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CeeKay
July 21, 2007, 07:50
So... Other than bluing, browning, parkerizing and chrome-plating...

What other finishes are there?

Dura-coat or Alumahyde over sanded/blasted/wooled steel? Would that work similar to Park?


Thanks,
- CK

Deltaten
July 21, 2007, 09:51
"similar to park?"

nuthin's similar!

Paint is paint, blue is blue. Park is park! :D

'Not to sound smug or smartassed, just that there's difference in use and application.
For some of the series , park is a match to original. Some were paint over park. only a few were blued. I like park and paint over park; but that's just me;)

Paint over blasted steel is an option for those w/o park set-up. Some mfgr's have a great product...at an equally great price.

Me? I use 1640r on the AKS and Brownell's Alumahyde on the L1A1 as it matches the stoving pretty well. Take the path of least resistance (cheapest) and whatever suits your tastes!

Hope it comes out as you like it
Paul

gunplumber
July 21, 2007, 10:53
park is probably the easiest to set up and run.

Bluing is a little harder and a lot more dangerous.

then a good moly like Gun Kote.

Duracote is garbage, might as well use krylon.

Rust browning is a very tedious, labor intensive process for obtaining a red irion oxide, then converting it to black iron oxide.

Its very primitive and other than historical interest on reproduction antique guns, has no place.

my recommendation is buy the brownells mang phosphate park solution, a small sand blaster and when you are getting good results, add in the gun kote

CeeKay
July 21, 2007, 11:57
I was actually thinking about bluing or browning... But like you said, too dangerous and too tedious...

Also, I stumbled across a finish called "Black Chrome" while surfing for Bluing/Browning how-to's (to get a general comparison of difficulty between blue/brown/park/etc...)

Dura-Cote looks nice in pictures... But I believe most of the ones like as seen on DSA's website are DC over Park...

I think if I go crazy, I'll do the browning. Seems to be the easiest cost-wise, yet the most difficult labor-wise... Plus, I've never seen a browned FAL. Otherwise, I think I'll just go with a good small park setup... One website (I believe it was the Brownell's website) said a good gas grill should be enough to bring the park tank to the proper temp... I've got enough of those... I can get a parking grill for free most anywhere... :)

Thanks once again, FAL Files members, for the enlightenment. :)


- CK
P.s. A friend of mine has a small top-feed sand shooting gun thing for an air compressor... Would this be sufficient for sandblasting, or will I need to get something a bit better? I can get the sand for pretty cheap... And, if I use a nice big jug, I could possibly reuse the sand (as bead blasters do).

gunplumber
July 21, 2007, 12:41
i figure to rust brown a complete fal w/all small parts would be around 80 hours. to park it, about 3 hours.

don't do the silicon sand in a confined space, and wear a respirator (not a dust mask) but it will work ok - a lot better than no blasting. Small parts can do in a cofee can with holes poked in bottom.

Diomed
July 21, 2007, 22:56
Oil blacking, though that's almost as much a heat treatment as a finish. Not so useful for a FAL.