%^!@* Aussie Flash Hider

[Original_Sled_Dog]

I am so frustrated. I just got my flash hider for this Aussie rifle I've been building and I can't get the goddamn thing to time anywhere near correctly. No mater what I stick in there ("paperclip washer", 8mm lock washer) the ****sucker still times to 12:00 when I need it at 5:00.

I am so pissed off I have had to put it down for today. I just can't get this damn rifle finished! It's always something.

[rpk74dr]

is the timing washer in place(inside the flashider)?

[ActionYobbo]

take evertyhing out. leave the timing washer in there. now cut some discs of aluminum can and keep adding discs untill it times corectly. then add the number of discs to the number on the timing washer and thats the number you need ( you can also subtract the number)

[MAINER]

Sounds like the FH is just running out of threads before the washer butts up to the shoulder.

Just thinking out loud! :rolleyes:

[Andy the Aussie]

You DO have a timing washer in there at the start right ?

[Original_Sled_Dog]

Okay I've cooled off somewhat...:redface: :mad:

Timing washer, not the "lock washer with the pin" right? Fits inside the flash hider.

Let me back up here. This kit was one of the rusty F1 kits. It had the PNG flash hider. Barrel was torched. I was able to score a 1962 vintage barrel in good condition from ChefBeef. L/FN sent me a decent browning style FH. I was going to just use the PNG flash hider, it timed more closely to 6:00, but the lock washer slot was in the wrong place on the barrell . The Stub from the kit had two lock washer slots, one in the long flash hider spot, and one farther down the barrel for the PNG lock washer slot.

So yes, I have an timing washer, however it was from the PNG flash hider that came with my kit. It was an absolute nightmare to remove and was skinned up pretty good in the process. I just spent the evening removing it from the long flash hider. I'd say it looks more like a bushing than a washer, it's a good 1/8" thick or more. From what
ActionYobbo is saying I'm way outta bounds here if we're measuring in alum can thickness.

Another interesting note, the long FH does not go all the way back on the barrel to what I'll call the "relief cut" or where the barrel has been turned down just a hair. The PNG does. I'm not sure this matters at all.

The wierd thing is, it seems to time to the same spot, about 11:30, with or without the "washer". In fact with the washer made it time way short of the lock washer slot. without the washer it times to the 11:30 spot a little past the slot. One turn back and it is perfectly lined up with the slot.

So I guess this is the FAL gods way of telling me to back off, something isn't right.

So who has the indexing washers and how do I calculate what I need from scratch. This PNG flash hider "washer" is way off, made to compensate for a barrel modification, or I have managed to pry off something that wasn't meant to come out.

[Andy the Aussie]

Ok ....those washers came in around 13 different thicknesses so you could adjust the timing of the FH to where you needed. Now you also want it to be TIGHT not just "snicked up" to align with the keyway in your barrel. Any movement (however small) will play havoc on your accuracy. We made them out of brass for the comp rifles as they could be fitted and have a little crush action in fitting. I would start with something that gets you a little less (not as close) than where you need and start thinning it down.

OK your "Browning style" FH is off an L1A1 or C1 right ?

Andy:bigangel:

[Original_Sled_Dog]

OK your "Browning style" FH is off an L1A1 or C1 right ?

Yup, looks like a second pattern Aussie 5 slot. Threads are still fine, thank heavens. I think I just need the right timing washer.

[BUFF]

Pat Murphy (SLR-5000) has had them in the past. He probably does still have them.

[Andy the Aussie]

Originally posted by BUFF
Pat Murphy :rofl: :rofl: me thinks you must have Irish in the mind ... ;) Jones....:bigangel:

[torquemada055]

Pat Murphy

His last name is Jones, as in the Idaho Jones who get's mail in Wash.

Pat Jones
PO Box 142240
Spokane, WA 99214

[Falfegnügen]

You're not alone. I personally find this one of the most frustrating aspects of building a Commonwealth-pattern FAL.

Just some thoughts:

You are positive you have an L1A1 or C1 flash hider, and NOT a "Browning-Style" early FAL flash hider? Correct? The bayonet lug looks exactly like the L1A1 style? Sounds like are you are sure, but you did describe it as the "Browning-style", and although it is, using that term here on the board usually means the old early FN produced "Browning Style", and not the L1A1/C1 style.

Could you have two washers (spacers) inside the hider? I have done this before by accident. Sometimes the washer will be really stuck in there.

One thing that really helps is to have some form of punch or mandrel to help remove and install these washers. In the absense of the exact armorer's mandrel, my personal expedient tool is a simple punch. I find the transfer punches that Harbor Freight sells will work just fine. They don't cost much, and you can use them for the locking shoulder installation too. Use a 23/64 (0.358") punch to extract the washer. put the flash hider bottom-end down on a wooden block, place the punch in from the front, pointy end of the punch down, and tap with a small hammer. They usually pop right out in perfect condition.

Then, when assembling, use the 11/32 (0.342") transfer punch, placing the punch in the flash hider from the rear, pointy end up, and put washer over the punch, and while holding together, slide the flash hider on the barrel and press the punch up agains the muzzel lightly, then turn the flashhider on. The punch ensures the washer is well centered and doesn't get cock-eyed as you thread the hider on. Note that if it's a used washer, there will often be a slight ridge on one side, and the punch may only fit through from one side. I have not found this ridge to be a problem.

Also note that if it's a used washer, it's dimensions are not likely to be correct any more. That is it won't be the same as a new one after it's been squased inside the barrel for 50 years. The differences between the washer are very small, just a few thousandths.

If I were you, and my washer was buggered up on the inside, I would either get a new one, or clean up the old one. I think it needs to be nice and even and smooth, like the inside of the barrel, for best accuracy. Kind of like a good muzzle crown.

[bookertbab]

How many turns of the FH do you get with the spacer in and how many turns do you get with the spacer removed? It is possible that the spacer is just as think as a couple threads and it is causing it to time to the same spot. If that is the case just start to thin the spacer until it times where you want it.

[Original_Sled_Dog]

Thanks for the guidance Falfegnüge. Yeah this is an Aussie first or second pattern not a true "Browning style" in other words it's not a metric. I mis- identified it.

I'd love to buy the washers from Pat, and some other stuff, but he's had problems answering e-mails and being prompt. That makes me nervous.

I'm talking to L/FN, he has all the stuff to time it right, and he can check my barrel timing job while he's got it. (If he takes the job.)

Last night I discovered Gun Parts Guy sent me a British lower instead of an Aussie so now I have to take the lower apart and send it back to him.

In a couple of days I have gone from "it's finished" to...a cluster :tongue: "First build blues" I guess!

[BUFF]

Originally posted by Andy the Aussie:

" me thinks you must have Irish in the mind ... ;) Jones....:"

Hey, cut me some slack. It was 0-dark hundred when I wrote that!

[Original_Sled_Dog]

Well, maybe I should give old Pat a PM. Maybe I have the wrong end of the stick about him. He did make a post after the election of the anointed one that was funny as hell.

So help me calculate this guys:

Starting with the bayo lug at the proper 6:00 position, the flash hider will thread on 8 full turns. At just shy of 8 and a half it tightens (with no torque) to about the 11:50 - 11:55 position. If I back it off that half turn (to 8 full turns) it aligns perfectly with the lock washer slot.

What thickness timing washer do I need?

[Andy the Aussie]

Originally posted by BUFF
Originally posted by Andy the Aussie:

" me thinks you must have Irish in the mind ... ;) Jones....:"

Hey, cut me some slack. It was 0-dark hundred when I wrote that! ....I would have thought you would have worked enough late shifts to function well in the dark ... :p :p