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LooseCannon
September 22, 2000, 16:24
While waiting for my new locking shoulder to arrive.
I decided to take my recoil spring wrench for a spin. STG58

Well the spring tube came off the trigger housing, ugh.
So how do I get the nut of the tube?
I tried the padded vise and padded channel locks but
I don’t want to smash the tube.
No luck getting it off.

Should I:

a - Apply heat to the tube.
b - Use red loc-tite on the tube and hope it holds.
c - Grab the #$%@ tube with vise grips.
d - Try and put it back together as is (I did try this, but can’t recommend it)
e - Scrap this damn project, get a 2nd mortgage and buy a 50.63

Thanks

Dave

BTW - Should there be two recoil spring in there?

One more observation, what the hell did they use for grease back then?
Some combo of whale fat and goat sh*t?
STG 58 dated 61.
While cleaning the parts kit up the first time I managed to get the stuff
all over a new white T-shirt. No big deal, I hid it in the laundry basket.
Well, the stuff didn’t wash out, and the wife was unhappy.
The wife died the shirt some brown color.
Oh well, now I have a nice grease brown STG shirt.

[This message has been edited by LooseCannon (edited September 22, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by LooseCannon (edited September 22, 2000).]

[ July 31, 2001: Message edited by: gary.jeter ]

[ August 07, 2001: Message edited by: EMDII ]

Rats
September 22, 2000, 17:43
Just an observation looseC, but if you didnt have bad luck you wouldnt have any luck at all. Leave the nut on, clean the living hell out of the tube. Dry the tube out and litely put some teflon oil in. Clean the springs, and yes there are 2. Leave the springs on the recoil lug and screw the tube back in. AND THEN LEAVE IT ALONE. LOL. PAT

LooseCannon
September 22, 2000, 19:31
You're right about my luck.
The first AR15 I built was also jinxed.
But that's another story.

I did clean the mystery goo off the tube and recoil spring.

What really pisses me off, I bought that fancy
butstock tool, and it doesn't help any in this situation.

Sgt Rock
September 22, 2000, 19:50
You do have another option. If you are fortunate enough to have access to a lathe you can either chuck it in a 3 jaw chuck, put the lathe in the lowest back gear which should keep the tube immovable and then unscrew the stock screw. When you reassemble the lower don't crank on the stock screw as it won't unscrew with the buttpad attached an this will allow simple dissasembly in the future. Most gunsmiths have engine lathes and this would only take a minute of their time. The other option is a strap wrench. I have used both when faced with this same problem. Trying to jam those springs together backwards doesn't do them any good. All that kinking and stuff. Hope this helps.

LooseCannon
September 22, 2000, 22:24
I can get to a lathe, that is a really
good idea, I'll give it a try.

Thanks SGT

derek huffman, azexarms
September 22, 2000, 22:41
sigh...put the tube in an aluminum-jawed vice. Tighten it to the point where it will not turn when you turn the nut with the wrench. Apply heat via mapp or propane torch, just until the grease starts to bubble up.

Keep trying to turn it by hand, it will probably give up, dont tighten the vice any further, if all else fails tap the one "arm" of the buttstock wrench with a plastic faced hammer. D.

LooseCannon
September 23, 2000, 12:09
Derek,

Yeah, us newbies can be tiresome bunch at times. http://www.fnfal.com/forums/smile.gif
I will try and earn my keep buy helping other newbs
out when I can.

I used the lathe three jaw chuck method, no power,
just used the chuck key for leverage and the butsock tool
for the nut. Worked great, nut is off and the recoil
spring and butstock are back on.

Now if my locking shoulder would just show up.

Tell next time . . . .

Dave

W.E.G.
October 14, 2000, 21:52
I experienced this same problem.

I overcame it by wrapping a couple turns of old innner-tube (for padding) around the inch or so adjacent to the tube nut. Then I inserted the tube nut wrench while twisting the tube with a cam-lock wrench. This wrench is functionally much like a pipe wrench in the sense that it holds ever tighter the more force you apply on the handle. However, the jaws are curved (to better grasp a tube or shaft) instead of flat like a pipe wrench. If you use this sort of tool on the recoil spring tube, you should only allow it to contact the tube where the shaft of the tube nut supports the tube. Otherwise it will easily crush the tube.

W.E.G.
July 31, 2001, 20:38
moved to FAQ