How are you refinishing your G1 wood?

[Tony.]

So what is the consensus here? My furniture is in pretty good shape. One buttstock seems to have a heavy urethane finish and a number painted one. I am considering leaving this one alone, just cleaning it up.

The other one does not seem to have a heavy urethane finish on it. I plan to use some citrus-based stripper on it first, and in true WECSOG fashion, give it the Cascade dishwasher treatment later. Once dry I plan to give it a few coats of boiled linseed oil followed by urethane.

Here is the question, what type of urethane should I use? I have used Minwax Clear Satin Wipe-On Poly with good results, but the G1’s appear to have a heavier type of finish. Does anyone know what urethane will give the best results?

Also, what is Spar urethane? Will it work?

[fenian15]

I tried the Cascade/dishwasher thing...it really didn't do much...I've had better luck with the kitty litter/hot sun/inside the car treatment hehehe...but it's tough explaing to people why there's cat litter in your car lol.

I finally sent away to Brownell's for some whiting...you mix it with acetone, and coat the stock with the resultant paste. It pulls the oil out pretty quick..especially if you put it in the car with the windows rolled up!

As for the finish, it's really up to you...my stock has no finish of any kind by the looks of it, so I don't know that there is any one "original" finish to try and reproduce. I'd just go ahead and use the Minwax. Pro Custom Oil from Brownell's works too...it's a form of Poly.

Let us know how it turns out!

[Derby FALs]

Laquer Thinner works real well. Let it soak for a week and you'll be amazed. There is some cheap kind that is about $20 for a 5 Gal. can

[W.E.G.]

I didn't think it was recommended to apply urethane over oil?

Moreover, I wouldn't do the dishwasher/boil/bake/cat-poo thing on it unless the stock is so soaked in oil and psychedelic African paint that it is useless for anything other than a wheel chock.

Hard to beat light sanding and tung oil for a stock that arrives in relatively serviceable condition. If you ding an oiled stock you can steam and/or sand the afflicted area, and reapply oil just to the afflicted area, without having to re-coat the whole stock.

[law4fun]

Mine has some neat rack numbers on the buttstock...just a good cleaning and some BLO and thats it...
It is not a new rifle and I want to keep some character about it. Hell, I may not even refinish the metal if I can figure out how to make the Williams receiver look the part. This old warhorse is gonna be sweet!!! :D :D :D

[Tony.]

Too late! Before reading all the posts, I went gung ho and stripped the wood with Citri Strip, then gave it the dishwasher Cascade treatment. The wood came out clean and perfect! Tonight it is time to wet sand with bolied linseed oil.

[woodie]

Hey, slow down alittle bit and let that wood dry out for a while. Give it about a week then sand and oil it.

[Alaska Aviator]

Originally posted by DontTouchMyGuns:
<STRONG>Too late! Before reading all the posts, I went gung ho and stripped the wood with Citri Strip, then gave it the dishwasher Cascade treatment. The wood came out clean and perfect! Tonight it is time to wet sand with bolied linseed oil.</STRONG>

You'll have much better luck with Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil. It has a linseed oil base but it hardens much faster. Do as many coats as you can and buff with steel wool between each coat. Stuff wears like iron. I also see you were planning to put urethane over the oil - I would'nt recommend that - besides, you won't need it with True-oil, just as tough as urethane but easier to touch up. IMHO - HTH

:D
AA

[ August 22, 2001: Message edited by: Alaska Aviator ]

[alan a]

Not sure why you want to use linseed oil. Most use it on older stocks only for historical accuracy, not function. Tung or even lemon oil are vastly superior in all respects.

If you are determined to use linseed, at least use Major Culver's linseed/beeswax concoction (find it through www.jouster.com). (http://www.jouster.com).) It really does produce a pretty and usuable finish on the wood.

If you want a polyurethane, use Varathane in a flat finish with only one thin coat, with NO oil applied underneath. Problem with polyurethane is making spot fixes if you ding or scratch it. Also requires a lot of progressive sanding if you want it to look like there is no finish - which CAN be done but requires patience and a soft hand at applying the finish.