View Full Version : Cocking handle knob replacement
December 27, 2000, 12:42
Hi. Over the last week I've been building up an STG. I've got in 90% finished, the only sticking point is the cocking handle.
The knob is machined steel, open on one end to recieve a post, flat on the other.
My kit lacks the hardware to attach the knob to the handle. What would it take to secure it? A pin and spring?
Is it possible to attach the knob in some other way? I searched thru the archives and found references to pinning or screwing the knob to the slide - is this an acceptable way to attach?
I'm anxious to finish the rifle, as I will only have another few days to try it out before I have to leave home again.
December 27, 2000, 12:50
Funny thing, my STG-58 was the same way. This won't be much of a help to you, but as I was going to replace this part as one of my U.S. parts anyway, I ordered a U.S. made replacement from DSA.
I understand that the handle is somehow riveted on. I couldn't figure it out. I'd be interested to hear, however, how this is done.
By the way, for the short term, I bet you could put the charging handle slide in without the knob, just to get you by until you come up with the final solution.
December 27, 2000, 13:43
If both of your guys kits came as refinished part bags (ala-classic arms or tapco,) I think I got the same kit a while back with what looks like a knob that is a press fit on the charging handle , Anyway that is my take on it, I was going to try a heat the knob and tap it on sorta deal.
But then again, I am missing the detent and spring for the charging handle as well, and what I received from Gun parts corp. is not going to fit, so then again I might just go with the USA. (whew!-How's that for a couple of run-on sentences...)
December 27, 2000, 17:35
Typically, the knob is riveted on. Rivets can be purchased for a couple bucks from DSA, but if its a CAI reject kit as I suspect (seen many of the detached knobs) then the hole was drilled out and is now too big for the shank of the rivet. In these cases you can tap the hole 10/32 and use a tiny washer (optional) and a socket head cap screw to retain the knob. Remove the plunger and spring and then before loc-titing the screw in place, make sure the screw isn't so long that it limits the movement of the plunger and spring. The plunger must be able to depress until flush.
T. Mark "Gunplumber" Graham
Arizona Response Systems
5501 North 7th Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85013
December 27, 2000, 20:32
I heated the knob, froze the rod and pressed them together (after installing the dentent and spring).
December 28, 2000, 09:29
I used GP's advice on one of mine. Socket head cap screws were $0.09 at Home Depot. I had to shorten it with my Dremel to get it to work right.
Originally posted by gunplumber:
In these cases you can tap the hole 10/32 and use a tiny washer (optional) and a socket head cap screw to retain the knob
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December 28, 2000, 09:36
There wasn't even a hole in the knob on mine! I looked at for a long time trying to figure out what I was missing, then figured, since I needed some U.S. parts anyway, to just call DSA.
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