PDA

View Full Version : Removeing old park with muriatic acid?


AKASL
April 07, 2002, 15:37
Has anyone ever used muriatic acid to remove old parkerizing?? :confused:

Bullet
April 07, 2002, 18:20
No but a couple of weeks ago I went to park a cocking handle and mistakenly used a muratic acid solution with water in the hot tank. I have everthing bottled up for storage and grabed the wrong jug. I was looking at and said, "Damm that think is pickling like crazy". Then I realized I wasn't using the parkerizing solution. I didn't destroy anything, but it sure etched the metal like crazy.

usmc326
April 08, 2002, 04:58
You probably could, but it would be a pain. Precautions, toxic fumes, clean up, disposal,etc. The fumes will knock you on your *ss, it can eat through your clothes, and any other metal in proximity will be discolored/effected.
I know,from my early amateur smithing.

If you haven't got access to a blaster
or someone locally, I'd recommend instead that you use a coarse wire wheel on a buffer, or in an electric drill...even sandpaper if need be.

[ April 08, 2002: Message edited by: usmc326 ]

medicmike
April 08, 2002, 09:47
I have used it with success to remove bluing, it dosn't seem to do much to remove parkerizing. Used a weak solution about 9 parts water to one part acid. Makes blasting blued parts much easier.

Sophicles
April 08, 2002, 14:43
Muratic acid is not effective for removing parkerized finishes. However it does very well as a pre-dip before going into the park bath. Thanks to Derby Fals and Dan@VOW for the tip.

AKASL
April 08, 2002, 19:04
Thanks for the information gentlemen. I will store this in the memory banks for future use.

'clees
April 09, 2002, 04:16
I used it to remove park from small internal parts that I didn't want to blast. I used a strong concentration (50/50) and then followed with a brass wire brush. It discolored the metal slightly (some of it from the brass brush), but parked really nice. Like posted above, the fumes were real strong, so wear the proper protection(especially goggles!!) and use outdoors.

PCSinc
April 09, 2002, 19:16
Acid plus metal = hydogen gas! (IIRC)

bglanville
April 09, 2002, 19:21
Have you tried Naval Jelly? I know it takes blueing off like nobodys business.

HTH

Regards,

Bruce G.

mwolfe82
April 09, 2002, 21:59
The stuff in navel jelly is phosphoric acid, use it alot on car frames and stuff. The stuff is good because it eats away some of the rust and then changes the chemical composition of the rest it comes into contact with. You can even paint over the stuff but don't know if it would work well for park or bluing. Might try paint and prep from the hardware store if you are looking for this stuff or better yet get full strengh and dilute to where you want.

gunplumber
April 10, 2002, 11:21
bluing is a base an acid will "neutralize " it. Park is an acid, adding another acid is unlikely to have much effect. If you need a 50% concentration, I think you are attacking the metal.

sledgehammer
April 10, 2002, 23:52
I have used it with some success. It doesn't remove the park like it does bluing, but it seems to soften it to the point that it makes it much easier to bead blast. I use a 50/50 solution, but only leave the parts in for 30 seconds to 1 minute. You can then scrub in clean water and let dry. You will notice a rusty film start to form as the parts dry, but this will blast away much easier especially if it is old parking. Be sure to blast parts within a few hours or the finish will re-harden and will be more difficult to remove. Also go right into the pre-dip and park bath after blasting or the parts will develope rust from the residule acid left on the metal. I have had good success with this method.

Derby FALs
April 11, 2002, 02:00
Someone posted the other day about using vinegar to remove park on threads before soldering a brake. I haven't tried it myself.