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JAVIER
July 27, 2007, 01:20
hello: I'm pretty sure all of you have used one time or another, the cold blue solution to fix a little scratch or a booobo on your toys.....any way..the last time I used one was the one I bought at camp perry 2 years ago and was the radocy cold blue..... but I made the mistake of not reading the instructions: you have to used baking soda mixed with water to neutrilized the reaction.... otherwise,, it willl rust... and trust me... it did.... any way . I'm looking for the best cold blue that the market can offer.... with out the hassle of using baking soda and water... I looked at the oxpho from brownells.... some said that is the best.... but I want to heard from you and please tell me how good and how easy is to use...
I have used the birchwood casey and the results are ok... I want something better..... hope you can help me.. thanks,.. javier.:confused:

SHARPSHOOTER
July 27, 2007, 01:26
Brownells 44/40 or their oxpho blue are both excellent. Better than anything else you will probably find.

ostrobothnian
July 27, 2007, 08:13
Have had great results using Blue Wonder. All you need is a clean surface, a heat source (like a heat gun) and some clean paper towels and rags. There are three bottles in a kit. A cleaner, blueing agent, and a treatment.
Works beautifully!

JAVIER
July 28, 2007, 03:50
thanks for the info.... any body else, with more data on different cold blue??
thanks, javier:fal: :fal:

Mebsuta
July 28, 2007, 04:20
Oxpho is the easiest and best I have ever used. IMO There is some after-rust with 44/40 and it should be neutralized. Surface preparation is what counts with all of them.

danimal
August 02, 2007, 19:31
Mebsuta is right, surface prep is key.
I have heated a 50/50 mix of 3-in-1 oil and 44/40 and used it to blue small parts. Clean well after and apply fresh oil.

remauto1100
August 02, 2007, 19:57
Van's instant cold blue works great and can achieve a dark black if wanted as well.

Groovin61
August 02, 2007, 21:17
I'll second the recommendation for VAN's cold blue. I've also tried Brownell's, Oxpho, and Birchwood Casey. VAN's was more consistent than the others. If you were just spot blueing a little bit, than the Oxpho and Brownell's work fine. For a whole barrel, the VAN's worked better the few times I used it. Again, the key is prepping. You can't just slap it on and hope for the best. At a minimum, you need to remove all the oils and contamination on the metal. I prefer to use Brake Clean on a barrel that has sweated out in the hot sun all day. That seems to make a big difference. Also, the blue job will only be as good as the metal itself. If its pitted, it will still be there. So, take care of any metal issues before you start.

Good luck.

sear
August 02, 2007, 22:11
birchcaseys touch up pen is okay for nicks,screw heads,front sites,etc.
I sizzle the area with a lighter and wipe off the carbon before application.
then coat with grease and let it age.
Oxpho blue looked good on an old 92 winchester,but it eventually went patina brown all over,which is still better than bare metal,and the experts couldnt tell it from natural aging.

Clark
August 03, 2007, 12:10
It depends on the steel.
Just keep trying different cold blues and degreasing in between.

For rifle barrels, I like to cold blue them in the lathe, while turning.

my speal:


Subject: Re: Cold bluing
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I have been experimenting with cold blues.
I find that every piece of steel seems to react a little differently.

These days I wear disposable gloves and my first try is:
1) Degrease with Simple Green
2) rinse
3) dry with kleenex
4) rub on G96 Gun Blue creme* with Scotch brite scour pad while spinning
object in the mini lathe. Pinch hard enough to rub off some of the blue
but not all of it.
5) Degrease
6) rinse
7) dry
8) apply oxpho blue [with cue tip or scour pad in lathe]
9) Do not rinse, but cover with motor oil.
10) let stand over night [it gets really dark overnight]
11) wipe off
12) re oil
*Sometimes I use Dicropan T-4 for the first blue, because it is really
dark, but not resistant to steel wool.

The advantage of my system is there is $15 invested, it takes 10
minutes to do, it gets really dark, it stands up to rubbing.

This may not be as durable or pretty as factory, but in 10 minutes
effort, I get 95% of the way there. You want it nicer? do it all again
and get 97%.

The idea is to get a dark but wimpy blue in the micro crevices, and a
resilient but not so dark blue on the tops of the micro ridges.

The beauty of applying the cold blue with an abrasive, is that all that
will rub off is already rubbed off.

Cold bluing has been talked about here at rec.guns:
http://groups.google.com/groups?as_oq=%22cold%20bluing%22%20&as_ugrou...

So has hot bluing:
http://groups.google.com/groups?as_oq=%22hot%20bluing%22%20&as_ugroup...

So has rust bluing:
http://groups.google.com/groups?as_oq=%22rust%20bluing%22%20&as_ugrou...

Real guns has done rust bluing.
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar48.htm
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar51.htm

I MAY get to rust bluing.
But right now I am still cold bluing.

Gunga Din
August 10, 2007, 01:17
I like Jenolite Kold Blak, an English product not usually available here. I got my first bottle of it some 25 years ago, bought by mail order from an ad in Shotgun News. I got another bottle from Dillon Reloading, perhaps 10 or 15 years ago. They have not had it since they sold out long ago. I could use another bottle, I'm getting kinda low. Nothing else does it for me, although I'll have to try VAN's.

Mebsuta
August 14, 2007, 11:56
Originally posted by Clark
I MAY get to rust bluing.
But right now I am still cold bluing.


Tambien. With rust bluing I think you have to boil water, and otherwise there is swabbing and carding, not unlike cold blue. Teh Germans made about 6-7 million Gew 98s and rust blued them. Of course they left the receivers in the white. They probably looked at the interior surfaces and thought, "We're not carding that. We'll leave it white and it will turn brown. You are going to die anyway so don't worry about it."