FAL set-trigger

[W.E.G.]

Comments and idea from one of our members.

[W.E.G.]

Originally posted by Bprewit
I modified my FAL a bit to get accuracy that is as consistent as my scope mount will allow. It has DSA medium contour barrel (4-5yrs ago and DSA stated the barrel was imported from Argentina), floated handguard and adjustable set trigger. I can get the trigger pull down to about 1.5lbs with no un-intentional misfires but I shoot this at the range more than anything and would not consider it to be a carry along hunting rifle with the trigger pull that light as once set a good jar to the rifle along any axis will release the hammer though engaging the safety does keep it from releasing the hammer with impact. Accuracy is excellent considering my shooting skills! Very tight headspacing, good barrel, take all stress off the barrel, tighten the upper and lower slop, and a trigger job and its great for distance shooting.

[W.E.G.]

Originally posted by Bprewit
...follow up shots are fairly quick with just a small amount of effort pushing forward on the set trigger to get ready for the next round.

[W.E.G.]

Mr. Prewit, is ther any chance we can get some more good photos of the innards of that lower receiver so as we can see how all the parts fit together?

I think this is a very clever modification BTW.

[Bprewit]

MAYBE THIS IS UNSAFE! I am not a gunsmith! I did this one night when I could not sleep and used what little parts/tools I had available. I know there is a better/cleaner/nicer way to accomplish this but as I said I only used what I had on hand and that was not much. Hand drill, dremel tool, vise, hammer, screwdrivers, etc. This was experimental and plan to change it a bit once I get my shop moved and set up. I am sure others have ideas and opinions and probably a good reason why this is not safe and it would be great to hear especially from those that do gun repairs/builds on a more regular basis. Just want to make sure someone else dosent do something from my example and hurt themselves/someone.
My basic understanding of how the trigger operates led me to this modification. I did remove metal from the trigger but did not touch the sear or anything that the sear rides on or comes in contact with. A picture of assembled lower- notice I removed the trigger plunger and spring
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/bprewit/settrigger003.jpg
when the rifle is in loaded ready to fire position the rear of the trigger sits firmly on the lower reciever being pushed forward by the plunger. I needed to create a small amount of space under this so using a dremel tool I ground off .0625 (approx). I also cut and modified this a bit to attatch my forward "set trigger" but it is a poor design and there should be a better way for attatchment. Here is a picture of the trigger, you can see where the rear of the trigger (area that touches the cam of the selector switch when moved to safety or fire)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/bprewit/settrigger008.jpg
I ground the lower just forward of the trigger slot to give clearance for the set trigger:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/bprewit/settrigger014.jpg
and drilled a hole in the lower reciever- the hole is directly under the rear of the trigger so that my added spring and sleeve would contact this area:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/bprewit/settrigger013.jpg
I bent a thin piece of steel cut the same width as the trigger guard into an L shape and attatched it to the frame that holds the trigger plunger and spring. The plunger spring is a slot in the front and a small hole in the rear. I drilled and tapped the L shaped bracket so that a screw was inserted in the hole of the plunger frame and into the L bracket. Hard for me to explain but the picture should help to understand:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/bprewit/settrigger011.jpg
I also drilled and tapped the L bracket exactly over the hole I drilled into the lower reciever. This is for the adjustment for trigger pull also having a nut to lock it in place after adjustment. For the sleeve I actually used part of a brass cleaning rod, drilled so that my spring would fit inside. Here is the spring/sleeve showing how they contact the trigger:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/bprewit/settrigger015.jpg
and assembled:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/bprewit/settrigger018.jpg
I suck at explanations but hopefully the pictures will help to get an idea of what I did. Without the plunger and spring the trigger must be moved forward to reset the sear on the trigger, so I added the set trigger and removed the plunger and spring. With this done it still took 4.5-5lbs of force to pull the trigger. The adjustable spring is actually applying force to the trigger which eliminates creep and lesses the force you need to apply. (best example) If you adjust the spring and sleeve to apply 3lbs of force on the trigger then your finger only needs to apply 1.5lbs of force to release the sear. Probably an idea that is stupid to most but for me it works excellent. Adjustable for different situations and makes for a nice light and crisp trigger for targets. I will be flamed for this probably but its ok I can take it :P

[Dation]

That's a cool idea. Did you experiment on an import HTS or start with the FSE set?

[robmac]

Great idea and execution - especially using cave man tools - very talented!

[Bprewit]

This is a old topic but was unsure of my mods back then and now a few thousand rounds and couple of years later it still works like a charm and have had no problems with the FAL. I know others have custom trigger mods done to their fal's and wonder what/how they work?

[ggiilliiee]

how does it handle a giggly bump test?...saftey on...looks very similar to a slip in part ive made that makes an ak go bang bang real fast...i wont go into that though ... :wink: ...be carefull ..:)

[Bprewit]

Originally posted by ggiilliiee
how does it handle a giggly bump test?...saftey on...looks very similar to a slip in part ive made that makes an ak go bang bang real fast...i wont go into that though ... :wink: ...be carefull ..:)

I had to be real careful with the total adjustment length of the assembly. I made the adjustment screw short enough that all the way in is just right and cannot go any further. If the adjustment screw were longer then a jar to the rifle (like the bolt slamming shut) would release the hammer. It would be a bad situation as could cause it to fire before the bolt carrier was fully locked and I dont think that would have a very good outcome! Some fine tuning by adjusting all the way in then hitting the butt of the rifle on the ground nice and hard and having the hammer stay put let me know how long to make the adjustment screw.

[ggiilliiee]

exelent !!!....no slam intended ...just concerned about YOUR saftey .....hehe and mine at the range ..no offense ..
seek patent ...make more !!.....hehe very ingenoius ....you rock .........and roll ...:bow:

[Bprewit]

man Raspeguy thats some damn impressive mods as well!

[ggiilliiee]

rapsy ...bada bing ...but john has a strong finger ..ehhe after 8 years of 500 a weekend ya never notice it .(personally)...but the jugs do ...hehe...an opened up rail rifle will still shoot faster ...does no good to reset quick when your still waiting for the slide ta come back home ...ask andyc.....hehe:beer:..

[AndyC]

I do love the "Chinggg!", that's a fact :wink:

Great mods, guys :bow: :beer: