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brownknees
December 16, 2008, 16:20
How critical is the center bedding on an enfield?

The reciever is bedded beautifully.
The first part of the barrel is as well.
There is good contact at the muzzle end as well & there is slight upward pressure at the muzzle.

BUT.

There are 2 bedding points in the barrel channel & on my rifle the first one is
just touching, but no pressure, while the second is just touching, but off center by about 1/2 the width of the cutouts in the stock.
I'm wondering if this is worth fixing while I have the whole thing stripped down for refurbrishing. I do not know how accurate it is currently, as I haven't fired it yet. But the front sight is well off to the opposite side to the bedding mis-allignment. I'm wondering if I have found the cause.

My thinking here is to very carefully remove just enough material fo rthe bedding to be centered at all the contact points & then shim slightly to bring more contact pressure at these points.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

owlcreekok
December 16, 2008, 16:26
BK,

I am not real versed on all the model designations. I have futzed around with No 4 and No 3 Enfields a good bit in days gone by. I read some time ago that certain contact points along the barrel's length with these was the ticket for best accuracy. Seems the Brits would inlay little pillars all along to effect this.

I once had one of my No 4's out shoot a glassed Remy 700 off the bench with milsurp .303. Hacked the johnny deer hunter off so bad he stormed off the range in a tizzy. My No 4 wasn't bedded and still isn't. Fine shooting rifles they are, box stock.

brownknees
December 16, 2008, 16:43
Yep Owl, that's what I'm remembering.
Heres a quick pic of the "pillars", the front one is offset to the left as shown by the lighter coloration where light contact stopped cosmo from penetrating the wood. The contact is so light there is cosmo on the underside of the barrel at these 2 points, but not at those where there is solid contact.

This rifle is new, and I think it'll be a tack driver if I can figure out the little details.

I'm thinking light sanding on the high side to re-center & then thin shims to improve contact. We're talking veneer thickness shims here as I have a few pieces left over from another project. The thought is to install temporarily & if the accuracy improves, make the fix permanent.
Or, of course I'll just bugger up a good rifle:uhoh:

brownknees
December 16, 2008, 16:46
Oops!

bykerhd
December 16, 2008, 16:57
bk ?
I'm just curious, but....
Was this Enfield you're working on formerly an "in the wrap" Mk II you may have acquired recently ?:eek: :biggrin:

brownknees
December 16, 2008, 17:01
Yessir, an a right beaut she be.:whiskey:

owlcreekok
December 16, 2008, 17:31
Just to be an arse and portend that a few my bud and I back East did are any indication, think about doing this. Clean it up but don't make any chips or dust. Put it together and see how it shoots.

It might freak you out.

Slik and I bought several from Roses back in the day for $39.95 apiece the No 3 and $69.95 apiece the No 4. We'd take em home, strip them down, boil the wood in an old GI can, scrub all the metal, slap it together and light cordite with em. Most would hold under 3 MOA off yer elbows on a bench all day long. As you know, these things have a rear aperture you can poke a tootsie roll through.

Give it a go. I dare ya.

:wink:

brownknees
December 16, 2008, 23:09
That was the other thought.:bow:
I've been staring at the inside of the barrel channel trying to get inside the head of the guy who finished this one up.
I'm beginning to wonder if the marks are wood being removed to make it shoot better.
It would make sense as there isn't supposed to be contact at the rear "pillar", & if it shot left he may have relieved wood there. Looking down the channel from both ends I'm beginning to think this is what was done.

For now I'll just finish the cleanup & wood refinishing & try her out.
I can always tear the front end down again later if I need to.

Thanks for the "air check" guys.

mitchellh
December 24, 2008, 11:02
BK,

This thread over at Gunboards might help regarding bedding of an Enfield Stock.

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?t=66605

Edward Horton over there has a wealth of information.

brownknees
December 24, 2008, 12:10
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Funnily enough the same person came up in a totally different discussion elsewhere.

TerryN
December 26, 2008, 19:05
If you seriously want to understand bedding a Lee Enfield, and I do mean seriously, ask Edward Horton on the Gunboards Lee Enfield forum. He has made a study of them, and will expound on the subject at great length when given the slightest provocation!

Don't misunderstand me, I truly appreciate the information he provides and I have learned a great deal about Lee Enfields from him, but he can get a bit long winded, as it were. :beer:

brownknees
December 26, 2008, 22:06
Right now I haven't made any changes. Just re-fitted correctly after the clean up.
Tomorrow is range test day & I'll see how well it groups. If it needs work then I'll start tinkering, but if it ain't broke then I ain't going to try to fix it.

I'm also heading over to look at the links, thanks for the lead.

DYNOMIKE
December 27, 2008, 08:52
I would have done the very same thing in cleaning it up and shooting as is first.. One may be surprised by the way the rifle shoots out of the box so to speak..

Awaiting range report... :beer:

I also wonder how much the Action Screw tension affects accuracy in these and other Milsurp Bolt guns as well and will be experimenting with that....

TerryN
December 28, 2008, 06:50
The king screw (front TG screw) on a Lee Enfield MUST be T-I-G-H-T! That much I do know. Be certain that your rifle has the king screw bushing before you gorilla-wrench the king screw, though. Otherwise you can split the wood.

brownknees
December 28, 2008, 07:07
Be certain that your rifle has the king screw bushing before you gorilla-wrench the king screw, though. Otherwise you can split the wood.
Not only yes, but "HELL, YES!":bow:

I darn near forgot this time round. Here I am trying to insert the bushing thrugh the trigger guard plate?????????????:rofl:

I got it to the range yesterday & shot a couple of 100yd groups with RG '50 & some of my handloads. I wanted to check if the loads I built for the other rifle were good in this one. (They were, YAY!)

The RG '50 made good, round 3 1/2" groups & the handloaded 150 grainers went a bit tighter at 3". I guess I don't have any bedding problems to worry about! :shades:

POI was a bit low, as I had to set the rearsight at 220 yds to get a group to hit the bull. The front sight is a .06, so now I've got to go do the math to see what front sight I need.

I still haven't had time to host 'n post the pics yet, maybe to-morrow after I get everything cleaned up from the trip. I cleaned the Enfield last night as the RG is cordite/corrosive, but today it's finishing up the FAL as it got a bit of range time in as well. Luckily that wasn't shooting corrosive, so I just did a quick clean up & let Hoppes work it's magic overnight.

brownknees
December 28, 2008, 11:18
Here's the pics of the finished rifle & the target.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h29/moosp/finished.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h29/moosp/DSCF6179.jpg

The two off low & left are probably me not being used to the trigger. I'm hoping a bit more familiarity will shrink that group size by quite a bit.

I've been reading (a lot) from Mr. Horton.
He is every bit as much an expert as you all promised, thanks again.:beer:

Hollis Wood
December 28, 2008, 14:44
I recently re-stocked one of mine back to normal that had been a sporter.

I wished I read some of that stuff beforehand, as now I have to go back and rework at least one of the "draws".

I wound up reading on it at Milsurp.com under the '91 version No.4 manual.
Good recommended reading for Enfields.

rigormootis
January 08, 2009, 11:01
This is an outstanding thread. I vote is be a sticky.