View Full Version : AK Trigger-Safety lesson learned UPDATE

September 30, 2006, 07:55
Many of you likely already know this. Some may even think, "Okaaaayyyy, so what's your point ? "

I finally got an AK together on a VBD flat. One of those thick, bend it without a jig, weld up the seams things. Dang ! What a lot of work. Anyway, It is together. Have not put a live round in it yet. Got to make me some action proving dummies. As I assembled the FCG, I made a boo boo or two, no big. Got it assembled correctly and the trigger won't work. Found it to be hitting the front of the receiver where it pivots. Relieved same. Seemed to work fine.

Got the rest of the thing all together, action is still a bit stiff, but it is improving via my much debated among private circles method. (not gonna tell it here as it will start a fight. Works for me and there are a few examples out there)

Well, I got all impatient this morning and went outside with a few live rounds to try the feed and eject. I had a moment's pause.

"Better check the safety ONE MORE TIME"

Racked the action.

Selector on safe.

Pull trigger. NADA. VERY slight rearward travel, maybe a couple four thou'.

Move selector to fire.

CLACK (hammer fell)

Oh SH*!


Same same.

Back to the shop.

Long story short, when all the springs and thingies are in place, the front of the trigger very slightly contacts the receiver when pulled rearward. Just enough to keep the spring between the trigger and disconnector from returning the trigger fully. There is just enough contact in there when the selector is then operated to release the hammer. When the trigger-disconnector assembly is simply pinned into the receiver without the rest of the stuff, there is no contact between the trigger and receiver.

I had to post this, because I almost had an ND this morning. NOT an "AD". In my opinion it would have been negligent on my part to have made that wep hot without exhausting all effort to ensure it functions as it is supposed to.

Hope this ends up with the same safe result should anyone read this and avert a similar potential accident.

September 30, 2006, 10:24
Thanks for the post, Jerry...

Just demonstrates once again the importance of listening to that little nagging voice (and, no, I'm not talking about wives and/or husbands, here :))...

Check, check and recheck...

All's well that ends well...


September 30, 2006, 14:38
Hey Owl, the disconnect spring does not return the trigger home. The hooks on the hammer spring is what does that.

Did you file the slots of the front of the trigger?

I too could have had an ND last night. I was putzing around with m SAR1 at the kitchen table. I was checking the head-space, long story. I had a head-space gage in my right hand and I was trying to put it under the extractor. (didn't want to disassemble the bolt.) I was so intent on getting the gauge under the extractor that I completely lost track of where my fingers on the other hand were.
Well, one of the fingers on my left hand found the trigger and pulled it inadvertently. The hammer dropped and scared the dodo out of me. Now had I been playing with live ammo, it could have been bad! I don't think it would have gone off but ya never know.

Check, be aware, be conscious of you fingers and where they are, all 10 of them.

September 30, 2006, 16:53
My learning continues apace. I just figured out what you say about the disconnect spring. I clearances the trigger where it was binding in the receiver. When I cock the FCG, engage the safety, pull the trigger, the safety blocks the hammer from falling by way of course, of limiting the trigger movement. However,,,,there IS still that bit of movement of the trigger before it hits the safety block. Now, if you push the safety toward the "fire" position, the hammer drops. While fiddling with this, one can see that the trigger moves until it hits the block, enough so that the sear engagement is ever so close (a fine white hair) to releasing. The movement that the safety imparts to the trigger when pivoting toward "fire" releases it. Bad juju.

I also learned today, by digging through other selectors, that they are stamped to match the rifle #. I did not know this.

At present, what I believe is, the receiver whose selector holes were pre-drilled is out of spec for this particular assembly. Meaning, there is too much distance between the safety "block tab" and the trigger's "bars". (for lack of known nomenclature) Thus allowing that movement of the trigger-sear engagement before the safety stops it.

My next course of action seems to be to put some weld on the safety's "block tab" and then fit it up to prevent this movement.

I have a few other fish to fry before that, so hopefully this will attract some knowledgeable AK beaters before I light the torch.

Rest assured, this rifle is now in the category of UNSAFE.

To be continued.

October 02, 2006, 21:07
Fixed. Put some weldment on the contact surface of the safety "block". Works perfect after dressing. What was happening was that the trigger travelled too far before the trigger "rails" hit the block. The trigger's hooks were at the critical edge of the release point on the hammer. Thereby binding the two parts so as to prevent the trigger's return to rest position. When moving the selector from safe to fire, the hammer fell as this was the direction of movement it was most nearly poised for. I added and then dressed about .050" more metal. (guess, as I forgot,,,but I DID measure) Now the trigger is blocked with about the same movement I see on a rifle built by a PRO. Selector will move to fire position with normal results. (no hammer fall)

NOW we go to the range. :)