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View Full Version : Technical: fix for fail-to-feed when bolt release dropped


Scott S
February 22, 2001, 10:15
A week or so ago I posted a message regarding a recent range trip where I experienced several failures to feed Hirtenberger with my DSA standard length. Extraction and ejection worked, but the bolt would stop after stripping a cartridge about halfway out of the mag. This failure to feed occurred after firing shots and after dropping the bolt using the release. Called DSA and spoke to their 'smith. Said that I should adjust my gas setting, and that a slightly more vigorous cycle might be all that was needed (same comment I got from Gary J.). Haven't been to the range to test the gas adjustment fix.

However, that fix doesn't address the feed problem when dropping the bolt using the bolt release tab/button (Norman74 and Mt Guerrilla also reported this problem). Looked at this problem last night. Every time I inserted a full mag and hit the bolt release, the bolt would fail to completely strip the round from the mag. Tip of cartridge would go into the chamber a quarter to half inch, but the rim/head would still be in the mag. With a mag of less than 10 rounds, dropping the bolt chambered the round every time. So, it seemed that full mag tension against something caused enough friction to prevent complete feeding. Looking closely at the action as I cycled it slowly with my hand on the charging handle, I could see that the shoulder of each cartridge was scraping on the edge of the receiver feed rails. This scraping left a mark that looked like the cartridge had been rubbed with the edge of a piece of 120 grit sandpaper. Just one small spot on the feed rails caused this scraping. Look from underneath the rifle through the mag well into the action. At the back of the mag well the receiver feed rails are parallel to each other. Going forward, they diverge. They then converge and finally become parallel again. The *very* shallow angle where the convergence ends and the front parallel part begins is where the rounds were hanging. When you insert a mag with rounds in it, the body of the cartridge just behind the shoulder touches this point on the receiver. Shining a flashlight into the mag well I could see a thin layer of brass on the rails at this point. This edge was sharp enough to dig into the case shoulder, slowing the bolt just enough to stop it on full to nearly full mags.

In lieu of running several hundred rounds through the gun to help polish this sharp edge, I opted to go the Dremel route. Used a little, hard rubber-tipped bit impregnated with a fine abrasive to ever-so-slightly break the bottom edge of the rails at this point. I also polished the inner rail surfaces and lower rail surfaces for a quarter inch in each direction--just enough to remove the parkerizing. I went very slowly, checking my progress very often. Screw this up and you're hosed.

Now, when I insert a full mag and drop the bolt using the release, the cartridge slides home without a hitch. And the cartridge doesn't have the small scrap on the shoulder--just a tiny polished-looking mark in the same location.

FWIW,
Scott

[ September 10, 2001: Message edited by: gary.jeter ]

ByronF
February 22, 2001, 10:25
Good report, Scott. I have the same problem with my rifle. I thought I'd just have to rack the charging handle every time, but I'll take a look at my rifle tonight. Mine puts a substantial gouge in the cases, about 1" long starting at the edge of the shoulder. I always thought it was a mag issue, but you've got me thinking.

Thanks,
Byron

Scott S
February 22, 2001, 12:13
Byron, the mag was the first thing I looked at, working by the rule that one modifies the least expensive part. However, I looked *very* closely at the mag feed lips and receiver feed rails and found a relatively large amount of brass build up on the receiver rails and almost none on the mag lips. Also, as I watched the cartridge during slow, manual cycling, I could see that the mag lips didn't interfere with the cartridge travel, nor did they leave the gouge that the receiver rails did. I would have preferred to work on the edges of $5-9 mags instead of a several hundred dollar receiver, but the mags lips weren't the problem in *my case*. I'd make darn sure to rule out the mags as culprit before hacking on your receiver.

I pondered whether polishing these rails at the factory before shipping the rifle should be part of the production process. Decided it shouldn't. First, I think the problem varies with the relative softness of the brass. I had this problem only with one battle pack of Hirtenberger. The commercial Remington I've used fed fine. Second, I think after just allowing the gun a long break-in period will eventually cure the problem without intervention. For those with the patience, time, and ammo supply, I'd say this is really a better route than grinding away on a receiver, no matter how delicately.

I'd be interested to know if the receiver feed rails are polished on receivers with 500 or so rounds through them. If not, then perhaps my procedure is worthwhile in some cases.

Ted III
February 23, 2001, 17:31
Just another note on failure to feed problems.

I had this same type of problem, stripping a cartridge about halfway out of the mag, with my STG.

My problem occured in very cold weather, below 30 degrees F, at the range I go to here in Michigan. The bolt wouldn't even strip a round while being fired and I was getting frustrated. I torn the whole thing down right there at the table and found some of the grease I used to protect the parts during storage. This is the grease I get at the Gun shows that comes in the tiny plactic pot with the yellow screw on lid. In my haste to get to the range I forgot to clean this grease out, go figure. The cold tempurature was turning this grease into a very thick paste that wouldn't let action cycle at all. After a good wipe down and a light cote of the proper lube, everything was back to normal and the action cycled just fine.

I did notice that the tips of the cartidges were getting hung up on the feed ramps, but this friction combined with the thickening grease was just too much for the cycle to handle. It was kind of interesting to see such a little thing stop a weapon cold (pun intended).

Note to self:
1. Polish the feed ramps
2. Grease is for cooking


Ted III

gunnut1
February 23, 2001, 17:52
Ido beleive the grease you refer to is for M14s and Garands. And I do think it is Lubriplate. Is it white? I have read in M16 manuals that weapons used in the artic are to be lubes with a special type of oil or grease that will not do what you are refering to. They do not tell you what type of grease or oil though. I would think that shooting a gun dry would be better than having it stop shooting in a life and death situation.

Aifwikir
February 23, 2001, 19:52
Scott
I too was having this problem, but lacking a dremel (I really need to get one of them) I used the emory Cloth under the finger technique. Thanks for the tip. This area of my brand new receiver was sharp enough to cut my finger. Not any more though,, feeds from bolt hold open release EVERY time. Thanks!
Aif

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I don't SUFFER from insanity,,,,
I ENJOY IT!!

Ted III
February 24, 2001, 01:43
gunnut1

Nope, this grease is a deep rust color and works very well. Just not in below freezing temps http://www.fnfal.com/forums/wink.gif

I use this for most of the things I store that might rust like knives, swords , guns etc. I was just suprised to see a round like the 7.62 not having enough power to compensate for the thickend grease. However, the tolerences in the FAL design might be tighter than I gave credit to. I mean this stuff wouldn't even let the action cycle manually as the bolt just couldn't get past the half way point of stripping a round.

I've learned my lesson and will stick to better lubes for weapons I use frequently, but will still use this rust color stuff for storage items.


Ted III

W.E.G.
September 10, 2001, 20:05
moved to FAQ