Who makes the best AK fire control parts?

[DK]

I need a set of US made fire control parts for a milled receiver Bulgarian SLR-100. Who makes the best and where can I find 'em?

:beer:

DK

[gunplumber]

I like the arsenal a little a better than the Tapco G2, but they cost 30% more. Either one will probably have to be adjusted - they ARE NOT drop-in parts.

[Ron Walker]

" they ARE NOT drop-in parts."

Amen to that!! Ron

[DK]

What type of adjustment or fitting might be required? I've never fooled with AK's much... AR's or FAL's I'm good to go.

DK

[GOZUKI]

What about red star?

[RottenII]

Originally posted by GOZUKI
What about red star?
I like the Redstar but double the $$.

[gunplumber]

I don't care for the red star at all -

ALL AK FCGs MUST BE FITTED TO THE GUN!

Thats it folks, some may not like to hear it but its true. They simply are not drop in parts - maybe thats why they are often numbered to the gun.

Now they often will interchange, but often isn't always and an ill-fitting FCG will result in a crappy trigger, a disconnector failing to catch (doubling) or a disconnector failing to release. On full auts we have safety sear engagement and release (timing) as a variable as well.

Add that there are differences in receiver dimensions and different FCG styles and dimensions and it is simply irresponsible to "assume" that any particular group is going to work.

Fortunately, its not that difficult to adjust. I have a full tutorial on my website under "notes" but the gist of it is, the hammer notch must be low enough in the retracted position for the disonnector to catch. The disconnector must almost touch or touch the hamer in the trigtger at rest position. And the selector must engage the trigger in the safe position.

Then for smoothness, the relationship between the trigger arms/claws and the hammer is such that the hammer is not pushed backwards before releasing.

[DK]

Hmmm..... I have an AK that has a nice trigger feel when the gun is empty; merely cycling the action and dry firing (even repeatedly) yields a consistent, reasonably smooth trigger pull. When I took it to the range today (first trip) it operated well for about 40 rounds- just as it did manually dry firing the gun. After the first 40 rounds the trigger pull would intermittently become very heavy and then lighten up only to become very heavy again for the next 30 rounds or so. After that I packed up.

I figured I'd swap out the parts for a quick fix; maybe that's not what I need to do? Any thoughts on diagnosis of my problem here?

DK

[gunplumber]

thats an odd set of symptoms. It sounded initially like the hammer pin had jumped the shepherds hook, which will cant the hammer and make a heavier pull - but it should get worse until it fails completely - not get better.

Another common issue is a misshapen hammer spring tail binding on the disconnector which could create some drag on pull and release.

Pull the trigger with the topcover off and watch the hammer - it should just go forward - if it goes back slightly before coming forward the angles are positive rake - you want neutral.