View Full Version : trigger return spring

September 07, 2001, 19:35
Can anyone tell me whare to purchase or the specs on a trigger return spring for a STG or L1A1? I am looking for one to reduce the trigger pull more.

September 08, 2001, 15:45
I noticed nobody has answered you. I'm sure a RKI can do better but I cut and pasted this info from a previous post some time ago. Sorry I can't supply the link............
"FAL Trigger Pull Info
Looking for info on how to reduce the trigger pull on my beloved SAR-48. It is crisp, but probably 12+ lbs. I would like to get it to the 4 - 5 lb range. I'm sure this question has come up many times in the past but I missed it, sorry. Thank you in advance.

While I haven't lightened my trigger, I significantly enhanced the pull with some dremel work. Don't be afraid, I never touched the trigger/sear contact areas.
A 7 lb pull can feel like a ton if you have to drag that 7 lb over gritty, coarse surfaces. This fix won't help every rife. Do this: dry fire your weapon, then cycle the trigger a few times. If it's gritty, this fix will help.
Chuck up the trigger return spring plunger in a dremel or drill, pinch it with some very fine emory paper while turning. Do both the skinny and fat part. Polish up the spherical tip as well.
Replace the trigger spring, putting on the tighter end first, if there is a tighter end.
Polish up the inside of the yolk of the trigger return spring/plunger bracket on the lower. I used the thin brown fine grinding disk with my dremel. Don't take off too much material or the plunger won't stay in place.
Polish the sides of the trigger where it penetrates the lower reciever. Do this by hand with some fine emory paper.
Although the actual pull weight is no lighter, I don't have to drag it over rough machine marks and parked surfaces. I touched up the parts with cold blue afterwards.

This advice comes with the usual caveats of "leave gun(trigger)smithing to a trained gunsmith" etc.
But..I have replaced the trigger return spring intentionally with another sear spring and would guess it is now in the 4-5 lb range.
Orca (I think) was selling 4# wolff springs of the proper size for exactly this purpose, though I know it was a one (or maybe two) time deal.
Gunplumber lists as replacement: Metric trigger return spring: Wolff #5-8 Heavy Duty Metric, 12.5 coils
And the sear spring as being:Metric sear spring: Wolf Light Duty Inch #4-7, 11.5 coils
..These of course are different, but as I say I switched out intentionally on one of my FALs' and have had no problem...though perhaps it will weaken in the return position.
I do believe you will find much of your "fight" is against the trigger return spring.
Careful stoning can be of different benefit, but the resistance will remain.

I had my Argie FAL trigger gone over by Arizona Response Systems. He told me he replaced the Argie spring with a Belgian spring and then stoned the works.
I haven't measured it but those who have pulled on it agree it is a great trigger for a battle rifle.

September 08, 2001, 15:53
I went looking in my personal archives and found this stuff from the old wwwboard. Nice to see the names of old friends again. (The Wolff spring trick really works, BTW.)

Posted December 15, 1999 at 22:54
First, pop out the trigger. To do this, remove the grip, then remove the trigger return plunger and spring. Polish the plunger with #600 grit sandpaper; also polish up the guide that the plunger rides in. Next, file the pivot that rides into the trigger socket to a broad point instead of a round ball, and polish with #600 grit. (I will eventually hard-chrome mine.) Replace the return spring with a Smith & Wesson auto spring; Wolff Springs has them (or you can come up with one by scrounging at shows or at a local smith house). 4#'s work for me, though I've heard from one gent that used 3.5#'s and thought it was great. Remember, if you go too light on spring weight your auto timing will be off (the trigger won’t reset fast enough). Anyway, that should solve your rough creep problem. There are of course a number of good tricks for the rest of the trigger assembly (sear etc.) but that should be left in the hands of a good gunsmith.

Posted January 03, 2000 at 20:44
(Spring replacements:)
*Metric trigger return spring: Wolff #5-8 Heavy Duty Metric, 12.5 coils
*Commonwealth trigger return spring: Wolff #5-8 Heavy Duty English, 16 coils.
*Commonwealth trigger return spring (reduced power option): Wolff #4-8 Light Duty English, 16 coils.
When cutting springs, cut one coil longer than required, then flatten both ends on a belt sander about coil on each end, which results in the correct length. Note: Argentine and Brazilian trigger return springs are substantially heavier than Austrian or Belgium varieties.

Posted January 05, 2000 at 20:46
After reading everyone's advice on Wolff springs for S&W automatics, I ordered a set of 2.5#, 3# and 3.5# springs from Brownells. (They didn't have the 4# that Orca recommended.) Got impatient and went to a local hardware store (old-timey with slide-out trays of anything you can imagine) and examined their significant collection. Selected 13/64 by 2-1/4 inches, known as a #19 or #418, depending on their vendor. I cut it to same length as original, belt sanded each end to flat surface, oiled lightly and reassembled. Result? A 4-1/2# trigger for 45 cents!

Posted March 09, 2000 at 22:20
I would steer clear of any spring that is less than 4-lbs. I ordered a mixed set of Wolff springs from Brownell's, and the 3.5-lb spring worked beautifully, but briefly, before the trigger/hammer started failing to reset. I intend to get a 4-lb spring when I have the chance.

Posted March 17, 2000 at 19:13
I took the spring from my STG down to the Ace Hardware (I can hear some of you groaning already) and looked at what similar-sized springs they had available. I got several high-grade steel springs of various weights for a couple of bucks, took them home and tried them until I found the one that worked best. Please feel free to tell me how lame this is, and how parts not made for firearms shouldn't be used in firearms, and how I probably use duct-tape and bailing wire to hold my car together, or whatever makes you feel good.

Posted March 17, 2000 at 20:56
(Here's how I reduced trigger creep.) Go to a hardware store and buy 2 washers with the ID approximately the same as the trigger plunger. Ream out the ID so they would fit over the trigger plunger (not the spring side). Grind the OD to approx .28". Now slide the two washers on the trigger plunger, forward of the stop. Place spring on the plunger, rearward of the stop. Insert plunger group into retainer and against the trigger. If the sear does not reset (trigger needs to come forward a bit more), you may need to grind one of the washers a bit thinner. If the trigger feels like it is binding (the washers are probably binding on the lower receiver), the OD needs to be a bit smaller. Took me about 15 minutes of grinding. All you need is a lighter, shorter spring.

Also... get Gunplumber's FAL assembly manual for more information on trigger work.
www.arizonaresponsesystems.com (http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com)


EDIT: Ain't this funny. We both are answering a question at the same time, in the same way by going to personal archives. My archives are older, I win! Or... you posted first, you win! Or... er... uh...

[ September 08, 2001: Message edited by: Radio ]

September 08, 2001, 16:05

September 08, 2001, 19:26
Thank You all
just the info I needed :)