Painting Lettering

[rob1]

I would like to paint the recessed lettering of my Entreprise reciever. I have tried this using model paint, paint it on then let dry for a few minutes, then wipe off excess. Only problem is I can't wipe off the excess without taking out the paint in the lettering too. I have tried this several times, also without letting it dry, still get the same results. I can do it and leave a little paint, then try to go back and do it again, but end up removing it all the next time. Anyone have any tricks/suggestions?

[IDHunt]

Try using a grease pencil or oil pastel crayons. You can get either at an art store. They both work great for filling in lettering.

IDHunt

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The Bill of Rights: Void Where Prohibited by Law

[Rule .308]

I use a couple of different methods. When using paint to do it I also have a second small brush with just enough CLEAN thinner in it to loosen the paint that is not where I want it. I actually have better luck wiping the excess paint off with my bare finger than a rag, the fibers pull too much paint out.
Second method employs using Brownell's lacquer sticks. These (like paint) unfortunately take a while to cure but because they are in more of a paste form they are more forgiving. On all of your small parts like the gasplug, gas regulator ring and the like you can cook them for 20-30 minutes at 300 degrees in a little toaster oven and they cure up and are very durable right now. The paint I use is a fuel proof ploy urethane found in remote control hobby stores. It's called Formula One and is marketed by Pactra. Beyond that it is a matter of patience. One of my buddies offered to by me chinese food for lunch the other day if I would do his lettering while I was re-assembling his StG after getting it parked. HA! I told him he could buy me lunch and I would loan him my stuff to do it with and watch him spend the next couple hours trying to get it just right. Ya know something? He passed on my offer. Yes, it is tedious stuff but I think it is worth the results. Happy lettering

Rule .308

[gunplumber]

good luck, while rule .308 has a great idea with solvent proof paint (I use Testors insignia white and red for fals and 1 part insignia orange to 4 parts insignia yellow for HK sight drums, then bake t rapid-set the enamel) Entre'prise receivers have such uneven depth engraving that they are the hardest of any out there to fill. Some of the engraving is so light that its more trouble then its worth. A PAC imbel takes five minutes, an entreprise an hour

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T. Mark "Gunplumber" Graham
gunplumber@arizonaresponsesystems.com
Arizona Response Systems
5501 North 7th Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85013
623-873-1410 http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com

[notime]

I got the idea to do this also, went with testors red and white paint and a sewing needle and toothpick. All I did was make a huge mess the only thing I can think of is thinning the paint down real good so that it flows easy and let the thinner evaporate out. let us know what you end up using.

[Rule .308]

Hey Gunplumber, how tough is the Testors? Does it stand up to solvent and the like after it's cured? I like the fuel proof stuff I use but I am not overly impressed with the red, doesn't quite stand out enough to suit me. I know what you mean about light stampings, some of the gear logos on my PACs are light in one corner and boy are they a bitch! And the electro pencil little hammer strikes in the importer stamp and serial number are next to impossible when they are too light.

Rule .308

[Super B]

I put on lots of Testors with a brush, enough to fully fill the letters. Let it dry for 2-3 days. Go back with a paper towel sprayed with WD40, and GENTLY wipe over the paint. The solvents in the WD 40 woll slowly remove the paint until only the paint in the numbers is left. Seal with clear nail polish.

Super B

[Bruce J]

All good ideas... Just remember to clean all the oil from the area before you paint, crayola, pastel, etc..

[gunplumber]

Testors is adequate. When damp, WD 40 will strip it. When bone dry, even paint thinner takes some scrubbing. Baked it requires alot of toothbrush scrubbing with paint thinner or laquer thinner to remove.

Problem with a solvent-proof coating is - what do you use for a solvent? So I'm sticking to testors until I find something better. Plus, I can grab a new bottle at the local 24 hour supermarket when I discover at 2 AM that its dried up and the gun needs to ship the next morning.



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T. Mark "Gunplumber" Graham
gunplumber@arizonaresponsesystems.com
Arizona Response Systems
5501 North 7th Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85013
623-873-1410 http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com

[JohnnyMac]

Hey Gunplumber, how tough is the Testors? Does it stand up to solvent and the like after it's cured? I like the fuel proof stuff I use but I am not overly impressed with the red, doesn't quite stand out enough to suit me.

I've used the Testors Red and White enamel (model paints in little bottles) to fill in the FIRE and SAFE stampings on an AR-15. To get the best effect from the red, apply it over an undercoat of white (preferably flat). When I used the red paint directly on the grey-black of the AR receiver it appeared dull. Re-done with a white undercoat, it is much better.

JMc

[rob1]

I figured a way to do this, took some diffent ideas, added some more, tried it, and it actually worked (I was a little shocked!). Now, some, if not most, of you will cringe when you hear how I did it, but it really worked. What I did was take the Testors, put it on pretty thick, trying to keep it in the recessed lettering as best I could, then let it dry over night. Then I took a razor blade (here's where the cringing comes in!), and lying it flat against the receiver, scraped the excess off, being VERY careful not to scratch the receiver.Then took fingernail polish remover (non-acetone type, although I don't know if that makes any difference), put a little on a cleaning patch, and wiped the "haze" off. Actually turned out rather nicely, didn't even scratch the receiver. I must admit, I'm planning on reparking my rifle anyway, and I know I wouldn't have been so quick to do this if not. I was happy with the results though, and will redo after I refinish.

[L1A1]

Rob1,

I would recommend using a 20 or 22 guage syringe. A buddy of mine owns an automotive detailing company and uses this method to fill fine scratches in paint and clear coat finishes. You'll have to experiment with the thinner/paint ratio.

The technique is simple. On the letters and numbers, fill the groove very slowly. Move the needle like you would using a pen or pencil. Advance the plunger with your other hand. Don't try to force the paint out. Allow it to flow as smoothly as you can. The idea is to allow the paint to do the work and fill the engraved places. I am working on an L1A1. When I can, I'll post some pictures of my project. Good luck and let me know by send me a line @ rich@shreve.net

[Farmer from Hell]

I think Baltimore has a needle exchange program so maybe they have some cheap. http://www.fnfal.com/forums/biggrin.gif

FfH

[boman]

Here's what works for me w/ Model Railroad colors(they're designed to resist oil grease etc)and you can get them @ a train shop.
Paint on w/ a small artist's brush, let dry about 1hr. Get a cue tip from wife's makeup drawer, dip in denatured alcohol and remove paint around lettering. If you do it right and use the right amount of alcohol it comes out fine. If you get it wrong just scrub all the paint off w/ the q-tip and start over till you get the technique
Steve

[RBL]

Touché, FfH.