View Full Version : help - cocking knob just fell off....at range...

September 24, 2001, 09:52
Hello All, I was just at the range on sat. (I finally got my sighting stuff done - 100 yrds. and all in the rings, two in the X), but during some shots I see what seems to be a case flying off the left side of my reciever... Then I realize the cocking knob fell off. I have a STG-58, with what I believe is the original Steyr metal knob (big and round). On inspectiong I can not figure out how this thing ever attached to the straight post it was attached to... I am lost, what keeps this thing on, and who would have the part, or does the whole thing have to be replaced (the whole lever?)?


September 24, 2001, 11:39
Same thing hapened to me with my M444. I figured I'd just replace the whole thing. I'll probably tap the mounting stud and put the knob back in place with a washer and a machine screw to use as a spare.

September 24, 2001, 11:43
The cocking handle is riveted on and a replacement knob and rivet can be had from DS Arms. Look on their website:

DS Arms Website (http://www.dsarms.com/)

September 24, 2001, 12:22
thanks for the replies, but do you mean this part -

U.S. Made Cocking Handle Knob and Rivet
Part #US047-C $10.00

Because, the one I have (the knob) is blind, and does not seem like it could use a rivit, or does it flare out internally when you hit it?

Also will the DSA handle knob, retro fit on the stock Steyr one?



September 24, 2001, 18:29
The rivet is not blind; it is merely wearing sunglasses. :cool:

You will need to remove the cocking handle to make this repair. Look carefully at the top of the cocking handle between the knob and the part that sticks into the receiver to engage the carrier... you'll notice a little pin. Drive out this pin from the bottom upwards with a 1/16" punch. Now you can pull out the part that moves the carrier. (Might be tight, may need to use padded pliers to pull it straight out.)

Now, remove your handguards; open the bipod legs and unscrew the handguard screw on the right side of the gasblock (the screw is "trapped" and shouldn't come out of the left handguard, but it will disengage from the right handguard so you can pull both sides off). If you desire, you can pull these off before you work on the cocking handle, it doesn't matter.

Now with the handguards off, you can slide the cocking handle forward and off the rifle. Look again at the top of the cocking handle, just forward of the knob; you'll notice another little pin. Again, using a 1/16" punch, tap from the bottom upwards and drive out the pin (it's under spring pressure; to make the final part easier, push the entire cocking handle flat against something and use your hand to push the punch horizontally. DON'T lose these little bitty pins!!!)

Now relax the spring; it will drop out along with a detent pin. NOW you can get to the back of the rivet in question. Drill this "hidden" side out just enough so that you can knock the rivet out from the back with a punch. Install your new knob and rivet, then stake the rivet from behind, inside the knob. Reverse steps to replace the cocking handle, this time driving the little retaining pins from the top downwards. Yes, the DSA knob will fit just fine on the stock Steyr; it should look fabulous and the cocking handle will function great. Enjoy!!!


September 24, 2001, 20:37
If you have the same one I do, and it sounds like it, I read a few posts about Century screwiing them up. Not sure if they actually did, anyway, I read a few posts about using lock-tite to keep it in place. I used a small pointed punch to flare the end just a tad, and then WECSOG'ed it back on with a hammer. Worked for me. If you do it this way use lock-tite and DO NOT mushroom the end. I couldnt even tell I had flared it by looking, just that the knob wouldnt slide on freely!

September 24, 2001, 21:01
BTW, I mean the piece that the knob slides onto....

September 24, 2001, 21:53
See also:

and http://www.l1a1.com/cgi-bin/forums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002730

and http://www.l1a1.com/cgi-bin/forums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=003077

September 25, 2001, 06:51
thanks Radio and everyone else, this will be my next weekend project!

As always, everyone on the server helps!

September 25, 2001, 13:30
I am particularly fond of the first reference that Gary posted. What GP doesn't mention is that it would behoove you to use locktite on the buttonhead screw when assembling the cocking handle.

Originally posted by gary.jeter:
[QB]See also: