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Temp
April 26, 2009, 23:36
,...a 148 grain hollow base wadcutter, a 920 page phone book,...and a new patch needed for the basement wall.

I had to try out my new single action .38 special.

"It's just a mid range wadcutter", I think. "I can just punch it into this here old phone book in the basement."

Lemme tell ya,....148 grains at 750 fps don't sound too exciting,..but you don't want to get in front of one of these things.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/FalMike/MVC-025S-1.jpg

Artful
April 27, 2009, 02:06
Speer plastic bullets or X-Ring rubber bullets for indoor use powered by primer only. :wink:

BUFF
April 27, 2009, 03:46
Originally posted by Artful:

"Speer plastic bullets or X-Ring rubber bullets for indoor use powered by primer only."

30 years ago, I load up 50 of the plastic Speers. I figure, with just a primer, just about anything will stop them, so I crumple up some newspaper (a couple of days' worth) and stuff it into a plastic wastepaper basket, tape a target over the top and lay the can on it's side on a fancy antique chair. Five shots later, my trash can had 5 holes in the bottom of it and the back of the chair was similarly perforated.

Whoops!

Temp
April 27, 2009, 11:36
I've shot mid range wadcutters into similiar thicknesses of old magazines taped together and other phone books of the same thickness and they provided enough to catch the bullet.

But the other revolvers were 4" K frames or 2" snubbies.

This new single action has a 5 1/2" barrel and a *very* tight cylinder gap.

After seeing how it punched that wadcutter through the phone book, I have to believe that it's going to produce very good velocity.

I think I'm going to enjoy playing with it. It's one of those Uberti single actions scaled down to about 3/4 scale and, as mentioned, chambered in .38 special,...about the same size as a Ruger Single Six,..but with much bigger holes in the barrel and cylinder.

I've got some LBT 160 grain WFN's ordered for it. Then it'll be time to go all Elmer Keith and break out the 2400.

"We're gonna need a bigger phone book!"

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/FalMike/MVC-026S-1.jpg

ggiilliiee
April 27, 2009, 14:09
hehe .in my early life defying days i used to hold a JC penney catalogue (1400 pages)up to my chest and let my buddy shoot me with a 22 cal ...895 pages ...quite a thump ....

im with artfull ...i make delrin wad cutters on the mini me lathe for the 45 ...one at a time of course ...magnum primer pushes them real nice ....try droppin a grain of powder in there along with the primer ... pumps them up ...hehe .wish i had a wheel gun to do some shootin in the yard ..
you can make an indoor shooting tube ...got one in the shop that will take a non ap 308 round ....just some steel pipe with a removable top assy full of old aramid flack jacket material and sand .....works verry well for test firing ..muzzle in the top hole ...sounds like someone hammering a nail ....neighbors dont even hear it ....pretty handy to have one as my only other choice is to drive 15 miles to the hill ..

lina
April 27, 2009, 22:01
Great idea. I was considering somthing similar but bigger with sandbags.

What is your source for the arimid fibers?

ggiilliiee
April 27, 2009, 22:34
lina ....got the jacket from a buddy in the military ....probably lots of things you could use .fiber wise anything with close denier weave ...
i wold just use some sand and some old clothes ..levis and such ...the bullet slows pretty quick in the sand the fibers are on top to defeat the blowback of the sand ..... mine is just schedule 80 8"pipe ..1"thick plate on the bottom (welded)...on the top another piece of sch 80 that the id fits over the od of the bottom ...then a plate on top of that with a 3" sch80 pipe in the center (hole thru top plate .....i just stand it up in the shop and tie a cord to the 2 ' on the top and when i need it just tip it on its side 45 (end of cord travel) and pop pop pop ....stand her up out of the way when done ...go to a steel recycle yard and youll probably make one real cheap ...steel is down now ...good time to buy ....hope this help ...can post a pic if my jibborish doesnt make any sense ....hehe

BUFF
April 28, 2009, 00:09
That's a pretty neat revolver there, Temp!

While in the police academy, I stopped in a local gunshop during lunch. They had a looked-like-new Colt SAA in .38 Special for $450 or so., I was really broke from buying new equipment and uniforms for my new job but have kicked myself ever since for not putting it on plastic and suffering the wrath at home. When I went back the next week to buy it, it was gone.

Temp
April 28, 2009, 09:45
You ought to check out some of the Italian repro stuff they're making today, BUFF. Of course, I'd seen them around for years and knew that they were pretty decent pieces of work, but the cowboy action shooting guys have really been a boon to the Italian gunmakers business and they really seem intent on keeping their customers happy.

I didn't know they had started making a scaled down SAA clone,..but when I saw one at the gunshop I had to give it a closer look. After feeling how well balanced it was with the 5.5" barrel and how nicely fitted it was, I decided "what the heck?,..I need a new .38 anyway".

They're not a Colt,...but their workmanship isn't *that* far off these days.

The only (piddlin) complaints I can find with it is, the checkering on the hammer spur isn't hand cut and the color case hardening on the frame could be brighter. The action felt just a little bit on the rough side at first, but it smoothed up considerably after working it a couple hundred cycles.

On the plus side, the revolver is fitted tight as a banjo string. The cylinder gap is virtually non existent, the grip frame is blended in very smoothly, and the grips fit the frame as nicely as any single action I've ever seen. Also,..even though the revolver exhibits a high polish on the metalwork, the edges are still very crisp and the bluing is very dark, glossy, and even. The trigger has just the smallest hint of creep and breaks very cleanly at what feels to be about 3 pounds.

They're not giving these things away,..but I got it for a bit under $400,..and considering what's happened to firearm prices lately, I don't think that's a bad deal for a steel and walnut revolver at this level of fit and finish.

mnop308
April 28, 2009, 18:16
Back about 1980 or so a friend and I were taking an advanced handgun course, and were trying to get in extra practice in his attic/reloading room. We were both shooting 38 Special DA revolvers. Needing feedback from the slow motion draw and double action trigger pulls, we loaded up wax bullets and shot them at a large box with some old towls backed up with a piece of heavy carpet scrap for anything that made it past the towels. Our instructor gave us a couple of tips on loading them, since apparently it was an old trick he and other exibition shooters back in the day used to use.

Simple to make, but if you try it, you are on your own. These are NOT toys, and they will hurt like hell if you get hit with one.

They are dirty, and they smell when you use them. You must also clean your gun completely after using even one of them. You can catch the wax bullets and reuse them several times by remelting. Eventually they get a lot of the primer compound in them and I think they become abrasive if you push the recycling too far.

You must dedicate brass cases to these loads only and never reload them with regular powder and bullet loads. I cannot stress how important this is!!!!!! I have only done this with 38 specials, so this is the only one I can describe. I used up a bunch of brass with split mouths and cut them down to a length below any of the splits. Overall case length does not matter that much but uniform is always good. Plus it helps to keep them segregated from good brass.

First, full lenght size your brass. You will not ever need to size it again.

Second, campher the case mouth inside and out, make knife type edge.

Third, drill out the flash hole of each case to make a little bigger flash hole. If you do not enlarge the flash hole, the primers will back out and tie up the cylinder against the recoil shield. Do not make the hole too big. You must leave enough to support the anvil against the bottom of the primer pocket.

Fourth, melt however much parafin wax you need in a double boiler arraingement, and pour it in a cheap pan so that you have a depth of about 1/2 of the case lenght.

Fifth, after the parafin starts to get solid, but while it is still warm, press your case mouths down into the parafin and let them stay until the parafin cools and becomes totally solid. After that you can then pull them out and wipe of the wax residue from the outside of the case if needed.

Sixth, and most important, ONLY NOW DO YOU PRIME THE CASES. Use your normal priming method. Standard primers are all you need. There is nothing to be gained by using magnum primers.

Other tips: candle wax is not good for this. You can deprime fired cases with a small nail to ready them for reloading. Accuracy is pretty good out to about 15 feet. POA/POI are different, you will need to put up an aiming point above your intended bullseye. They were a lot of fun, and a great training tool when we used them, but be damn careful when using them.

[486]
May 07, 2009, 19:41
Originally posted by Temp

Lemme tell ya,....148 grains at 750 fps don't sound too exciting,..but you don't want to get in front of one of these things.

Just yesterday I was surprised that a "wimpy" .22lr would go through 2 phone books, or 2 2x4s [the flat way]!

Made a bullet trap to shoot in the garage with, just for .22s, I ended up putting a few 2x4s in front of it to slow the bullets down before they hit the trap. I guess I'll just put a 3/16" steel plate in the back, instead of the 2x4s that were in it. :biggrin:

motosapien
May 08, 2009, 11:36
I'm partial to those 148 HBWC - load them up for my model 27 and it's like shooting a pellet gun. Accurate little buggers too. Perfect for dispatching backyard pests or small game hunting.