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View Full Version : Making an R1 barrel from a G1 barrel


goldenspurholderx2
July 23, 2007, 12:35
OK don't ask me why but I want to take a brand new G1 barrel from DSA and make an R1 barrel out of it. Lathe off the bayo lug on the front, check. Thread the muzzle for a flash hider, check.

Question time. Will a sling swivel attach were the bipod grove is? Can I just lathe off the sling swivel grooves and have a good non-bipod cut barrel.

I want a BRAND NEW, CHROME LINED barrel, that is why I am going to go through this. A friend sent me a cherry SA kit and this will be my only rifle when I move back to NY, that is why I'm big on a brand spankin' new barrel. Just when I leave I'll have to silver solder a fakie flash suppressor on the end until the revolution comes!:biggrin:

P.S. ce, I had to break down and buy a DSA for it, sorry man.

Mosin Guy
July 23, 2007, 12:39
yes you can do this and it will work out OK..........

goldenspurholderx2
July 23, 2007, 13:00
Thank you, I just wanted to get some experinced advise before I plunked down the $$$.

arashi
July 23, 2007, 13:33
I would just thread it and leave the bayo lug intact. I have several Rhodie kits that came like that.

ce
July 23, 2007, 15:10
Right on, Dave, that barrel was only intended as a build exercise so you would be comfortable cutting on your final barrel, what with the cutting and the sanding and the polishing and the grinding and the welding and again with the grinding and the fitting and the fixing.

But it seems you harbour no such reticence, and are quite willing to work on your new barrel with the hacksaw and the chisel and the files and the blowtorch and the grinder and the sandblaster and again with the blowtorch.

All I can say is, CARRY ON!!

NHBandit
July 23, 2007, 17:55
I have to agree with arashi. Of the 30 or so Rhodie kits I've owned 2 or 3 came with G1 barrels that were also threaded for the flash hider. All of them appeared to be like new barrels so I'm assuming they were field replacements. There is no such thing as an improper Rhodie. They used whatever was available at the time for replacement parts. If it was me I'd just thread the muzzle & add the FH.

J. Armstrong
July 23, 2007, 18:17
Originally posted by arashi
I would just thread it and leave the bayo lug intact. I have several Rhodie kits that came like that.

A common practice on the rhodies, both G1 and standard plain muzzle barrels.
FWIW, Venezuela used a similar mod.

Otherwise, all that extra machining and hoo-hah is a waste of sweat - there are plenty of nice threaded, non bipod chrome lined barrels around that don't need the hacksaw,lathe, sandpaper, file, blasting, burning, parking,hammering, and other such foreplay ;) ( with a nod to ce !!!)
Then again, it's your barrel - have fun :biggrin:

goldenspurholderx2
July 23, 2007, 20:57
Basically If I'm reading this right I can just throw the G1 barrel on that thing, don't worry about the bipod cut, bayo lug, don't even have to thread the damn thing if I don't want to and ce won't give me $hit for fuggering the really nice R1 kit he gave me? Will it help if I make it baby poo/battle pick-up finish? I know ce loves his baby poo! Seriously, a man gives me a kit because he is sick of me bitching about my "range queen" with the free floated, fluted, Viagra dispensing stock, I just want to do the man proud, that's why Ive been looking for a Century receiver for so long.

J. Armstrong
July 23, 2007, 22:23
I'm sure there were Rhodies with plain muzzle barrels, but if the pix I've seen are any indication, most would have been threaded and the combo device installed. In later years they dispensed with the sling swivels entirely, so no worries about using this slot or that slot. No carry handle, either. I always like the baby poo ---on other folks' rifles, anyways !

Roger on making ce happy - do it up right and you can probably get him to write a verse or two about you and the rifle.

No higher honor here ;) :beer:

ce
July 24, 2007, 08:56
Here's a thought, Dave, if you like I can send you a wood buttstock that would also be correct for your Rhodie.

Bugs refinished the buttplate and ferrule with new park, but it has some nice wood putty repairs and cracks with scratches so I wouldn't sand it down.

And I can mate a pair of Aussie laminate handguards to give a total wood conversion.

Now, remember, you have to stay with the counseling program to help you overcome your aversion to scratches, otherwise you'll end up like one of those douches that has to scrub off the brass kisses with muff remover.

101ABN327
July 26, 2007, 19:43
Originally posted by arashi
I would just thread it and leave the bayo lug intact. I have several Rhodie kits that came like that.

+1!!!

There were G-1's in Rhodie service. Just leave the bipod off, add some three slot plastic HG's and paint it!

Check this out...

All the guys on the left hand side of the Unimog have G-1's!

http://www.hunt101.com/img/445391-big.jpg

Abominog
July 26, 2007, 21:34
I question the "G1" barrels...in my experience (and this may be limited) these are not G1 barrels, but rather "a" and "b" type barrels (like Argie barrels, not G1 barrels).

The ones in the photo may not be G1s but the earlier "a" or "af" types. Then again, they may be G1. One would have to measure the distance to the lug.

Personally, I'd say thread that baby and leave the lug! It would look/ be correct, and isn't a bayo lug, so legal in NY.

NHBandit
July 27, 2007, 08:24
Originally posted by Abominog
I question the "G1" barrels...in my experience (and this may be limited) these are not G1 barrels, but rather "a" and "b" type barrels (like Argie barrels, not G1 barrels).

The ones in the photo may not be G1s but the earlier "a" or "af" types. Then again, they may be G1. One would have to measure the distance to the lug.

Personally, I'd say thread that baby and leave the lug! It would look/ be correct, and isn't a bayo lug, so legal in NY. ALL of the Rhodie kits I handled that had a lug type barrel (with muzzle threads & FH added) had Belgian proofs, G1 type markings, and the lug location was in the proper place for a G1 not the location used for the early Belgian, Argie, Izzy lug type barrels. All measuring was done from the chamber end to eliminate any variation due to the muzzle threads being added. ALL were also bipod cut and while they may exist, I have never heard of bipod cut "A" or "B" type barrels. Just my observation from owning 4-5 Rhodie kits with these barrels. As I said earlier the bore was great on all of them and I suspect they were bought from either FN or Germany to use as replacement barrels during rebuilds. How they ended up in Rhodesia is anyones guess but I'd bet the farm they were new surplus G1 barrels when installed. In fact 1 of them appeared to be brand new and had a piece of red tape wrapped around it which may have indicated it was a rearsenally rifle. At the time I thought what a shame it was that it had been threaded because of the scarcity of good G1 barrels.

goldenspurholderx2
July 27, 2007, 11:59
Thanks for all the help. I'll leave it G1 and slap her on there with some threads. I've been doing more searches here and it looks like I'll be drilling a hole or maybe just a 1" diameter depression in the mag well and breaking a carry handle. Yes gentelmen I am going Rhodie! I might even use para internals with the nose hacksawed off the cover. I like para internals on even fixed butt rifles and since there really is no wrong way to Rhodie I might just do that.

Bigger_Is_Better
July 27, 2007, 16:11
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/aaronn/R1/DSC01511.jpg

This is my R1 with a G1 lugged barrel and combo device. Original paint also.

Hope This Helps,
Aaron

101ABN327
July 28, 2007, 11:02
Originally posted by Abominog
I question the "G1" barrels...in my experience (and this may be limited) these are not G1 barrels, but rather "a" and "b" type barrels (like Argie barrels, not G1 barrels).

The ones in the photo may not be G1s but the earlier "a" or "af" types. Then again, they may be G1. One would have to measure the distance to the lug.

Personally, I'd say thread that baby and leave the lug! It would look/ be correct, and isn't a bayo lug, so legal in NY.

Nope. These are G-1's. The second from the top still has the metal HG's. My buddy, EX1, has an original set of Rhodie painted G-1 HG's. It didn't take long to lose them as they are the worst HG's design FN devised. Too damned hot and STAY hot!

shootist87122
July 28, 2007, 12:11
Ed Vandenberg threaded Tactical Tim's (original) G1 barrel and added his brake when he did the free-float tube conversion. It's one accurate shooter (assuming the nut behind the trigger is up to it). I'd say leave the lug in place - it's almost unnoticeable and not an issue, IMO.

Another solution is to lay your hands on a NIW G1 lower and just build a G1 instead. Watch for horizontal slop between the (especially DSA?) upper and the R1 lower receiver. Out of three R1s I've built on DSAs, all needed a diff lower for perfect lockup.

MasterGunner
July 28, 2007, 14:28
Or, you could buy an R1 barrel. PM me.

:fal:

J. Armstrong
July 28, 2007, 14:55
Originally posted by goldenspurholderx2
I might even use para internals with the nose hacksawed off the cover. I like para internals on even fixed butt rifles and since there really is no wrong way to Rhodie I might just do that.

While not unheard of, paras were quite scarce in Rhodesia. The few there were highly valued, most often carried by officers. I think para internals in a 50.00 might be stretching it a bit vis-a-vis "authenticity". But, hey, it's your dime :)

Radio
July 28, 2007, 18:16
Originally posted by 101ABN327

G-1's... are the worst HG's design FN devised. Too damned hot and STAY hot!And exactly like the StGs, which are lovingly called "handburners". I like the Izzy if I want to ditch the bipod.

--Radio