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View Full Version : M1917 Eddystone stock refurb


mikeb71
August 11, 2009, 14:50
Does anyone know of a company or person who can restore a M1917 stock to it's original finish? I have one that has been cleaned up and some sort of clear coat applied. I would like to have the clear coat removed and whatever the original means of preservation done to it. I'll also be wanting to get the action refinished (not the original finish on it right now) true to original specs.

johnnycobra
August 11, 2009, 15:47
I am not 100% sure of the finish on the stock - boiled linseed oil is probably the right finish - others may have better info.

Depending on your gun's originality you will either do WWI Blued, or WWII parkerizing.

Which are you going for?

tac-40
August 12, 2009, 17:36
The stock you can do yourself. Get a can of Citristrip spray from Walmart and use it to remove all of the old finish. It washes off with water and doesn't bleach the wood like some of the other strippers do. Let it dry slowley for a couple of days, but don't use heat which will cause it to check and crack. Some guys like to use Minwax mix of the walnut and mahogany to get the correct tint. But I have used Chestnut Ridge Military stock stain. It is an alcohol based stain that can be thinned down with alcohol and applied a little at a time to bring the color to what you like. After staining and stripping, use the 3M finishing pads to sand off the raised grain. These are available at Lowes, Home Depot and other stores. Once you are smooth, then you can apply the finish. I use Behr Tung Oil (again Lowes or Home Depot) instead of Boiled Linseed Oil. It is easier to apply and gives the same finish as BLO. I then go over each coat with the 3M pads. You will see the stock start to polish up and when that happens, I apply another coat of Tung Oil. I usually apply 5 or 6 coats of tung oil, with each coat applied heavily and allowed to soak in for about 20-30 minutes then the excess is wiped off and allowed to dry.

Doing the wood isn't hard, just take a few days because you have to wait for the stock to dry before going to the next step.

Here is a link to the Chestnut Ridge Stain: http://www.chestnutridge.com/images/inv/MAWAL1.asp

RG Coburn
August 23, 2009, 17:29
That Citristrip is good stuff. I took tac's advice,bought some for a stock and some Jeep parts I screwed the paint job on. Stripped the paint off without the burning of hands you get with zipstrip. A note..DO NOT use Citristrip on anything plastic with paint.It will goo up the plastic. I destroyed a pair of military tail lights today trying to strip old OD paint off them.

Goliad
August 25, 2009, 21:41
This has been covered ad-infinitum on the CMP board. Lots of good info there. The only thing I would add to Tac's advice is, a lot of the tung oil Finishes have varnish in them. A mix of pure tung oil and BLO seems to be closest to original, if more work. I like the chestnut ridge stains too.