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View Full Version : What To Do When Barrel Bottoms Out In Receiver?


larphred
April 03, 2002, 16:42
It seems like the consensus is to relieve the seating shoulder in the receiver with ye olde dremel. It would add a bit of precision to chuck the barrel up in lathe and remove a few thousandths from the breech face of the barrel. But is that an option? I don't think it would adversely affect headspace, would it. Are there geometries at work here that I just don't understand? A little help please. Thanks.

W.E.G.
April 03, 2002, 17:00
Always grind the cheapest part. - GP

The barrel is cheaper by far. I'd take ye olde file to the apex of the breechface of the barrel until the interference aint interfering no mo'. You do NOT need to file across the entire breechface area. Just the apex (that's the corner of the ass-end of the barrel to us simple folk).

I dremeled a receiver once. It was truly an adventure. I can't recommend the method.

Snakeshot
April 03, 2002, 17:18
How's about a breaching washer?
Shims do have advantages.

rwwje
April 03, 2002, 19:04
Can't use a breaching washer on metric gun no where, no time (unless you take 0.062" or so off the shoulder and you will only be back where you started). On inch guns, the breaching washer (of slightly varying thicknesses) is used to time the barrel. If you contact the receiver face before TDC, you must relieve the barrel breach face as noted above.

Snakeshot
April 03, 2002, 19:18
rwwje,
You can, although it would be unusual.
My thought was inch barrel on metric receiver or metric barrel on some goofy a$$ receiver.

Details would help. ;)

rwwje
April 03, 2002, 22:52
Snakeshot:
10-4 on the inch barrel/metric combo since the correct thickness breaching washer would be needed to properly time the barrel to TDC (breaching washers are one 360 degree turn -1/16" or 16 TPI - of the barrel, plus or minus, to allow adjustment for proper timing without shaving/peening the barrel shoulder). :)

larphred
April 03, 2002, 23:49
Thanks guys. It is an inch barrel on an inch receiver. I was concerned with interference between the breech face on the barrel and the receiver shoulder so I removed the breeching washer and tried to hand tighten it w/out the washer. I figured without the washer it should screw on to at least 12 o'clock. But the barrel breech stopped in the receiver about 11:30. My only concern with removing material from the breech end of the barrel is leaving a few thousandths of the casing "unprotected" during ignition. But if gary thinks its okay, I'll go with it.

acr@work
April 04, 2002, 13:12
I recently had to do the same thing to a kit I put together. I used a small cut off disc that I made smaller by cutting some thick metal and some small sanding discs. I also took a little off of the barrel with a file to make things "just right". The edge of the chamber does not end flush with the breech end of the barrel. It has an agle cut area that makes the chamber sort of "countersunk" for lack of a better word or a picture. Removing a little from the barrel will not leave more of the case sticking out. I think Mr. Jeter also was stating that you did not need to remove metal from the whole breech face, just around the edge of it where it contacts the receiver.

rwwje
April 04, 2002, 13:16
With breach contact at 11:30 (15 degrees from TDC), you would need to remove 0.0026" from the breach face to allow timing to TDC.