don't have to.

Got it on the subsonic loads. Any favorites you'd care to share?

What about this one: Advanced Armament 762-SD (http://www.advanced-armament.com/product.aspx?pid=194)

stimpsonjcat
January 24, 2011, 12:19
There's more to making it queit than just the can.

Here's some light reading:

http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=295677

lew
January 24, 2011, 15:45
The thought on gas venting had crossed my mind. Good to know folks with more machining experience than I are working on it.

Artful
January 25, 2011, 02:24
Originally posted by lew


Well shit. I'm trying to keep the combo device in place. I hate to alter an original piece (the rifle) if I don't have to.

Got it on the subsonic loads. Any favorites you'd care to share?

What about this one: Advanced Armament 762-SD (http://www.advanced-armament.com/product.aspx?pid=194)

Nope not that one - most 30 cans require either thread on barrel or special flash hider adaptor - there are some cans that use a standard A2 flash hider as the mount - SRT Patents-Pending Atlas Universal mount (AU2) which attaches the 223 Typhoon suppressor to any Mil-Spec A2 flash hider. Gemtech's 223 Halo is another, and Coastal Extreme Duty 5.56mm Suppressor with Flash Hider Mount.

But I don't know of any 30 cal can's doing it.

Oh an put your gas on Grenade - give you a straight pull rifle with no gas venting except thru the suppressor. :rofl:

lew
January 25, 2011, 08:27
Damn. That stinks. Think anyone would be willing to whip up a custom? As you can see, I'm really loathe to "butcher" my FAL by dickin' with the muzzle device. Might just say "screw it" and get a can solely for the bolt gun. Of course, this all based on my ability to leave this state (MI), or, by some divine stroke of intervention, us peons are allowed the fun stuff, but that's not gonna happen anytime soon.

Artful
January 25, 2011, 11:18
Doubt Gemtech would be interested but try Doug at SRT, he does custom stuff pretty regularly - I'd check out his thoughts and get his 30 cal Shadow XL Titanium and see if he would make up something that would work for ya. Then of course you need to put a Combo flash hider on your bolt gun. :biggrin:

I wouldn't give up on being suppressed, here's mine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMIomwkvyBQ

as for reloading subsonic 308 try this tread
http://www.quarterbore.net/forums/showthread.php?t=280

another comparison from someone else
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27xXvaZYjmA

remember the video's you watch do not capture all the sound
so be aware reality doesn't match what you hear thru your speakers.

lew
January 25, 2011, 13:12
Originally posted by Artful
Then of course you need to put a Combo flash hider on your bolt gun. :biggrin:

Oh no. Please don't make me do that. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D

I like somethin' hangin' off the end. Naked muzzles look weird The combo device looks the best, IMO. Probably have iron sights on it, in addition to the scope, simply cuz I like my irons. I may as well have fun with the project.

I'll be sure to give the lad at SRT a holler.

Between the suppressor, subsonic loads, and a modified gas plug (following Stimp, et al's thread there), it's off to the races. Should be a fairly quiet beast when all is said and done. Not Hollywood type, but enough so anyone outside the immediate vicinity won't raise an eyebrow.

Thanks to the lot o' ya. Now I have somewhere to start from.:beer:

Artful
January 26, 2011, 01:30
Originally posted by lew


Oh no. Please don't make me do that. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D

I like somethin' hangin' off the end. Naked muzzles look weird The combo device looks the best, IMO. Probably have iron sights on it, in addition to the scope, simply cuz I like my irons. I may as well have fun with the project.


http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/4374/dsc06117.jpg

Yep it does look different but you have to love our little custom excursions.
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/5726/dsc05652sw2.jpg

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/7485/dsc05617nk5.jpg

I thougt of another custom suppressor maker David Saylor at Liberty Suppressors.

lew
January 26, 2011, 07:32
What caliber's the Winchester (?)? As for the M38, why would you want to cover up most of the fireball?! :mad: :biggrin: And what muzzle device is that on the FAL?

Artful
January 26, 2011, 12:23
The Mauser is 7.62x39 using WASR mags, the flashhider is turned in (built into) the barrel not an add on.

M38 scout is just for fun. As I get older I like quiet more.

The FAL and the M38 are both showing AAC Cyclone Can mounted (same can you just moved between guns)

lew
January 27, 2011, 08:13
Neat sticks. I like the Mauser. Well, I kinda like 'em all. What year's the M38?

Artful
January 28, 2011, 13:55
1943

BlasterLP
February 19, 2011, 16:24
To bring this thread back to life, has any further work been done on this?

Is a custom made gas plug for suppressor use the way to go?

Venting into baffled handguards looks promising also!

4 brigada
February 20, 2011, 13:26
I have been reading this thread with great interest, and have a question on the ammo that will be used in the application. Is the solution sought for FALs using standard issue ammo or for subsonic ammo?

4 brigada
February 20, 2011, 20:38
I don't think subsonic ammo was in play.

I'm not a rocket surgeon , but the reduced load of subsonic ammo , would certainly play a role in gas port apertures. How about expanding the volume in the gas plug by reducing the wall thickness, it would reduced the pressure/velocity of the gas, and less pressure to vent out and less speed of the gases venting is certainly quieter. My 0.50 of a cent worth since times are tough.

toyotaman
April 25, 2011, 14:49
I'm looking to order a YHM Phantom to put on my FAL in the next week or so.

Is this usually no problem to do? Are they problems with the gas system that may crop of and what are the likely fixes?

Thanks.

jaykden
April 25, 2011, 15:09
i have a YHM phantom on the way, its mainly going to be riding on the AR in 300blackout, but i am planning on adding a QD hider to the FAL too.

here is some interesting reading as far as adding a can to an FAL:

http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=303747


http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=295677


there is some info about converting the gas plug that i'm wondering about....

jaykden
April 25, 2011, 15:18
another good thread to read:

http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=286840

toyotaman
April 25, 2011, 16:44
Thanks for the links.

Just a cursory glance at those threads makes me reconsider doing this at all.

I'm not a machinist and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

I may be in over my head. I was hoping to just have to thread the barrel install the Phantom Flash Hider QD and be done with it.

jaykden
April 25, 2011, 17:22
hey! don't throw in the towel just yet. you *may* be ok just by opening your gas all the way, at least to start with.

maybe see if someone will convert a gas plug for you. i'm going to ask around myself since i don't weld.

it'd be simple, a standard gas plug for shooting unsuppressed, and one that you can switch out when you use the can.

seems simple enough.

stimpsonjcat
April 28, 2011, 15:26
The plug mod is simple and I would be glad to do it for anyone here on the files.

Liff
May 05, 2011, 16:04
DSA 16 inch barrel + Gemtech HVT QD mount = gas not open all the way, functions great.

DSA 21 inch barrel + Gemtech HVT QD mount = gas not open all the way, functions great.

For me with that can and those rifle combinations, it was not that big of an issue. I just open the gas a bit and they work great.

tdb59
May 08, 2011, 23:43
How about making this and the 3 threads noted inside into a 'condensed' Sticky? Lots of great detail and tech, along with emperical data[stuff what works] Thoughts? :?

jaykden
May 09, 2011, 01:57
since i'm, not a mod in this forum (yet), i asked someone to help out because i too, think these threads should be merged and stickied.

AndyC
May 10, 2011, 01:24
Various threads merged and then stickied as requested.

jaykden
May 10, 2011, 02:08
thanks andy!

ByrnieMac
November 29, 2012, 07:22
Suppressed FALs look so nasty

Tyris
December 26, 2012, 23:10
some gratuitous pics, long over due for this thread.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj319/Fritz187/freefloater/IMG_0895.jpg
http://oi40.tinypic.com/bfgq44.jpg

-T

stimpsonjcat
December 28, 2012, 15:17
http://home.windstream.net/jbperry/4dl/Izzywcan.jpg

Thorack
March 16, 2013, 22:21
OK,

If I want to get my new 17 3/8 inch para a can, whats the best and most affordable QD flash hider and can combo? Looks like this is at least about a $1000 proposition. The $1k is for a gemtech setup, is there a cheaper setup thats just as good?

Thorack

yellowfin
July 11, 2013, 11:39
OK,

If I want to get my new 17 3/8 inch para a can, whats the best and most affordable QD flash hider and can combo? Looks like this is at least about a $1000 proposition. The $1k is for a gemtech setup, is there a cheaper setup thats just as good?

ThorackDepending on what price your local dealer may offer, an AAC 762SD could be within that price range and is a proven winner for a lot of people.

idsubgun
July 11, 2013, 12:38
I'm sure this has been addressed but what is everyone doing for an adjustable gas system, or is one even needed on a FAL?

Yes, I am too lazy to use the search function right now. :tongue:

Rudolf
December 02, 2013, 11:28
I have a thread adapter for use on my inch rifle.

it works but it is very violent ejection.

wonderdog451
February 21, 2014, 23:31
I was wondering if there was a final consensus on the suppressed FN-FAL.
1- Does it function best with full-power or sub-sonic ammunition?
2- Is the plug mod necessary?
3 Are there any other modifications needed/recommended in order to ensure reliable feed, function and accuracy?

wheat
February 24, 2014, 16:32
My 11" runs ok with can and reg 308, haven't worked up subsonic loads yet.
I am still very interested in modified gas plug because I still have to open it up a lot to keep it from slamming.

smokingun45
February 26, 2014, 18:49
I just tried my DSA short gas FAL with my YHM Ti 7.62 suppressor and with the gas port full open, lots of gas bleeding out the ejection port. Recoil seems harsher than normal. I'm a lefty, which exacerbates the situation.

I'm interested in the custom gas plug and wonder if anyone sells or modifies one?
:smile:

stimpsonjcat
February 27, 2014, 22:55
I just tried my DSA short gas FAL with my YHM Ti 7.62 suppressor and with the gas port full open, lots of gas bleeding out the ejection port. Recoil seems harsher than normal. I'm a lefty, which exacerbates the situation.

I'm interested in the custom gas plug and wonder if anyone sells or modifies one?
:smile:

Send me a spare, yes SPARE, plug and I will mod it for free.

smokingun45
February 28, 2014, 22:21
Thank You, stimpsonjcat, for your very generous offer. I sent you a PM.
Gas plug sent!

stimpsonjcat
March 13, 2014, 22:57
All recently modded plugs are outbound.

I would appreciate feedback on these if possible. Here in the thread or via PM.

Stranger
March 14, 2014, 08:02
All recently modded plugs are outbound.

I would appreciate feedback on these if possible. Here in the thread or via PM.

Stimpy, is this something you are still willing to do? I finally decided to try out my 308 can on my FAL.

stimpsonjcat
March 20, 2014, 10:38
Yep, send me a spare plug...I'll weld it...grind it...drill it, and send it back...no charge.

Again, for clarity, the modded plug will NOT allow a FAL to cycle WITHOUT the can installed. So you need 2 plugs, one modded, and one un-modded.

smokingun45
March 20, 2014, 21:12
Got mine back today. I will try it out tomorrow morning with my YHM Ti 7.62 and report back. Thank You stimpsonjcat! :bow:

smokingun45
March 21, 2014, 17:52
The moded gas plug worked fine with Port ammo. It felt like a normal recoil impulse and a lot less gas & crap from the ejection port.

I needed to polish one small high spot with a Cratex wheel to fit my gas block.

Thank You stimpsonjcat!

Dirt1042
April 10, 2014, 17:29
Just got an 18" inch barrel and acquired a para lower. The guy I got the lower from had issues shooting suppressed with it. I'm not sure what gas setting he had or barrel length.

I'm planning on getting an AAC can for a black out build so I may as well spin on some AAC FHs on a couple .308s I have. Anybody run this set up with an FAL and have any issues or tips for me to try before I spend the $?

Just found out bbl length was 18" and ammo used was DAG, SA and R.G.

stimpsonjcat
April 21, 2014, 16:00
The moded gas plug worked fine with Port ammo. It felt like a normal recoil impulse and a lot less gas & crap from the ejection port.

I needed to polish one small high spot with a Cratex wheel to fit my gas block.

Thank You stimpsonjcat!

Hmmm...I'll check my test block.

Might just make a test tube to slide them into...have to look up the spec ID on the gas block I reckon.

Glad to see another satisfied user!

Tommyguns
July 10, 2014, 13:45
Just found this thread and will follow with great interest. Would like to use direct thread Cyclone(5/8X24) on Belgium Fal, I think I need 9/16X24LH adapter. Not sure, cant get long thin hider off ! Checked on hi-desertdog site and couldnt find adapter. Any ideas ! Thanks, TG

Artful
July 10, 2014, 20:06
Just found this thread and will follow with great interest. Would like to use direct thread Cyclone(5/8X24) on Belgium Fal, I think I need 9/16X24LH adapter. Not sure, cant get long thin hider off ! Checked on hi-desertdog site and couldnt find adapter. Any ideas ! Thanks, TG

What is your cyclone threaded for? 5/8x24 like mine?

Tommyguns
July 12, 2014, 13:29
Yes, 5/8X24. Its very heavy, Ill probably have a huge impact shift !

Artful
July 12, 2014, 19:29
Yes, yes you will - but it's repeatable - just write the mount in your log and
click over your scope / target sights.

So you need 9/16X24 inside and 5/8x24 outside

You can have any machine shop make one but the cost on a one off is going to be high - I found mine at one of the sights (from someone making thread adaptors for HK rifles and FAL's )

but Brownell's has them for $30
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/muzzle-parts/thread-adapters/muzzle-thread-adapter-1-2-28-to-5-8-24-sku100010536-54364-105317.aspx

of for twice as much (aka $60)
http://www.thesilencerstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=18&zenid=idhUSwB6,Pl94nrUJTsaT0

homelandprotector
July 14, 2014, 00:53
What a classic thread....we have ggiilliiee, Shlomo and Gunplumber all posting in civilized fashion, along with scintillating info on silencers....why don't we have someone here on the files making a Fal Specific silencer set up for sale with appropriate gas plug items included in purchase.

What a niche market that would be. :bow::wink:

Tommyguns
July 15, 2014, 16:22
Thanks artful, for the links. I had already spoken to them, the rub is, theyre not 9/16X24 LH, theyre RH. I called the manufac.(Precision) and spoke to the owner, he said they had no plans to make the LH pitch. Doesnt matter anyway, cant get that long, thin hider off ! Gotta keep trying. Do you have an adapter ? If so, whered you get it !

Artful
July 15, 2014, 21:01
I do have an adapter - I've had it a long time - it was made by a machinist/hobbyist who made one for my FAL and one for My HK91 and one for my AC556 - I'm not sure the board is even around anymore - I'd just talk to a local gunsmith or machine shop - Heck I need to get motivated as I need another on made for 12x1mm ID to 1/2x28 OD for my CZ52 in 9mm.

Tommyguns
July 16, 2014, 15:23
I checked with local assets about fabrication, looks like $180-$250 for special-order, Im gonna keep lookin ! Thanx for your help. TG

Artful
July 17, 2014, 00:37
Ha - from the way back machine (2004)

Longview Class III Arms
21852 FM 449 Suite A
Longview, TX 75605
Phone #: 903-918-0140
made my adapter and back then cost $85 ea
(I don't know if postage was extra)
give a call and see if they still make 'em

Some other places to check
they not list as standard item but may give a cheaper quote to make one
http://trosusa.com/
http://usmachinegun.com/products.php?cat=15

Tommyguns
July 20, 2014, 17:18
GREAT! Just made contact with a fella that has a buddy with good CNC equip. My contact just had a load dumped on him, he,s got entestine bug and his mom just past away. Will be 2-3 weeks before he comes up for air. If it turns out good, Ill let you know. Do you have specs for adapters you need ? I E-filed form 4 about 3 months ago so, I still have 1-2 months probably before my stamp comes back. after seein how lathered everyone gets about altering gas plugs, or loads, to make there guns run, it gave me an idea ! Theres a suppressor manufacturer about 60mi. from my house. if I can talk him into prototyping my idea, would you be interested in helping field-test it. if it works, now a fella can shoot his fal w/o having to alter first. Wish me luck!

Artful
July 21, 2014, 16:53
I have given this link before for spec's
http://www.silencertalk.com/AAC-thread-guide.pdf
http://www.newmantools.com/tech/threadmf.htm

My CZ52 needs outside as 1/2x28 class 3 and inside as 12x1 metric thread with RH twist

My Hipower needs outside as 1/2x28 class3 and inside as 1/2x40 both RH twist

Tommyguns
July 21, 2014, 17:11
got them. Ill keep you posted. Thanks again for all your help. TG