Selector switch pin coming loose?

[Kyrottimus]

This is a new one on me...

Took my most recent FAL to the range again this weekend, blasted a bunch with it. Had fun. You know the drill.

Anyway, I came home and began my routine of cleaning. When I noticed, upon closer inspection, that my selector switch had a little pin hanging out of the flat side bottom of it (while in safe position), near the thumb knob.

This was a first I even realized there was a pin in the selector switch. I always figured it was a single piece of steel. At any rate, I pushed it in as far as I could with my finger, which left about 1/4 of the pin's length remaining exposed.

I then took it upon myself to get a hammer and a punch, and ever-so-gently tapped it in until both sides of the pin were flush with the flat/paralell "walls" of the selector. It went in without much effort.



I guess my question is... Is this a normal occurance? Is this a bad sign? Do I need to replace my selector switch? Is the way I "corrected" this the right way to do it? Would I be better off lock-titing it in there?

I assume that the pin has a function and I should not lock-tite it. If I had to guess, I'd say it somehow keeps the selector on its normal plane of movement.

Whatever the case may be, I'm curious about this new minor issue and wondered all day at work today how to correct it.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance,

--Kyro

[lew]

That pin holds in the detent and the spring behind it. I'd stake the selector around the pin and see if that works.

If it doesn't work, new selectors are cheap.

[Rich@CGW]

The pin holds the selector detent ball and spring in. (underside that rides against the lower) It's not supposed to work loose.

Lew's fix is a common sight on surplus selectors. Clean hole and locktite the pin, will probably do just fine for a fix as well.

[Bwana John]

"Smoosh" both ends of the pin tight into the hole with a punch.

Or

Replace it with a roll pin.

[gunnut1]

Be careful if you use an adhesive. Don't let it run back in to the detent chamber or you will glue the spring and detent in place. I would use gap filling super glue. It is thick and will not run. And when it dries, you can sand it. Peening will work also.

[Kyrottimus]

This is a dumb question, but after about an hour of searching I couldn't find one working link that shows how to remove/re-insert the selector switch. I need to do this to work on pinning the holes smaller to keep the pin in there.

Could someone please tell me how to take the selector switch out?

--Kyro

:mad:

[tac-40]

Open and separate the upper and lower receivers. Rotate the safety counter clockwise (push it up) until it is vertical. Pull the selector out of the receiver. Installation is the reverse of this.

Once the selector is removed, the rest of the internals (HTS and their retaining pins) can also be removed, so be careful.

[Kyrottimus]

Originally posted by tac-40
Open and separate the upper and lower receivers. Rotate the safety counter clockwise (push it up) until it is vertical. Pull the selector out of the receiver. Installation is the reverse of this.

Once the selector is removed, the rest of the internals (HTS and their retaining pins) can also be removed, so be careful.

Thank you so much. I no longer have this clouded frustration where there was once a lack of knowledge. Ask me about AK's, I know 'em up and down, but FAL's I'm still learning my way around.

--Kyro

[Kyrottimus]

Originally posted by tac-40
Open and separate the upper and lower receivers. Rotate the safety counter clockwise (push it up) until it is vertical. Pull the selector out of the receiver. Installation is the reverse of this.

Once the selector is removed, the rest of the internals (HTS and their retaining pins) can also be removed, so be careful.

NOTE OF LESSON I JUST LEARNED THE HARD WAY!!!

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE SELECTOR SWITCH UNLESS THE HAMMER IS LOCKED BACK FIRST!!!

IF THE HAMMER IS FORWARD THINGS WILL MESS UP ROYALLY!!!

:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: