Wow how tight are these barrel's!

[SAR48SA]

Putting on a new Metric barrel to a Imbel receiver or trying anyways. I have tried putting flats in smooth jaws of vise then trying to get chopped off piece of old receiver off barrel and it will not budge. Even tried removing the LH threaded FH off it and it wont give. WHAT GIVES? I certainly could heat old chopped receiver piece but I am trying to avoid HEAT. Sugestions?

[63DH8]

Use a dremmel tool to cut the receiver where the cocking handle goes. Be careful not to cut into the threads of the barrel. Once you notice a change of color in the metal, stop! Now use a large cold chisel in the slot where the cocking handle engages the bolt. Smack that chisel hard! You'll crack the receiver where you ground the receiver with the dremmel tool. Once you see the crack, you should be able to spin the receiver off with no problems.

[usmc326]

Even tried removing the LH threaded FH off it and it wont give.

You obviously didn't buy & read the Gunplumber's Workbook. Both items, and alot of other tricks are covered. Well
worth the $25, or $10 to download. Get
the video to, it's the best.
Some minimal application of heat from a propane torch will loosen up the Flash Hider, and alot of other stuck parts. They've got 30-40 yr. old grease & gunk that has solidified. If
you try to force something you'll damage it. A propane torch is the way to go. I apply a little heat, and see if that works. If not just a bit more will do it. That Flash Hider will usually spin right off with hand pressure. Same with the gas piston nut, another bear that heat will cure.
Gunplumber applies heat until that old grease is smoking, which isn't necessary. Checkout his Workbook at: www.arizonaresponsesystems.com (http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com)
Judicious use of the torch will create less heat than rapid firing.

[Deltaten]

I've been cutting the stubs at two or three places. Relief cuts go a long way in allowing the side opposite the crack to "breathe". Large cold chisel and a BFH are the ticket, just back 'em up good w/a stiff piece of hardwood or a solid lead block. Support the bbl and stub well, Ya don't want to bend anything while removing the stub :).
Lotsa Luck,
Paul

[Chief351]

Yep, that's pretty much the method that worked for me, except I didn't have a Dremel! Started out with an Armstrong-powered hacksaw, ended up using an electric Milwaukee Sawz-all!

Chisel and BFH were the same!

[SAR48SA]

Well I couldnot get on the Forum earlier this morning but success was acheived.
I used a Dremel with the small cutoff wheel and carefully slit each side as close as possible without hitting barrel. Then brought out the cold chisel and 26oz. ball peen, she split that receiver like a coconut.
Alls well that ends well. Thanks for input also.

[W.E.G.]

Here's how NOT to attempt to remove the muzzle thingy on a Chilean IMBEL barrel: http://www.l1a1.com/cgi-bin/forums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=001995

[SAR48SA]

Dood thats funny as heck!
I am generally not one to find humor in ones mistake but you win the prize!
I see its a great example of FUBAR.

[W.E.G.]

Ooooh...what does this button do!???

[SrBenelli]

We all need to chip in and buy Gary a holster for that Dremel of his! With "bullet loops" to hold his various cut-off wheels and bits. :D :D :D

[W.E.G.]

I was hoping for a guady Dremel-bit necklace like all the homies wear.

When I slam my thumb in my Garand, I can do a wicked rendition of "flashing sign."