Anyone modified their Hesse brake?

[FALSTEN]

Looking for input regarding modifications of the Hesse brake to reduce/stop the dreaded "bitch slap" phenomona. I've got a few ideas; haven't tried implementing any of them as of yet. Wondering what other ideas were out there.

thanks

[Timber Wolf]

Guess you could say I fixed mine. After I got tired of getting beat to hell I took it off and drilled it out to barrel OD to within an 1/8" of the front and drove it over the barrel. Cured both the cheek slap and the naked muzzle in one fell swoop. I "fixed" my possibly non-compliant TAPCO brakes the same way. "We don't need no steenkin muzzle brakes".

[radom11]

Timber Wolf
Neat solution to the problem, what is the chance for having you do the same to a couple "spares" that will fit on my bobed Styer STG bbl

:D :)

[FALSTEN]

Agreed. I would be happier without one as well. My issue is that the rifle came with it installed and finished. If I remove it, I'm faced with refinishing the barrel in some manner. May just drill the holes out and drill out the end. I'll have to look it over a bit more.

[Timber Wolf]

Got a bud who is a machinist who does my stuff for the occasional lunch. I really want a lathe but can't buy one that cheap! Falsten, when I originally did the Hesse I could not get it all the way on, did not have it bored out large enough. It still beat the hell out of me. I heated it up almost red hot and finshed "pressing" (BFH, Big Friggin Hammer) it on. Drilling it all the way through is most likely the way to go. On all my guns the first thing I do is cut off the threads and chamfer the muzzle with Brownell's hand tools in a variable speed drill, oil and RUN REAL SLOW. Had several FALs to do and other poorly "sporterized" military bolt actions to do so the cost has amortized out pretty cheap per rifle. No threads means I do not have to worry about when or what I do to the muzzle.