View Full Version : Silver Solder Recommendation
February 22, 2001, 21:12
I am about to try to silver solder for the first time, any hints or tricks ? is the heat needed going to be so high as to fry the surrounding parkerizing ? do i need a special mix to keep the batf happy ? Do i heat , solder the threads and then screw the brake on real fast ?
[ September 10, 2001: Message edited by: gary.jeter ]
February 22, 2001, 22:54
Yes I've been curious of that.I am told the A/C type (15%silver) is excellent.Do you allow the barrel to cool naturally or quench it?What if any finish will it take or is it necessary.Prep work? Treatment prior to or after heating?
February 22, 2001, 23:04
Get the paste from brownells. I think you must have a certain melting point to be legal.Regular silver solder will not do. I done 3 and all you do is heat the brake till its a little red all around and let it cool.
February 23, 2001, 03:47
1,100 degrees minimum melting point by BATFags ruling. Fusion paste solder from Brownell's meets and exceeds that standard.
["Come and get them"]
- Leonidas to Xerxes at the Battle of Thermopylae when
told to lay down their arms and they would be spared.
February 23, 2001, 11:22
[ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: sixplusone ]
February 23, 2001, 12:10
I bought a canister of Brownell's Silver Fusion Paste. Worked well. The instructions I got off this board said the canister was good for 10 uses and was messy. Well I suppose if you divided the canister up into 10 equal portions and used that amount on your rifle, you have a mess too. I just put a little on a screwdriver blade and mushed it onto the barrel threads evenly, removed the excess, screwed on the muzzle brake, hung it from the garage door opener with a coat hanger with the muzzle down and torched the thread area with a can of MAPP gas. I got a lot of paste left, eMail me if you want to make a deal...
OK Sarge, I volunteer to throw the demolition pack on the back of that tank, you run out front and get it's attention...
February 23, 2001, 14:50
As an added note: The two brakes I put on had different finishes, the first had a lite blueing and was noticably discolored afterward (no quenching, might do bad things to the barrel) the second was new park and had no visual change after it cooled. I suppose if you torched it with the brake up, the solder would run down the barrel, but with the brake down it gets trapped in the brake.
February 23, 2001, 21:02
1: Clean all surfaces of parkerising. Surfaces must be metal to metal and clean and dry.
2: You must use MAPP Gass and get barrel to where it just starts to get red. The flux will get dry then get fluid and clear. When the flux gets clear and fluid thats when the temp is correct.
3: Let barrel cool naturally. Rince all parts off with water and dry in a 200 degree oven.
4: Good luck......I have silver soldered many times at work and it is not easy. It gets the barrel too hot. I would get it spot welded on the bottom.
Improvise, Adapt, Overcome.....
My Opinion.......MK ULTRA......OUT
February 24, 2001, 09:04
The Brownells' fusion paste works very well. I simply wire wheeled the finish off the barrel and out of the brake so it was bare metal,coated the barrel threads with enough paste to cover the threads but not so much as to make a mess, indexed my brake, positioned my barrel so it angled down, heated with mapp gas until it glowed a dull red, let cool, and it was a done deal. I used some of their heat control paste and it worked nicely but was probably over kill. I bead blasted it back to the barrel band and reparked the end of it and it was better than new.
February 24, 2001, 18:02
Rule .308 I like the Heat dam idea. I've silver soldered a ton of saw blades 3/4 " ..
Clean of all oil. Heat with torch in a circular path a'round the Bbl. heat evenly and especially very slowly; you want 1100 deg. all around not 1300 on one side. I was using 85% or something. Watch the flux clears , then almost glows... try two mild steel tests first, pry apart when done; (with test). G Luck
February 25, 2001, 04:37
Does the silver solder get liquid enough as to run all over, or does it contain itself? How can you remove excess that may endup elsewhere?
September 10, 2001, 20:37
moved to FAQ
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