View Full Version : Enfield in 45 ACP

December 08, 2008, 23:59
Went to the SAR show this last weekend and purchased a
Enfield conversion to change it over to 45ACP.
Middle one is SBR with 12 inch barrel
I got the 18 inch to start with an will have it chopped back later.
Eventually I'll have it suppressed sort of like the top one.

He also does 7.62x39 conversion's on them.

So any advice about getting a 50+ year old barrel off the Enfield? ;)

December 09, 2008, 11:52
Who's the builder? Thanks.

December 09, 2008, 12:44
Originally posted by 0007
Who's the builder? Thanks.

--------> http://www.specialinterestarms.com/index.php <--------------

Robert :)

December 09, 2008, 22:40
Yep SIA makes the kits and the rifles pictured...
so far I have been advised soak in KROIL and when I go
to take it off heat the receiver and cool the barrel and use one
good sharp hard impact to break it free - have a very Sturdy
Vise on a very strong mount .... any other suggestions?

Blue Monster
December 10, 2008, 08:38
A modern redux of the De Lisle carbine?

December 11, 2008, 09:47
Originally posted by Blue Monster
A modern redux of the De Lisle carbine?

That's the idea - Rhineland was doing them for a while but their's had problems with Ejection of empties - this an improvement - Richard also does conversions to 7.62x39 when Rhineland quit the demand was still there so he picked up the mantel - he does make one with built in suppressor. He said with the one he built for himself (the 12" barreled with muzzle can that he put together) he can hit man size metal at 300 yards from a rest.

De Lisle in action

There's links to several more in youtube :wink:

December 11, 2008, 19:18
I have built 3 coversions and I had to destroy the barrels to get them off as a 6 foot cheater and a 190 pound man hanging off it would not budge any of the barrels even after soaking them in Kroil for a week. I have been told that it is not uncommon to crack an Enfield receiver when attempting to remove barrels without destoying them. All the donor guns that I converted had already been cut down during sporterizing or failed headspace with the highest numbered bolthead installed.

Here is what I did the first time and then what I did once I got a lathe.

Dremel method.

1) Soak barrel receiver in penetrating oil.

2) Unsuccessfully attempt to remove barrel intact.

3) Take cut off wheels and cut a channel all the way around the barrel until you equal the depth of the barrel shoulder. Get this channel as close to the receiver shoulder as you can without touching the receiver. It has to be close to relieve the pressure that the barrel shoulder exerts on the front of the receiver.

3) If you removed enough metal on the barrel, it should easily come off now.

Lathe method.

1) Soak barrel and receiver in penetrating oil.

2) Unsuccessfully attempt to remove barrel intact.

3) Remove firing pin/striker assembly from the bolt then reinstall bolt.

4) Place the barrel in the chuck of you lathe and a live center in the rear of the bolt body.

5) Cut a relief in front of the receiver face as close to the receiver face as possible to the depth of the barrel shoulder.

6) Barrel should now turn off easily. 1 of 2 came off by hand after doing this with a paper thin bit of metal pushing on the reciever face. The other came off with a wrench using light pressure.


December 12, 2008, 13:04
Thanks - I'll remember that if mine is stubborn - Have dremel will WECSOG

December 12, 2008, 17:12
I had two No4 Mk1s re-barreled this summer. Both had to have the relief cuts done to keep from damaging the receiver.

Good Luck.

December 13, 2008, 04:05
Mitchellh, if I may ask, where did U find replacement barrel? Also, who did work for U? Thanks.

December 13, 2008, 07:24
Originally posted by Mebsuta
Mitchellh, if I may ask, where did U find replacement barrel? Also, who did work for U? Thanks.


AB Dow, did the two re-barrel jobs for me in July. Turn around time was 2 weeks. Total ranged around 100.00+ labor for each rebarrel, changed bolt heads if was out of Spec, and test fire. He came recommended from Brian Dick, of http://www.bdlltd.com/. Unfortunately, Brian had a conflict and couldn't do the job.


The barrels came from Northridge Int; The part is still listed eventhough when I received my two, the invoice was marked "Last Ones", I suggest you give them a call.


Go down to gunparts. 303 Enfield No 4 Barrel-Good $50.00

The two I received had almost new bores. I have only shot one of them since the re-barrel and I'm very happy with the results.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1911/l1030552edited1df6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1557/l1030553edited1qd5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

December 13, 2008, 10:49
Thank you. I appreciate it.

Lovely rifels you have there. :)

January 02, 2009, 22:55
The old 303 barrel is off and the new 45 barrel is on - ejector installed - test fired with rear stock only has have to fit the wood to the barrel - fed all 230 RN loads well as long as bolt was operated briskly - ejection good as well.

Should have some pictures of finished conversion next week. At least Stage one as an ordinary 18" rifle.

January 08, 2009, 21:41
Some of us have pecular tastes, I am currently interested in quiet weapons - I have forsaken the boomenearsplittenmaxi magnums of my youth and look for entertainment with a pop or shush.

The latest project, is a conversion on a SMLE Mark4 Enfield to use 45 ACP with unmodified 1911 magazine's - the outfit that makes them is Special Interest Arms out of Nevada http://www.specialinterestarms.com

- Richard was at the SAR gunshow showing off his handiwork - it's an improvement of the Rhineland conversion that he had purchased but had ejection problems with so he came up with a better idea and built it for others after rhineland quit. For $300 I got an 18 inch bull barrel, a magazine adaptor block of anodized aluminum, and ejector and an eight shot 1911 mag.

With the help of F4D aka Jerry, I got the barrel off and swapped in the kit - the magazine adaptor was tight but worked well - the barrel has a nut like a savage so you screw in with a dummy cartridge and jam nut it to stay - little blue locktite when your sure. You have to drill and tap a hole in the receiver for the ejector. You also have to WECSOG the extractor and bolthead bevel. It's less than a weekend's project after you get the original 303 barrel off - which is a project in itself - I had to cut around the barrel next to the receiver to get the pressure off as it just didn't want to come off - Brits must use way more muscle to put their barrels on than the Germans or Americans - almost a cold weld :? .

So today we tripped out for first firing and to try and see how high the front site would have to be. Here's a pic.

http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/9159/conversioninfieldsiteinwn2.th.jpg (http://img361.imageshack.us/my.php?image=conversioninfieldsiteinwn2.jpg)

Long way to go - and yes the front site looks a little funny - it's masking tape.
http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/4293/howtomakeafrontsitefromuw2.th.jpg (http://img361.imageshack.us/my.php?image=howtomakeafrontsitefromuw2.jpg)

here's a target
http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/9309/45acpsmlesightintargetwun5.th.jpg (http://img361.imageshack.us/my.php?image=45acpsmlesightintargetwun5.jpg)

After a little more practice I was able to hit things like pop cans out to 100 yards, and of course dirt and rocks.

I'm hoping for a few more modifications but as it is I like it.