View Full Version : Filling knot in stock

April 10, 2002, 20:45
I have and Ironwood second that has a knot near the butt. Should I fill it with something before finishing, or just let it be? If I should fill it, what are your recommendations.


April 10, 2002, 21:50
FalFreak: How much of a cavity do you have? Is it stable or are there pieces that seem ready to fall out? Is it s solid knot?

A picture or description will help in giving you the right advice.

April 10, 2002, 22:43
The knot apears solid. I does have a rather large void in the middle however. Pics for your perusal included: :D



And yes, it's and AK stock. Sorry bout that. Hehehe :p

Dan at VOW
April 10, 2002, 22:51
Fill it with clear epoxy, let it set for 24 hours, then sand and finish. Easy fix with great results. HTH, Dan.

April 10, 2002, 23:33
Thanks Dan. I almost have the furniture all nice and fitted to the the AK. The lower hand guard has way too much up and down play as of now. I think sheet metal bent in a U shape and fitted near the front of the hand guard is exactly what the doctor ordered. I haven't even started on the L1A1 wood yet. Haven't decided on what color stain to use. :( I have some Minwax Cherry color that I think will look great on the AK, but I was thinking of picking up some Special Walnut or some other darker color for the L1. Anyone have some suggestions there?

April 10, 2002, 23:58
One method I use is mixing some of the wood dust from sanding with an epoxy such as Agra-glass. Slightly over fill the knot and let dry and sand. Stain as usual.

April 11, 2002, 02:10
Falfreak: That knot doesn't look too awful. I'm with sledge on this one. Wood dust and some binder is probably the best answer, although I find the epoxy idea intriguing.

If you are into self-inflicted pain (like I am on some projects) a toothpaste like consistency filler of walnut dust and tung oil can be layer applied (no more than 1/16" at a time for thickness) until you come to the surface. Add a little Japan Dryer to speed up cure. Let sit 1 hour between layers. When you reach the surface let dry overnight and sand overall with 320 dry. Apply your first coat of tung oil (with Japan Dryer and any stain you choose, if any) and sand it in using a circular motion with 320 wet-or-dry paper. This will fill your wood grain. After 30 minutes wipe across the grain (minimizes filler pullout). Repeat with 400. Apply last 2 coats without sanding but steel wooling between. Final rub with 0000 steel wool. The result should be a nice satin finish with minimal grain (and knot) showthrough.

So far I have not found any putty that works very well and the ones that look good at first shrink, crack and fall out. Same goes for the old shellac furniture maker's trick. I guess furniture doesn't experience the temperature, moisture and shock excursions that a stock does.

April 11, 2002, 06:18
I agree with using some of the sanding dust mixed with epoxy. Works out real well.

April 11, 2002, 08:53
With the wood dust and glue trick use very little glue and a lot of dust so that it's a doughy lump, not a runny mess. You don't want the glue getting on the surrounding wood or stain won't take to the wood. In fact, I recommend taking care of any staining before filling the void. The wood dust dough can be stained later using a small paintbrush if you decide to try to match it.


April 11, 2002, 12:08
And after you've mixed up your sawdust/glue putty, use a putty knife to squeeze it into the knot, and THEN place a piece of wax paper over the glue. The patch will be much smoother and the glue will cure more rapdly as well. (This is an old boat builders trick).

April 11, 2002, 17:56
Excellent! Thanks guys for all your helpfull tips. I'm off to the store to pickup some clear epoxy as all I have laying around is some JB weld. I should have this all stained and ready to go by Monday, as well as a couple coats of Tung oil.

Lawrence W
April 11, 2002, 22:41
They make differant shades of wood putties.
I have good luck with ratty surplus stocks
by just packing the wound full. Mound it over
and then sand it down level. Its hard to make
it invisible but it will be smooth. The area
is not structeral anyway.