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darxtar
October 17, 2006, 21:52
Good day Gentlemen, welcome to my newest problem

After finally (special thanks to W.E.G.) getting the extractor out of my bolt so that I could headspace, it came time to ... headspace. Here's what hapenned. Using Forster guages, it would close on GO, but not on NO-GO or FIELD or a normal round of .308. I popped the locking shoulder and it measured out at a whopping .280. I replaced it with the only other one I had which measured a respectable .263, and now it will close on GO, NO-GO, FIELD, a norrmal round of .308, and probably 30-06, .50 BMG and maybe 20mm. I can't justify getting a set of guages as this will be my once in a lifetime fal build. Would it be a good idea (this is where you guys come in) to file down, SLOWLY, the .280 locking shoulder till it headspaced correctly, then buy a locking shoulder of that size, or what??? What I basicly have is a compete Indy and a complete Izzy minus the upper receiver. I know what the general public thinks if Indys however, if I were'nt in posseion of one I wouldn't beleive it myself but the barrel is mint. My 700 Remy should look so nice (ya, I know... it's probably bent). I am open to suggestions. Thanks

W.E.G.
October 17, 2006, 22:02
To get a ballpark idea of what is the right size locking shoulder, you could just use the shank of a 1/4" drill bit, and wrap it with successive layers of tape until it gets to the thickness that will allow the bolt to close on whatever headspace gage you want it to close on.

I assume you do at least have a dial caliper to measure the tape-covered drill bit shank?

Once you get to about the right size on the drill bit and tape, you could probably just buy $15 worth of real pin gages in .002 increment spacings to determine the correct size the "right" way.

shootist87122
October 17, 2006, 22:15
Originally posted by darxtar
Good day Gentlemen, welcome to my newest problem

..... Here's what hapenned. Using Forster guages, it would close on GO, but not on NO-GO or FIELD or a normal round of .308.


Did you write that correctly? I would close on a GO but not a .308? Was the .308 round a factory fresh live round? Were you forcing it to close on the GO?

IF Yes to all the above it should be good to go by just filing it down about .002".

darxtar
October 18, 2006, 21:07
IF Yes to all the above it should be good to go by just filing it down about .002".

Actually it is yes to the above, however the round of .308 I used was one of my full length sized reloads( I haven't spent $10.00 on factory ammo in the last 20 years). Is it a good idea to file these puppies??

shootist87122
October 18, 2006, 21:10
Slowly lay the file on the floor and back away....

darxtar
October 18, 2006, 21:22
Slowly lay the file on the floor and back away....

Je ne comprend pas!

darxtar
October 18, 2006, 21:25
Slowly lay the file on the floor and back away....

No, I'm not a frog, but my wife is. Sorry for being a dickhead. I don't understand what you mean

Indycar
October 18, 2006, 22:08
I hope you cleaned the chamber?

shootist87122
October 18, 2006, 23:02
You need to eliminate the unknown variable (your reloads) before breaking out the file. If it will already close on the GO (not forced, but with light to no pressure) it should close on a correctly sized round with the same or less pressure. Your reloads are the first suspect, but that cannot be proven untill you try something that is known to be correct.

Locate some NATO spec ammo to use or failing that, buy or borrow some factory fresh Federal Match .308 rounts to try. You should have the extractor removed and the bolt in the carrier for checking. If using live rounds to test HS, remove the fring pin (duh). BTW, it does not hurt to take a few thou off the face of the locking shoulder if that is what is really needed.

My SWAG is your sizer die is set for reloading ammo that has only been fired is a specific rifle. Screw that puppy down a quarter+ turn past where it makes solid contact with the ram and load a few dummies and see if that makes any difference. However, even if it works that way you still won't know for sure if the rifle is headspaced correctly. (It's taken for granted that you also trim your brass.)

MAINER
October 19, 2006, 20:52
Shootist has pointed you in the right direction. With two Fals, I had one batch of reloads over spec. They even check OK in Wilson case gage so can't use that as referance. On my dies (RCBS) I have to bump the shellholder hard to chamber in Fal.

rwwje
October 24, 2006, 08:13
Originally posted by darxtar
.......................................it would close on GO, but not on NO-GO or FIELD or a normal round of .308. I popped the locking shoulder and it measured out at a whopping .280...............

And, the problem is............? Assuming you did everything correctly, put the the 0.280" locking shoulder back in and quit using any "normal round of .308" as a gauge. That's why we use gauges as gauges instead a piece of uncontrolled brass. You had it right the first time, except for the "normal round of .308" thing. :rolleyes:

To determine actual headspace (after putting back the correct 0.280" LS - damn, never heard of a LS that large - the normal shank diameter is only 0.297"), insert the Go Gauge (1.630") with a small piece of of correct range (green) Plastigage on the base (primer end) of the gauge, push the bolt closed, open and measure the Plastigage, and add it to 1.630" (should come out between 1.631" to 1.633") since you don't close on 1.634" NO GO gauge.