View Full Version : Stock and Butt pad refinish?

September 12, 2001, 18:57
I did a search on FAQ and gunsmithing and got some ideas. What is the best semi-permnent way to refinish stocks bed liner or bake on? Any way to improve pad? :confused:

September 13, 2001, 21:20
I have been kinda wondering the same myself. Just haven't taken the time to start searching myself.

September 14, 2001, 00:10
I have been wondering wich would be best too. I have an Imbel that needs refinished and have thought that the bake on stuff would be good. Problem is that I don't know if the heat would make the plastic brittle, musshy, or sticky?

Any ideas out there?

September 14, 2001, 10:22
I refinished a set of R1 furniture with OD Alumahyde II from Brownells. I baked the finish using Texas sunshine, rather than the oven. I have taken it out to the range once, and it is holding up well, so far. Seems pretty durable.

The other day, I got bored and decided to buy a can of Duplicolor Truck Bed liner from Walmart and sprayed some old R1 pistol grips and a set of R1 handguards. Finish is OUTSTANDING!! Amazed at the ability to hide the faults. Crappy painted R1 pistol grips came out looking like a factory finish! Have not tested it for durability--used the Texas sunshine to bake the finish on. Only time will tell.

I would use both finishes again. Although, I would not use the bed liner on the buttstcok, unless you want your face sandpapered.

The trick to bedliner is distance sprayed to item--farther away is more gritty in texture. Closer spray is smoother and not as textured. I would suggest practicing on some old pistol grips first. Good luck. :D :D :D

September 14, 2001, 10:58
I did one in OD green Alumahyde, and it turned out a nice satin finish, very tough.

A second set was first sprayed with bedliner, allowed to cure, then topcoated with the same OD green Alumahyde. Very nice textured finish. The topcoat protects the bedlinder from solvents and oils, although I'm not sure if that hurts the bedliner anyhow.

The trick with bedliner is as follows:
1. Spray for full coverage from about 6" and let it dry. It'll be sort of satiny without much texture. This is your basecoat, and will cover the gouges pretty well.
2. Recoat from about 12-14". Keep it even, and don't go too thick. You'll get your texture with this coat. If you see a spot that needs to be hit again WAIT TILL IT'S DRY! If you don't it'll get too thick and youll lose the texture. If you spray too heavily from 12-14" it'll end up looking satiny like the basecoat. The topcoat should be sprayed from 12-14" in thin coats, allowing it to dry thoroughly between coats.
3. You'll know when it's dry because the surface won't be cool. When it's still drying it'll be cool to the touch.