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daschnoz
October 26, 2006, 06:40
WD-40 is quite a bit cheaper than case lube. Since I reload to save $$$.....

Provided that I wash the brass very well to avoid fouling the primer or powder, is there any reason to not use WD-40? Is there something about case lube that makes it special?

1006587
October 26, 2006, 07:30
It won't work. Case lube needs to be like a thin, high pressure, grease because of the pressure involved. WD will push away and leave you with metal to metal contact. That means a stuck case. It is just the wrong tool for this job.

I have used many types of case lube and find the best to be Imperial Sizing Wax. I got the smallest tin they make about 5 years ago because I just wanted to try it out. I have barely put a dent in it. Projected out, I expect it to last at least 5 more years so that works out to about .50c a year for case lube. .30c a year if you get it on sale. Ease of use doesn't matter. The stuff works so well I have no desire to use any other lube. It is manually applied using your fingers which won't work if you load on a progressive.

Bug Tussell
October 26, 2006, 07:35
Originally posted by daschnoz
WD-40 is quite a bit cheaper than case lube. Since I reload to save $$$.....

Provided that I wash the brass very well to avoid fouling the primer or powder, is there any reason to not use WD-40? Is there something about case lube that makes it special?

Absolutely, positively no way! Only an idiot would use WD-40 to lube a case with!

It took me forever to get that stuck case out of my resizing die!!! :rofl:

I used it back in the late 70's. Never again.

Use the case lube that you'rs supposed to use. It ain't that expensive.

daschnoz
October 26, 2006, 07:38
Thanks. I was just looking at plain $$$ per ounce. I didn't realize that a $5 or so 8oz. investment would last me so long. Off to Midway...

W.E.G.
October 26, 2006, 08:38
I use RCBS case lube.

It is water-soluable, so it just rinses off in hot water.

I put a glop of the stuff on my hands and smear on my palms and fingers.
Then I can rapidly wipe it on the cases by hand. Add more glop as palms become dry. Wash hands. Size cases. Wash cases (I use a milk jug with holes in the bottom). Drain. Pour cases in cardboard shipping box. Shake a bit to remove excess water. Dump cases in dry box. Let air-dry for 24 hours. Prime and load.

Survey Punk
October 26, 2006, 09:40
I second Imperial.

JB

g5
October 26, 2006, 09:54
As above. Never ... never... never.

Every case will be stuck.

Imperial is great. Also lanolin, like Dillon's, as well as the various heavy body greases like RCBS.

kycrawler
October 26, 2006, 17:29
i use the hornady one shot in the spray cans i $5 can will do 3k large rifle cases you spray it on no mess , no fuss i dont bother removing it before shooting as you cant even tell it is on there

River Pig
October 26, 2006, 18:28
I haven't tried it yet, but somebody said PAM. Anybody here tried it?
Right now I'm using Dillion or RCBS lonolin spray. Put about 1/3 a coffee can full of cases and shake, while rolling it a bit at 45 deg so that most of the case mouths are up. Then I spray, shake/roll and spray again. Then I put on lid and shake around for a little while. Haven't had any problems with stuck cases at all. I do a lot of .223, .308, 30-06 that way. At first I was afraid not every mouth would get lubed, but I guess as long as most have lube, it stays on the die enough to get by some without lube inside neck.

packratt
October 26, 2006, 18:42
You will also load up a bunch of ammo that will shortly be duds.

WD-40 is an oil that has penetrating properties. It will eventually find its way to the powder and primers and fooch them.

kennaquhair
October 28, 2006, 13:35
+1 on the Imperial Sizing Wax.

If you are in the home supply store looking at WD-40 wander over an aisle to electrical and pick up a quart bottle of GB Wire-Aide, Wire Pulling Lubricant. It's cheaper than WD-40 and apparently makes a great resizing lube. It is a wax based lubricant, wipes on and wipes off, can be used dry or wet and apparently doesn't degrade powder or primers. Acts and feels a lot like the Lee resizing lube. No personal experience with it although I have a quart in the garage. Noted its similarities to the Lee lube when I was pulling some wire, and wondered if it would work as a resizing lube. Someone has apparently tried it and it works!

kennaquhair
October 28, 2006, 13:48
Link re GB Wire-Aide

http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/homestretch2/index.asp

DYNOMIKE
October 28, 2006, 14:17
Originally posted by kycrawler
i use the hornady one shot in the spray cans i $5 can will do 3k large rifle cases you spray it on no mess , no fuss i dont bother removing it before shooting as you cant even tell it is on there

One shot is the Only way to go IMO..
Although I have also had good luck with Dillons lube it is a Pump Srayer (used to be a Spray can and worked quite well) and kind of a Pain to use.

IF you roll your cases on a Pad there are a few that work gret, but this practice is SLOOOOW. I also noticed a Learning curve on just the right amount of lube so as not to dent my csaes..
I still have the stuff, but never use it anymore..

fire for effect
October 29, 2006, 00:39
One guy I know uses Automatic Transmision Fluid for his reloading. I actually tried it with .223 and had no problems what so ever. I didn't like it for resizing .308.

shootist87122
October 29, 2006, 00:50
I use Hornday One Shot. I understand castor oil is very good and super slick.

DJ
October 29, 2006, 09:53
Imperial Sizing Wax is great stuff. A small tin of it lasts forever.
For batching .223 and 7.62 I use Dillon's lube.