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sfbadger
March 19, 2009, 18:11
I have an opportunity to purchase what I believe is called the SUIT system? A Trilux 4x scope and top cover, what are they worth, in supposedly working condition and obviously used?

I'm thinking I might like to include the system on my next Enfield L1A1 build?

Any opinions? :) Thanks

brownknees
March 19, 2009, 18:16
$200~250 depending on condition.
Check if the "tabs" are intact on the dustcover, you'll need them on an inch build.

sfbadger
March 19, 2009, 18:30
Thanks, brownknees, that's what I needed to know.

Are you talking about the tabs in the rear of the cover? Are they necessary for the scope? I've never understood what those tabs were for.

brownknees
March 19, 2009, 18:44
Yes the little folded-over sheet metal ones at the rear, bottom.
They're not needed for the scope, but they do fit into matching cuts in inch recievers. They are to stop the cover from "walking" under recoil.

Check the rivets & spot welds on the mount/dustcover as well, they are frequently the weak point.
What, if anything, is in the illumination socket, original plugs can be reanimated, or there is a (pretty poor) LED illuminator. Thes may effect pricing.

sfbadger
March 19, 2009, 19:14
Well, the problem is that I found this set up online so I can't hold it in my hands to inspect them. I asked for more photo's, if possible, and I did ask about the spot welds for the scope mount. I've never seen this equipment close up and personal so I really don't even know how the scope functions. The Gunplumber's Home Guide pays little more than lip service on the subject so all I know about the scope is that it takes a small amount of oil and has a Red LED on it somewhere, which would obviously need a battery? I've only become interested in this system since I bought Blake Stevens book on the FAL last week. Any suggestions on where I can get a quick education on the function of the Trilux scope? I have no idea what the illumination socket is supposed to look like?

Thanks

brownknees
March 19, 2009, 21:47
Go to the stickies in the optics forum, the manual is there to read & print!

The socket is where the LED unit goes BTW. so you have the LED, not the original, which is prety much normal for the SUIT.
Don't sweat the rivets too much, but get the rail tack welded to the sheet metal ASAP, before it falls off or shoots loose.

I am curious about "Takes a small amount of oil", the suit does not need any oil at all, anywhere. Can you get a bit more info on this odd statment?

Falfegnügen
March 19, 2009, 22:07
In my experience you don't have to have the tabs at the back for it to work. Probably is better if they are there, but they will work just fine without them. They are only essential if you have an original Canadian style stripper-clip topcover.

By the way, this is a really cool scope with some innovative concepts incorperated into it, like the inverted tritium illuminated pointer, an offset prism design which makes it perform like a longer scope while also getting the objective out of the way of the barrel's heat mirage zone. And the quick detach return-to-zero mount with bullet-drop compensation is interesting...

However, as cool and innovative as it is, do not expect it to perform like a modern quality scope. Although the optical and mechanical quality is excellent, it does suffer from short eye relief which many find uncomfortable, and most of the mounts shoot loose and are rather loosy-goosy to begin with, with the exception of the very earliest mounts which are much stronger, but also much harder to find.

To clarify the LED insert, the SUIT originally was made with a Tritium illumination insert that could be rotated to adjust the intensity. On most SUIT scopes that were imported, these were removed either because of the potential hazard due to the Tritium, or becuase they were just too old to still glow. The LED is just a replacement for the tritium insert, and although I find it works quite well, it is just not very robust, being made of plastic with a flimsy on/off switch sticking off the top, where it's easy to be broken. The LED version can be changed in intensity though, just like the original tritium, by rotating the whole assembly. Many owners don't realize this and think the LED just doesn't work well.

sfbadger
March 19, 2009, 22:49
Originally posted by brownknees
Go to the stickies in the optics forum, the manual is there to read & print!
I am curious about "Takes a small amount of oil", the suit does not need any oil at all, anywhere. Can you get a bit more info on this odd statment?

Thanks for all the info and tips. What I meant when I made the "oil" comment is that I could have sworn I had read it somewhere a long time ago about this Trilux scope. Then seeing photo's of the scope disassembled with a gasket nearby seemed to confirm it in my mind that it held a small amount of oil. Of course it seems ridiculous now. What can I say? :rolleyes:

Time for me to do some reading and get enlightened. Thanks again, guys! :)

sfbadger
March 20, 2009, 00:28
Thanks for directing me to that sticky in the Optics section. That was exactly what I was looking for and now the photo's I've seen of the Trilux disassembled all make sense.

First thing I'll do when I hopefully buy the SUIT system is to locate a spot welder and reinforce the welds holding the sight base to the top cover. I'm not expecting too much from this scope but the more I keep reading Blake Stevens book and after building my first Enfield Para L1A1 last week, the more fond I'm becoming of these Commonwealth FAL's. I always thought I was going to be a Metric's for life kind of guy but not anymore! :bow: :fal:

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/sfbadger/InchPara8.jpg

brownknees
March 20, 2009, 10:06
OK I got you on the oil thing now.
The gasket is at the rear of the prizm housing, its real use is to seal in the nitrogen that the scope was purged with at manufacture.
I think you may be thinking of the red "plug" on the bottom of the same housing? If so that's where the dry nitrogen was injected.

I did find that a little grease on the pivots for the range cam were a big help though.

sfbadger
March 20, 2009, 10:28
Originally posted by brownknees
I did find that a little grease on the pivots for the range cam were a big help though.

Good to know! Hopefully I'll find out today if I have a deal for this SUIT system for $200? I'm waiting for a final description on the optics and top cover and then I'll buy it.

brownknees
March 20, 2009, 10:59
Not that it's really vital, but is it a Brit, or Izzy one?

sfbadger
March 20, 2009, 12:25
British, which is what I'm looking for. Why, is one better than the other?

brownknees
March 20, 2009, 13:38
No, not really.
The Izzies were British originally, but had some mods done by the Izzies.
A lot of the stickers on these are repros BTW, just because there's a "pseudo-brit" sticker doesn't make it Brit.

The main differences are in the clamping springs.
The Brit, brit ones had a multiple zig-zag spring, the Izzies changed this to a figure "8" spring, & added a coil spring underneath. I have no idea why! They also added a small screw to the top pf the QD lever to disable the QD feature.
The zero is MARKED diffferently as well, the izzies were set up for use with the .223 round on am M-16 so they changed the zeroing marks to better work with the .223/M-16 combination. The actual cam is the same as a 7.62 cam, only the zeroing distance information was changed.