View Full Version : Trouble removing finish on R1
September 10, 2001, 21:42
Have a South African fal that looks like a paint job on the barell; some there, some missing. Was trying to remove remaining "paint" without much luck. Have even used Muriatic acid, which usually cuts about anything and won't touch it. Next strp is to find a glass beader/shot peener machine and try that. Anyone worked on this problem before and have a different solution.
September 10, 2001, 21:48
Get the sandblaster out and blast the crap out of it....will take it down to the bare metal and will be ready to paint or park, your choice.
I bought a bag of blasting media at the local lumber yard for $4 or $5...enough to do LOTS of FAL parts.
BTW where in OK are you?
September 10, 2001, 22:10
Thanks, that's what I thought. Just wanted to check and see if anyone had found something by accident that cut this coating. Hang out in north central Oklahoma. Grant county still in the burn ban, but fields are wet, go figure. Small town, 8 man football type school. Wouldn't live anywhere else. Visiting wife's family in T-town is all the big city life I care to experience. Are we far apart?
September 10, 2001, 22:17
Craig County (Vinita)
We are gonna try to get the OK bunch together in late October/early November, hopefully before the weather turns crappy.
I'll give you a shout.
September 10, 2001, 22:32
You just came face-to-face with BULLETPROOF.
Nothing chemical can touch BULLETPROOF.
I drowned an R1 receiver with EZ-OFF heavy duty oven cleaner, and let it sit overnight. BULLETPROOF just laughed at it.
September 10, 2001, 22:33
Sounds like a hoot. Do the email thing. Sometimes I don't get on here for longer stretches and may miss a post announcing it on here.
P.S. - that's around Tulsa Gun Show time too
September 10, 2001, 22:37
Originally posted by gary.jeter:
<STRONG>You just came face-to-face with BULLETPROOF.
Nothing chemical can touch BULLETPROOF.
I drowned an R1 receiver with EZ-OFF heavy duty oven cleaner, and let it sit overnight. BULLETPROOF just laughed at it.</STRONG>
BWWWWHAHAHAHA!!!!! My trusty Home Depot Sand Blaster will get the last laugh!! (maybe...) Otherwise, I will be looking like the Coyote while he is waiting for the cannon ball to fall ontop of his head.
September 10, 2001, 23:00
Otherwise, I will be looking like the Coyote while he is waiting for the cannon ball to fall ontop of his head.
Given the history of this group, I think you need to put on your helmet.
If this "bulletproof" finish is so great, why are you guys replacing it? It seems like the discussion should be on how to touch it up or replace it. After some of the posts here, I'm trying to figure-out what it is so I can paint my van with it.
September 10, 2001, 23:06
Being from South Africa, I can let you guys in on the secret coating they used. Mixture of cyanide, powdered industrial diamonds, some palladium, manganese, ground up rhinoceros horn, mixed with waste water from the gold mines and of course some Thabazimbi mud. :)
September 10, 2001, 23:24
hagar, how much is that a gallon? Also, do I apply it w/ an air brush, blow torch, or an explosive? :)
Finally, does ACME sell it?z
September 10, 2001, 23:46
I used Citristrip, available at Walmart. It's a slow-working, citrus acid based stripper that's non-toxic and designed to be used indoors. It's orange, has a pleasant orange scent, and it took all the green paint off the lower of my R1. I left it on the parts and wood buttstock for several hours before scraping the softened paint off. To remove all the paint, it required three treatments. Dave.
September 10, 2001, 23:49
That's a good question, exactly what in heck IS that camo paint made of?
Father lives in Ponca City by the way, miss the place... :p
September 11, 2001, 07:58
The finish is probably epoxy paint. Acid won't affect it. Blasting is about the only way to remove it, and it's slow going at that!. We've seen a lot of it on both rifles and mags. (Jim M in Tulsa)
September 11, 2001, 11:18
You have a point about preserving what's left if it is so good, but large areas appear to be flaked of which would indicate that the rest might also be removable. After removing flaked paints on other items and repainting, find out that flaking was occuring underneath and unseen and came off later too. In light of all that is happening, may just shoot it like it is. The shit is hitting the fan as we speak.
September 11, 2001, 12:12
break out the rubber gloves, and use a chemical paint stripper first before you blast it, it will save you alotta time in the sand blaster.
or send it to JimM next time your in tulsa and have him repark it, he does a great job and gives us local guys a break.
September 11, 2001, 19:52
Chemicals DO NOT work on BULLETPROOF.
OK, maybe if you immersed it in Nitric Acid. But the metal would go before the BULLETPROOF gave up.
September 11, 2001, 21:42
i've had good luck with plain old Red Devil LYE!
add to water (not water to lye!),heat to near boiling, lower parts into the stuff and rinse with water and VINEGAR!
but be careful, LYE is HIGHLY dangerous to your tender bod-----> i've stripped several TONS of wooden furniture AND metal with it though and it is CHEAP & works!
it also does a great job of removing old glue from wood.
for dixie,sw :D :D :D
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