View Full Version : Barrel hand indexed to 11:30, options?
December 18, 2000, 18:47
Hi, first post and building first FAL. Itís a SA kit and imbel receiver, barrel hand indexed to 10:00 filed barrel shoulder, hand indexed to about 11:30, dam to far, put together any way. What are my options?
1. Headspace, shootit and see if barrel comes lose.
2. Take barrel off and red locktight it, if I do this will I be able to ever get to barrel off it the future?
3. Take barrel off and peen it with a hammer.
4. Any other options.
December 18, 2000, 19:08
Has the breech face contacted the receiver?
If not, file again and I don't think I have to tell you CAREFULLY with a light touch.
If the breech face has contacted the reciever you will have to have some material removed from the receiver.
[This message has been edited by gman (edited December 18, 2000).]
December 18, 2000, 19:48
He's saying that he already has taken too much off the barrelvshoulder, are you suggesting that he take another 348 ^o's ?
The right way to do it (per Gunplumber) at a minimum is to peen the barrel shoulder forward (back) to replace the removed material.
Having said that, if it were mine I would CONSIDER Red- Loctiting it( it will burn/ break with a torch), but only after confabbing with RKI's here.
Peace on earth,
December 18, 2000, 20:02
Rereading my post I can see that my explanation of my problem is not very clear.
I indexed the barrel to 11:30 by hand, then easily turned it to TDC which the wrench. I have all ready filed too much from the barrel shoulder. My concern is that it shood have required 100 f/p to turn the barrel, but in my case only it only required about 20 f/p to get it timed, I am afraid that because the barrel is not as tight as it should be that it will come loose during use. I am looking for the best way to fix the problem. And also asking if any one out there has used a FAL with a Barrel that was not torced as tight as it shoud have been it see if I can use it as is.
December 18, 2000, 20:15
The GP says to preen the shoulders like DF said. It bulges the edges out to make it a tight fit. I put one together just like yours. I tried to remove the barrel after screwing it in and like to never got it off. I reassembled using the red locktite, so far its OK. You can use a propane torch to heat locktitie and it will remove. HTH
December 18, 2000, 21:46
I have the picture now.
If you don't want to peen it you can go to a heavy equipment repair supply or a good auto supply house and get thin stainless steel shim stock. Then again if the barrel is only moving 0.000174 per degree and you only have to move it out 10 degrees peening would be easier but the shim cleaner.
I used to be a heavy equipment/compressor mechanic and while peening would work sure the shim would be better. Up to you, this is what I would do though.
December 19, 2000, 00:07
Hell, I'd go with option number 1 and never look back.
It's just a stinkin' R1 parts gun. Make it an experiment!
You can always go back and hit it with a hammer and throw glue on it later.
December 19, 2000, 02:08
Been there, done that. Peen the shoulder of the barrel. It works quite well, and don't be afraid to smack it good and hard if neccessary. Peen all the way around gently first, then check index, peen again, etc. Use red Loktite on final assembly, just to be sure. Removal is easy, just heat with a torch. RT
December 19, 2000, 18:22
Thanks for the advice guys; I am using this kit as a learning exercise before building up a nice STG kit. I like the shim idea, and found some .002 shim stock at work today. Sounds like both locktite and peening would work fine, but I wont to give my home made receiver vice a good test run, so I will give a shim washer a try.
December 19, 2000, 20:13
I hear ya' 3Gun, that does sound like a nice clean solution.
The commonwealths' are done that way I believe.
p.s.-keep us "posted"
December 20, 2000, 23:01
I've used the homemade shim method on a couple that indexed up too far. I got the stainless shim stock on a roll at the local machinery supply house in .004" & .006" thickness. I used a sharp new utility knife to cut the center hole to slip snugly over the barrel shank. Scissors to cut the OD. Calculations on setback per degree are correct. After you cut the shim, you might have to take a little more off the barrel shoulder depending on initial error & shim thickness. Once installed to your satisfaction, use the utility knife to trim any visible shim protruding beyond the shoulder if it matters to you & no one will ever be able to tell.
September 08, 2001, 23:07
So 3Gun, tell us what you decided, and how it worked.
September 09, 2001, 00:46
When you guys are talking about peening the shoulder with a hammer, exactly where are you talking about hitting the barrel?
September 09, 2001, 01:05
Hey Zoom Wilson, there talking about the barrel shoulder or face of the barrel that goes against the receiver,by peening it are raising the metal on the face it takes less rotation to make the barrel time at TDC.
September 10, 2001, 10:00
Wow this was my first post, made about nine months ago. I have put together six FAL's from the time I built that old R1.
It is very easy to remove too much metal from the barrel shoulder when using a lathe, but I have been careful not to repeat that mistake. I ended up using the shim method to fix it. Still the barrel torque required was less then for barrels I have installed with out a shim. I should have used a thicker shim. I did not use locktite as the barrel was worn and lightly pitted and I thought there was a good chance that I would be replacing it.
Well it's been about 800 or so rounds and the barrel has not come loose. Functions fine. I have no problem hitting a paper plate at 200 meters or the steel gong at 300. So I am no longer planing on replacing the barrel. The hardest part was cutting the hole in the center of the shim stock, it needs to be a close fit to the barrel, but the outside can be left over size and trimmed after the barrel is installed. I would have no problem using this method again.
[ September 10, 2001: Message edited by: 3GUN ]
September 10, 2001, 10:09
Originally posted by 3GUN:
<STRONG>...the barrel was torched less then barrels I have installed with out a shim...</STRONG>
Do you mean "torqued?"
October 25, 2001, 07:52
Was digging through the archives when I came upon this topic. Many of you already know this, but Williams (the aluminum receiver company) sells .003 barrel washers. They come in packs of 3 and sell for $8.50. Also,... to remove small amounts of metal from the shoulder of your barrel, punch a 1 inch hole through a sanding disc. (150-180 grit) Slip it over the threaded shank of the barrel with the abrasive side facing the shoulder of the barrel. screw the barrel onto the receiver with the sanding disc in place just tightly enough so that you can feel pressure on the disc but it can be rotated back and forth. Then,.. rotate it back and forth to sand material off of the face of the barrel shoulder. Read this on Gunplummers page, I think. Ingenious! Beats the heck out of putting a barrel in a lathe,.. indicating it in,.. touching off on the shoulder,.. cutting off too much and starting over again,.. ect. Old news to many,.. but worth repeating to my fellow newbies.
October 25, 2001, 10:26
Thanks Gary, for resurecting this thread, and thanks Templator, for the info about Williams and for the ring/sanding technique!
October 26, 2001, 22:37
Peen that bastard, that's what the other end of the dremel is for!
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