M1 Bolt Q

[StoneyCreekMrMauser]

Just bought a spare bolt for my M1 and it will not accept a NOGO HSG. It seems to chamber all my ammo types but it is a stone bitch to get that bolt open after it closes. Is this a cause for concern before firing with it or does the bolt just need to be broke in? I'd like to keep from damaging this one, I like it!

[IanMor]

It's not supposed to accept a nogo gauge. Whats it do on the go & field gauge?

If it is tight with your other loads, my guess is it is now a tighter headspace. How does it chamber with a factory new cartridge? (non reloaded, or maybe even a Milspec M2 round)

P.S. I would not reccomend using a live round for the function test. BAD things can happen. If you MUST, please be very careful, and mind your muzzel please

[TerryN]

It's not uncommon for M1s to close on a No-Go gage; it's desirable that they don't, but not necessarily a show stopper - as long as it won't close on a 'Field' gage (without the op rod or spring installed).

Are you saying that its difficult to open the bolt on an empty chamber, or on an unfired cartridge? Assuming that it's properly lubed (with grease), it shouldn't be difficult in either instance.

If its difficult to open on a fired case, then take a close look at your chamber. It needs to be CLEAN and dry. If you don't already have one, buy the ratcheting chamber brush and use it. Be advised that there are two sizes, one for .30-06 and one for 7.62. The .30-06 brush is longer, and it needs to be. Many, many places sell the 7.62-length brush interchangeably for either cartridge. Check the chamber for rust pits - that can certainly cause what you're describing.

If your chamber is in good shape and the bolt is new (even new to your rifle), I would suggest cycling it by hand a couple of hundred times. I don't recommend 'speeding the process' by application of any abrasives.

HTH.

[SmokeEater2]

OK,Can someone school me on this? I thought M1A bolts required fitting. :?


yes,yes,I knowI'm a total dumbass on the M1A :sad:

[GIshooter]

Nope, an in-spec receiver does not need a GI bolt to be lapped to fit with a GI chrome barrel. Three LRBs built and all headspace/funtion perfectly. Lapping a bolt in as some "hungry gunsmiths" advocate is not necessary. Lapping the lugs on a in- spec bolt also has nothing to do with headspace.

[StoneyCreekMrMauser]

The bolt seems to get hard to pull back when an dummy round is in the chamber, a loaded clip is in, and the hammer down on the snap-cap. If it's just the snap-cap without clip, it's still tight but not bad. My clip latch spring probably needs replacing since it does occasionally let a clip go during firing so that may be part of it.

I realize a NOGO gauge isn't supposed to be accepted (have to use it as a helper since I don't have a GO yet) and the rifle will take a live M2 ball round without hanging up. The bolt that came with it works just fine, just a little pitting on it (matches the rifle!). As far as lube goes I haven't checked it with Tetra on the lugs yet but I will do that as soon as I can tear the rifle down all the way and get her degreased.

The rifle has no functional problems with the other bolt whatsoever ('cept the clip popping) and chucks the shells in a nice little pile.

I'll update in a little while with info on the empty chamber and grease.

[WCG]

I believe the original thread is about M1 (Garand) bolts.
On this note, I'll say that not all bolts will headspace the same due to differences in bolts and in chamber depth on barrels.
Post war rifles may need a little lapping to mate the receiver & bolt which will also increase the accuracy.
Post war rifles have less wear on the receiver lugs and lapping helps smooth the lugs.






Originally posted by GIshooter
Nope, an in-spec receiver does not need a GI bolt to be lapped to fit with a GI chrome barrel. Three LRBs built and all headspace/funtion perfectly. Lapping a bolt in as some "hungry gunsmiths" advocate is not necessary. Lapping the lugs on a in- spec bolt also has nothing to do with headspace.

I'm glad you're not my armorer/gunsmith.
Commercial receivers will never be in spec.
LRB's are good but, not perfect.
In fact, 4 days ago I checked a new SAK chromed barrel on a LRB receiver with a new TRW bolt & headspace was 1.622
Far short of 1.632 needed to headspace correctly.
That's far from being in spec.

As far as Lapping the lugs on a in-spec bolt having nothing to do with headspace ????
You're totally misinformed or uneducated.
Lapping a bolt removes metal from the bolt lugs when lapped.
Although a minor amount but, it does affect headspace.
Lapping a bolt to a receiver, mates them together and increases the surface contact area.
I prefer about 95% minimum.
This also increases accuracy as with the M1 rifle.

I've learned from LOU at LRB that his receivers are currently made to utilize Criterion chromed barrels & used or worn USGI bolts.
I hope that clears the air a bit.

[GIshooter]

Hi warbird,
Indeed the post was about the M-1 Garand. I only added a response to the ? about M-1A bolts.
I am only commenting on the M-14 clones not Garands, bolt guns or any other weapons. I tried to make my post as simple as possible without confusing the poor guy with a bunch of technical stuff. Yes if you lapped(removed metal from the lugs) enough it will change the headspace. But again you should not have to. I've seen Chinese bolts that had lugs that bad. If a GI bolt and GI chrome-lined M-14 barrel combo does not headspace properly find one that does.
A properly headspaced M-14 bolt with a GI chrome barrel should already have plenty of contact area. Any lapping is not necessary. Each time the rifle is fired it is in effect "lapped" is it not?
As far as accuracy is concerned show me the accuracy difference between a properly headspaced USGI M-14 bolt to a USGI chrome barrel before and after lapping. I've never seen/heard of a real scientific test to prove this and would like to see it. Otherwise I stand by what I said.
Lou has indeed put out a good receiver. But as you pointed out he has changed the dimensions to compensate for the lack of new condition parts. I've talked to Lou many times. I purchased some of his very first receivers after the MKS debacle. I've given him technical advice that he has used. I've been invited to man his display at SHOT for several years but unable to because of my work schedule (Uncle Sam keeps me busy.)

[Sgt_Gold]

There is a great deal of misunderstanding on the use of the NO-GO gauge. The NO-GO is used for the assembly of new components only. Once a rifle enters service, a GO and a FIELD gauge are used for maintenance. Many builders like to use the NO-GO gauge because if your rifle closes on the GO gauge, you have no way of knowing how long your headspace is until it reaches the FIELD state.

[Swampy]

Stoney Creek,

I'm sorry if I missed it in earlier posts but I have to ask....

You ARE using the gauge with a stripped bolt and the op-rod removed from the rifle aren't you???

Best,
Swampy

Garands forever

[StoneyCreekMrMauser]

Yep.

[StoneyCreekMrMauser]

Okay, put some Tetra gun grease on the bolt raceways and lugs, tried it again and the damn thing is still really stiff. It seems to be worse when the hammer's down but not by much. Original bolt works just fine. Any ideas?