View Full Version : G1 Brake/Fake FH - to solder or not to solder, that is the question...

April 04, 2002, 08:09
So, what is the consensus. Do we need to silver braze these (bling pinning looks pretty difficult given the twist lock design).

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Jayson at IGF
April 04, 2002, 10:33
The definition of an Assault Weapon says threaded barrel. The G1 barrels are ok as is since they only have the lug.

Same thing with the MP5 barrels. They have three lugs and are legal on a post ban weapon.

April 04, 2002, 13:52
Threaded or not, I thought the rule stated that any muzzle brake had to be permanently attached with 1100 deg solder? That would be no different here in that you "could" exchange the mb for a f/h with little effort. My computer is slow so I'll look that up later.

Stupid law I'll admit but let's be sure we're not caught at the range with our pants down. Remember, there was a problem with the pseudo STG brakes as well before they were reengineered for compliance.

I've seen Tapco advertising Argie barrels with the lugs ground off and then threaded. Are they made differently from the G1 barrel? Can the G1's devices, pre and post ban, not be fitted? Why go through the trouble of grinding and threading, never mind being charged for it, if clip on post ban devices are legal? This may be a moot point if the Argie and G1 barrels differ in diameter. Just food for thought.

I may not have the law down but why ruin a nice STG barrel with heat when I can use a G1 barrel with less fuss. Doesn't make sense does it?

April 04, 2002, 14:54
Yeah, I'm having trouble as well figuring out if theres a definitive answer on whether heating up a barrel hot enough to melt fusion silver/flux paste onto the threads will actually damage it.

In Gunplumber's FAL video, he claims that its not likely that you can damage the barrel by heating it up long enough to attach a muzzle brake, and takes no precautions to cool down the barrel quickly after soldering it. However, the cruffler.com howto and several posts on this board clam that its potentially damaging to the barrel and you should use some sort of heat-absorbing paste and cool the barrel as quickly as possible after soldering.

What gives here? Is there any definitive answer? Would a chrome-lined barrel have more or less of a chance of being altered by an 1100 degree solder job than a non-chrome-lined barrel?

April 04, 2002, 15:07
- Chromed barrels aren't lined. They are chemically bonded tool chrome, not decorative chrome.

- I have shot maybe 100 FAL or L1A1 rifles w/ a post-ban compliant muzzle device attached by silver solder. To date, none showed ANY indication of damage, including my 6000+ round FALO-C from Hesse. If it was gonna come of or be damaged, I'd know it by now.

- You do not heat the barrel through-an-through. You are getting it hot enough to melt the SS, but you're not altering it.

- rifle and cannon barrels come of the mill red hot to the core. They stay that way for quite some time while being finished. Your SS applcation will leave the barrel red hot only for a few minutes.

April 04, 2002, 15:53
Progun, the Argie bbls that have the "lug" ground off...they are referring to the EVIL bayonet lug. This is quite different than the Flash Supressor Lug of the G1 bbl. If you worry about taking a sleeved or otherwise muzzeled thingy to the range on your G1 take it off. OR while at the range DONT TAKE it off. Either way unless you have some anal BATF agent running around your shooting AO who the hell is ever going to know? Just dont go shooting up a school yard or climb a bell tower with any flash hider thingy or just dont do anything illegle.

April 04, 2002, 15:57
EMD II, I believe you when you say the bbls come out red hot and they take some time to cool down but that is the entire length of the bbl. Not just the last 4 inches or so. For my .02 cents I would not be too keen on rapidly heating and cooling only 1 small and very important section of my bbls. I would rather take the safe and easy way of blind pinning. God willing and the ban is Sunset all that it would take would be a small drilling episode and you would have a "normal" threaded bbl again.

April 04, 2002, 18:27
Well, I'll admit to it not being ruined (maybe a bit exaggerated) but that MAPP flame was on it long enough for the solder to flow and the result was a sooted area that required a lot of scrubbing and it's still discolored.

It just seemed a waste to have to screw up a nicely threaded muzzle when a G1 barrel can be left alone. As soon as nice ones of these become available guess what I'm buying as a spare?