View Full Version : How to repair wood stock?

September 11, 2001, 19:14
G1 wood stock (ferruled type <C?>) I got has a split at the fore. Most common point as I understand it. splits top and bottom (as opposes to left and right.) I'm wondering what options I have in terms of repairs? I was thinking maybe I could pin it somehow: drill downward 90 degrees across the plane of the cracks, fill it with epoxy, and then push a spring steel rod through it, wiping off excess epoxy....

Other options? Opinions?

Derby FALs
September 11, 2001, 20:06
Get it good and clean and epoxy it. Put some dye in the epoxy that will be about the color of the stock when you are done. Build a dam along side the crack so the epoxy will be higher than the wood. Otherwise it may sink down below the wood. File the excess off after it sets for 24 hrs. Brownell's has the dye and epoxy.

September 11, 2001, 20:19
You can get a pretty good match of the wood by sanding the stock a bit and them mixing the sawdust with acraglass. Tends to be a bit darker then the. You can then stain wood until it matches.

stand watie
September 11, 2001, 21:31
the best way i know of is to get some SLOW-SET epoxy, put some un-thickened epoxy on the crack, mix some with sawdust to the consistency of peanutbutter, slather that on to just a smiggen above the surface, wrap tightly w/a heavy rubberband (under wax paper!)and wait! then when completely cured(the next day) sand smooth-if the sawdust is the right color/wood, you won't be able to see the repair after the finish is applied.
for dixie,sw :D :D

September 11, 2001, 22:37
I have repaired two stocks with a glue called Gurellia(sp) Glue. I picked it up at Lowes and father picked his up at ACE.

This stuff is great. You wet a piece of the wood and add the glue. There is a reaction and the glue expands to 3 times its original volume. Use clamps to set it and keep it tight. After a few hours ( I let it set at least overnight) it is ready to go.

Good thing about this glue is that it can be wiped off when wet, it is sandable, and stainable.

Try some. It is worth the $6 bucks.


September 11, 2001, 23:07

I found Gorilla Glue, is that it?

Whether this is the one or not, it looks interesting.

September 12, 2001, 00:11
That is it. Drop me a line by email sometime and if close I will show you the parts that I fixed.

September 12, 2001, 03:54
Thanks guys. The suggestions sound good but the crack's just a hairline right now and I dunno if I can actually cram much of anything in it? Should I get a needle and inject? Hell. Is that possible? Certainly not with saw dust... The gap is a little less than than that of a period on this post. It extends a little past where the ferrule ends.

September 12, 2001, 12:11
Originally posted by StirFry:
... the crack's just a hairline right now and I dunno if I can actually cram much of anything in it? Should I get a needle and inject? Hell. Is that possible? ...

Yes, here's what Google came up with, straight off the top.

<A HREF = "http://www.tooltron.com/ProductPages/CraftTools/Supplies/4_pc_glue_injector_set.htm">glue injector</A>

I've done glue injection with a cracked SKS stock, and got a neat repair. Drill a hole in an area that won't be seen, at the end of the crack. Size of the hole will be the injector tip size, of course - measure that to verify. The injector I used was 1/8 inch. Depth is a judgment call. Deeper is generally better, but don't drill all the way through! :) There wouldn't be any point going deeper than the length of the injector tip. The glue will need to be fairly runny, not too thick. On the SKS I used plain old Elmer's wood glue, but I don't recommend that if you can get something better. Spread the crack very slightly with finger pressure and inject downward so gravity helps. Inject slooooowly, give it plenty of time to spread. Masking tape along the crack will help confine the glue if it needs to travel very far. Clamp it lightly, clean up excess, etc. It will show a hairline, so best to use glue that'll take stain or color.

September 13, 2001, 16:50
Heat the wood a little to get the glue to flow better.

Also you can try working the glue into the crack using a piece of an overhead projector slide, or a piece of 35mm film negative (test with your glue first to make certain the plastic material selected doesn't DISSOLVE!)

September 14, 2001, 02:07
I often repaired cracks in M1 garand stocks while in the Marine Corps honor guard in DC with Super Glue.

Simply clean out the gouge/crack and fill with super glue mixed with a bit of sawdust from the host stock.

Scrape off excess with straight razor blade (not too hard or it will chatter), then steel wool until smooth.

Once done, stain and finish. The glue will dry clear to dark and will look like part of the grain of the stock.