View Full Version : Century L1A1 sporter trigger question.
April 05, 2002, 22:05
I replaced the T/H/S in my L1A1 Sporter (the thumbhole type) with
an FSE set.
The parts fit fine. The problem is the trigger is still as crappy as ever. Long pull, and it's creaky.
Could this be due to the trigger plunger spring? Is there a fix for this?
April 05, 2002, 22:26
I own two century made L1A1 bought about 5 years ago. Both had horrible triggers. Replaced them with FSE and still had the same pull issues.
I cut the spring about 2 coils that's behind the trigger. Experiement. cut 1 coil and then 2 coil.
Ever since I have done that to mine, the trigger pull is nice and easy. Still creepy.
April 05, 2002, 22:46
Trigger pull advice: http://www.fnfal.com/forums/Forum3/HTML/001500.html
April 06, 2002, 01:48
polish things up like in the link that Jeter posted for you. I wouldnt go cutting any springs at all. Polishing makes the pull feel very noticably better.
April 07, 2002, 04:47
My FALO parts set had modifications to it's trigger spring and the trigger spring plunger (as well as other trigger parts) that seemed to improve the trigger pull.
The trigger spring had ONE coil removed, and the shape of the end of the trigger spring plunger was filed to a rounded cone
There's another difference i noticed as well that gave the trigger pull on the FALO a much better feel than on my STG parts kit, but it's not for the faint of heart. You can check my website for more if you're interested.
April 08, 2002, 05:55
Are you still using the thumbhole stock that came with the rifle? Many of these had very heavy non-military trigger return springs.
Or are you using a replacement lower from a Brit or Aussie parts kit?
April 09, 2002, 09:20
First, polish everything that moves against anything else. Don't cut coils off springs or file different angles on anything. If you want to experiment with a spring, turn down the outside of it by tightly putting it around a rod and chuck it in your drill. Spinning it against a light file or flatly mounted emory paper will take material off and weaken it. Remember, both springs work together. Be careful, go slowly. You can get a pretty acceptable trigger if done correctly.
April 09, 2002, 15:44
i had a century gun built in '92 (i was it's first owner after its rebirth )had a 20 pound trigger pull. using an ultra fine jewler's file and honing stones, i got it down to around 10-12 pounds there is probably the most(deepest) sear engagement on this hammer/sear i have ever seen on any metric hammer/sear. the trigger parts on the century thumbhole sporter were commonwealth. the belgian and austrian and imbel triggers had much less sear engagement depth. the point is the century setup never doubled or failed to reset or malfunctioned in any way. and the sear spring was at least twice the power of the metric examples. over the years, that commonwealth setup seems to have gotten lighter. whereas some of my metric hammer sear combinations would fail to reset or double,or both, or one of each , until the engagement surface (depth of hammer notch)was increased to approximately the dimensions on the commonwealth parts.AND the sear spring replaced with a much stronger spring. so after you have a few trigger setups screw up badly and malfunction, you wil love love love that heavy trigger on the century gun. because you can trust it. in time i may trust my trigger work on the metrics. but i dont trust them yet and they are now about 6-7 pounds on the average.
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