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mwolfe82
April 09, 2002, 23:19
I have been mulling the different finish choices out there and was wondering what types are most popular and durable. I have already blued one FAL because it just looked so good with the stock I made for it and could bare the idea of such nice wood constrasting with parkerized finish. I have the setup to parkerize the parts but don't know if I want to. Has anyone used the moly teflon paint sold by Brownells? It seems like it would hold up well and protect moving good. How about powder coating I saw some firearms are now using this kind of system. I have the equipment for powdercoating and think it should hold up well but don't know. Just let me know what you think, any ideas would be apprecitated.

Scott S
April 10, 2002, 09:40
Michael,

I've used the Brownell's teflon/moly bake-on finish and had great results. I've already written a couple reviews of my results. Do a search in the gunsmithing/do-it-yourself forum on my member number, 355, and/or the term "moly" or "finish".

If you can, please post pics of your blued FAL. I'd like to see it, and I bet others here would like to see it, too.

chucku
April 10, 2002, 19:22
Ive gunkoted my ak and other parts with good results. Ive heard that it is better to use a mollycoating on top of park. If you get a scratch through the molly you still have park underneath. This looks alot better than bare metal. :)

blackbird
April 10, 2002, 22:00
Michael,

The absolute best I have found in heavy zinc parkerize with GunKote over it. The finish reminds me of Beretta 92 slides. It is a lot of work but worth it for special guns.

Another favorite of mine is Pilkington's American Rust blue. This requires that you boil the parts in water between applications. It is a slow rust blue process. After 4-5 days you have a super-durable blue that you can see to China in! The depth is unbelievable. I haven't done a FAL this way because of the hardness transitions (like the lower receiver) are likely to cause color variations. I all cases I start with 120 grit aluminum oxide in a blast cabinet. Do not beadblast before the molly's or they'll peel off too easy. They need the "scratches" of a real abrasive to grab.

Brownell's teflon/moly is thicker than GunKote and will hide some surface imperfections. It is MUCH stinkier to apply and bake than GunKote, though. I've used it to refinish banged up Calicos that had lots of small scratches and gouges in the aluminum to hide them. It looks like the HK rifle factory finish to me. Kinda "plasticky".

Latest FAL (a G-1) I just parked (heavy zinc) because I wanted a gray military look.

[ April 10, 2002: Message edited by: blackbird ]

mwolfe82
April 10, 2002, 22:26
Blackbird, I used the Pikington's American rust blue on the one I have now, it complements the walnut stock nicely. Made the stock my self, saw the pic of the one you did and really like the pistol grip so think I will change mine to they style you used. I almost reminds me of one of the prewar mausers with the rust blue and walnut stocks. I don't shoot this one much because it looks so dam pretty and really makes an impression at the range, will have to get someone to scan a pic of it for me.

On the next G-1 I have to build I want to make it into a carbine, and get the most durable finish I can. I might park it and go over it with molycoat. I have to see. Does anyone have any opinions on powder coating? I do to alot of my car stuff and just about whatever else I can get my hands on. The stuff holds up great, I was thinking do the exterior surfaces with powdercoat and the interior with some kind of park/moly combination. And with the powder coating I have a wide range of colors, though like to stay with subdued colors like black, grey, and od. I could make it bright yellow for all intensive purposes, but think flat black might be at better choice.

blackbird
April 11, 2002, 04:03
Michael, I tried professionally applied powder coat on a shotgun. Maybe it's just me but I hated it. Too thick, too "rubbery". Had to sand/scrape it off all operating areas as it was too thick to allow operation. There was an article about it in last month's issue of the American Gunsmith publication of the AGA. The example he showed reinforced my feelings about powder coat on firearms. Yech!!!!

nanshadao
April 11, 2002, 05:36
I have refinished two in the last year using Norrell's molycoat. This is the stuff that the US SOGs are using on their weapons. It is rated for 1000 hrs of Saltwater submersion and you can do it with a spray gun and an oven. Finished product looks great and is highly durable.

Burt Gummer
April 11, 2002, 22:58
Originally posted by nanshadao:
<STRONG>I have refinished two in the last year using Norrell's molycoat. This is the stuff that the US SOGs are using on their weapons. It is rated for 1000 hrs of Saltwater submersion and you can do it with a spray gun and an oven. Finished product looks great and is highly durable.</STRONG>

Link/source please?

:)

Kilowatter
April 12, 2002, 05:28
Originally posted by Burt Gummer:
<STRONG>

Link/source please?

:)</STRONG>
http://www.bedford.net/users/djv/norrell-moly.txt

nanshadao
April 12, 2002, 05:50
Sorry to forget to cite the source.

MOLY RESIN
Professional Firearm Finishes
Exclusive Product of John Norrell Arms, Inc./Norrell Manufacturing
13529 Saddle Hill Dr.
Little Rock, AR 72212
Fax 501-225-7864 / E-Mail > SMG1022@aol.com

A small bottle of this stuff will go a very long way. I bought the 8 oz or pint (can't remember at the moment) and have done two complete rifles and some odd parts for another. Still have half of the bottle left.