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View Full Version : Jumping the gun, but have a question about restoration...


CeeKay
July 16, 2007, 22:29
Sorry, I couldn't resist the pun. :p

Anyway, I've been lightly looking for a kit again, and a few of them got me wondering...

How do you guys get beaten and scarred furniture smooth again? Do you replace it, or do you have a special trick/technique? Sanding? Glazing Putty? Bondo? Fiberglass resin? Or do you just use paint to fill light scratches as the automotive world sometimes does?


Thanks,
- CK

P.s. Has there ever been any successful blueing done to FALs? I got to wondering about that as well... :P

newfalguy101
July 16, 2007, 22:54
First things first: Paint doesnt fill ANYTHING, it highlights it!!

the smoother/glossier/better the paintjob, the WORSE the overall job looks if the substrate isnt right!!!


Now

I can only answer the last question, I have seen/fondled and swooned after a blued L1A1 that was offered for sale at local gunshows.

Absolutely gorgeous, bright blue with wood furniture :love: :love:

Run-N-Iron (http://www.runniron.com/custom/assault.html)

goose
July 16, 2007, 23:31
This way is the tits. Just let it sit a good while after finishing to harden well.
Best thing is if you gouge it you can do it all over again.
http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=119046&referrerid=2267

bykerhd
July 17, 2007, 07:11
Bright blue is not really practical for most FALs, at least that I've seen. You have to remove too much metal to obtain the high polish to get that bright blue.
Matte blue over a bead blasted surface can be done.

Bluing by itself is not a very durable process and offers little protection. Parkerizing and then bluing will should give you a deep blue, almost black color and a much more durable finish.

Go with GunKote if you want a smoother and probably the most durable finish. You then have a choice of colors. The metal still has to be prepared before the GunKote is applied and then it needs to be baked.

The finishes like DuraCoat will provide similar looking results to GunKote, are easier to apply, but are not as hard and probably not as durable.

Are you talking about wood or plastic furniture. Huge differences in the two when trying to bring them back. The procedure shown for plastic should work. The DuraCoat is supposed to work on plastic furniture by the way.

It is very difficult and sometimes likely impossible to restore some wood furniture to like new appearance. A few small dings and gouges can sometimes be filled with something like Brownell's Acra-Glas used by itself, without the fiberglass or other strengtheners if they can't be steamed out. Light oil stains or discolorations can sometimes be bleached out. Overall, you only have so much wood to work with. So, if it is too badly messed up, you will only get a "new" appearance by replacing it.